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Only thing I use my 1300 foot pound Thor 1/2" drive impact for is loosening, never tightening. What I have a Snap on and Icon Torque wrenches for. Worse thing you can do to aluminum wheels is use an impact wrench to tighten lug nuts.
 

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Don't know how a torque wrench comment got into this thread.

Get rid of that 15w40 goo in your crankcases. 10w30 with be much better and will operate at any outside temperature since it is operating, even in winter, against 190 F coolant temperature set by your thermostat. If in really cold places, use 0w30. I use it mainly because I know it will be pure PAO source M1 and not a Group III oil blended in.
 

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Don't know how a torque wrench comment got into this thread.

Get rid of that 15w40 goo in your crankcases. 10w30 with be much better and will operate at any outside temperature since it is operating, even in winter, against 190 F coolant temperature set by your thermostat. If in really cold places, use 0w30. I use it mainly because I know it will be pure PAO source M1 and not a Group III oil blended in.
Torque wrench became involved in this thread similar to your mentioning 190°F coolant temperatures that has ZERO/NADA to do with ability/inability to start an engine due to ""sub-freezing temperatures""!! I guess you're going to keep changing subject matter rather than """filling in the blanks on your equation""' proving or disproving your 60-80% faster cranking speed from utilizing 10W vs 15W oil
 

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It's my contention that automotive manufacturers went to lighter (initial viscosity) motor oil because of it's cold flowability and the complex valve actuation mechanisms in modern auto's today. Variable valve timing requires the use of better cold flow of lubricant to actuate the various mechanical and electronic servo's that control the timing plus a lower initial viscosity improves cold weather crank speed which gasoline engines require more than a diesel, especially when the combustion chamber has a pre heat device (glow plug) or a manifold pre heater installed.

I don't consider 15-40 or straight weight oil to be goo, and never will. I find that term flies in the face of what is correct. I really care much what the op puts in his crankcase, far as I'm concerned he could run 90 weight gear oil. To me, the term 'goo' applies to chassis grease, not motor oil. Very bad choice of words.
 

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Torque wrench became involved in this thread similar to your mentioning 190°F coolant temperatures that has ZERO/NADA to do with ability/inability to start an engine due to ""sub-freezing temperatures""!! I guess you're going to keep changing subject matter rather than """filling in the blanks on your equation""' proving or disproving your 60-80% faster cranking speed from utilizing 10W vs 15W oil
The guys not completely FOS.... Detroit has been going with FA-4 10w30 as the factory fill oil since early 2017. Supposedly, 1%-2% better fuel economy and a 75,000 mile drain interval in “Efficient Long-Haul” OTR applications. That's huge $$$ for the big line haul fleets, but probably doesn't do a whole lot for a guy just trying to start his Ag tractor, to plow snow, at -10

DDA FA-4 Factory Fill Oil
 

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Bob
Maybe rtsdad is correct BUT just because I asked for FACTS that the next lighter weight engine oil causes engine to start 60%-80% faster & he supplies no real facts BUT instead supplies a SMOKE SCREEN MAKES ME WONDER.
 

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Bob
Maybe rtsdad is correct BUT just because I asked for FACTS that the next lighter weight engine oil causes engine to start 60%-80% faster & he supplies no real facts BUT instead supplies a SMOKE SCREEN MAKES ME WONDER.
I can't give you "facts" per say but.
My Branson 8050 with the power shuttle trans would not start in below zero F temps.
The starter would crank the engine over about a half of a revolution and just stop, booster packs, jumpers all made no difference.
The only way that tractor would start on below0F days was to put the salamander heater right up behind it with a tarp on the hood going to the ground
as a tent. After an hour she would start fine.

I did two things at once so who is to say which was the most important.
I removed the factory hydraulic/transmission fluid and filled it with Cen-Pe-Co multi purpose fluid.
I drained the engine oil and replaced it with T6 5W-40. After these changes she started fine the oil pressure light goes out quicker.
This was 6 years ago and to this day she is running on those types and brands of fluids.
It cranks over much easier and faster and has done so since they were installed.
I also use the T6 5W-40 in my IH574, and Kubota F2000, and even in my small engines.
I also used it in my RAM Eco-Diesel PU.
 

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Bob
Maybe rtsdad is correct BUT just because I asked for FACTS that the next lighter weight engine oil causes engine to start 60%-80% faster & he supplies no real facts BUT instead supplies a SMOKE SCREEN MAKES ME WONDER.
Understand your point and you see it all the time on this forum.... I call it a "Baffle 'em with BS" post. I learned a long time ago that Engineers will head down that path when they feel their expensive diploma is being challenged, it's just human nature. FA-4 is backwards compatible to EPA 2010 engines, but that doesn't mean anything to most of the guys on here that are actually running older engines. With only 10 post to this forum, he's not "reading the crowd" yet. I pay more attention to the lawn mower section where there are far more questions/problems about mid-90's engines, rather than late model water-cooled EFI engines. I just join in the discussions about OIL for entertainment, because I know there is about to be a whole lot of BS flying around until Pogo Bill breaks it up and I wouldn't want to disappoint him by not being in the crowd.:cool:
 

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I realize starting fluid has it's place if utilized as designed. Over my 21 yrs of employment at a tractor dealership serving over half of those yrs as a service momager I've witnessed a lot starter fluid use abuse. Then in my last 30 yrs of custom farming I witnessed more starter fluid abuse helping my neighbors get engines to start operating. I shuddered last yr watching my neighbor spray starting fluid into an open air cleaner housing to keep engine running instead of correctly bleeding air out of fuel system.
Ether should never be used on a diesel with glow plugs unless you have a way to disable them...........
 

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Don't know how a torque wrench comment got into this thread.

Get rid of that 15w40 goo in your crankcases. 10w30 with be much better and will operate at any outside temperature since it is operating, even in winter, against 190 F coolant temperature set by your thermostat. If in really cold places, use 0w30. I use it mainly because I know it will be pure PAO source M1 and not a Group III oil blended in.

Then knock yourself out, Junior..............I will keep using my "goo" like I have for years in my over the road semi and my tractors..............
 
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