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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Farmall Super A. Last night I was discussing a project with my father-in-law. I started up the tractor and moved the hydraulic control levers and one arm slowly went to about 1/2 travel and then nothing much else happened. He thought it was probably due to the type fluid used and the temperature, which was around zero degrees fahrenheit. Not sure what kind of fluid is in it. Feasible? If the fluid is "too thick" to flow at low temps, could it damage any parts by moving the levers and trying to make things move?
 

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My suspicion is that there is water (condensation) in your hydraulic oil and it caused a blockage somewhere in the sytem. (usually the filter) If possible, try moving the tractor to a sheltered preferrabley heated location and let thing thaw out. Might be time for a fluid change. I would not run the tractor while it is exhibiting this problem at least the very minimum to move it as the hydraulic pump could possibly be being starved for hyd. oil and this could possibly cause damage to it. You may want to consider a cold weather suited trans./hyd. fluid such as Chevron All Weather Synthetic Trans./Hyd. Fluid. (THF)



Chevron Sythetic THF

or Shell Donax TD

Shell Donax® TD Donax TD Low Vis

A money saving tip here.............Walmart Super Tech Tractor Hydraulic and Transmission Oil is made for Walmart by Shell. (Specialty Oil Company who is owned by Pennzoil, who is owned by Shell)

I would recommend changing the trans./hyd. filter as well.
 

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:ditto: to what Cheif said, and could possibly be to thick oil. The super A is supposed to use CASEIH "hy-tran" oil. It wil only take a small amount, so if you have a dealer nearby it's worth while to spring for the real deal.;) The filter is a metal screen type, wash it in kerosene or varsol or whatever, and be CAREFUL, the thing is some where between $50-$100 to replace!!:eek:mg:
 

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I ran the Walmart trans./hyd. oil in my Cub 154 Lo Boy for over 10 years and didn't have any problems but then I kept it stored in a heated basement garage in the winter. Mine also called for Hy-Tran. It is always best to stick with the OEM specified oil if reasonably possible or an authorized substitute.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just so happens I do have a Case-IH dealer right here in town. Lucky for me!! =:O
I think the first thing I will do tonight is to actually open up the plug to check the fluid level and take a small sample. The book says that if it is milky looking, it is probably contaminated. What color is IH Touch-Control fluid? Is it clear, oil or red colored? Not knowing what may have been put in there in the past, is it OK to replace with Touch-Control fluid if the system maybe had something else such as red hydraulic fluid in it? If that is the case, I think (per the manual) that I should only flush the system out with Touch-Control fluid. Maybe this would take a few runs with the fluid and then refill with the proper amount of Touch-Control fluid?
 

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IH touch control fluid would have been red, but is no longer availlable by that name, it's replacement is the CASEIH "hy-tran" fluid.;) If it's milky, that means that it got water in it.
I would say that the flushing method you described would work fine. Once it is flushed and drained you'll have to "prime" the system, or bleed the air out. There are some small allen head screws in the metal lines where they attach to the hydraulic unit, and I think at the pump end too. Take the plugs out until fluid flows out of the plugs before starting the engine, cycle the hydraulics a few times, then check your level again.
Good luck, hope it all works out OK for ya!!:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got 'er done

I got the hydraulic system fluid changed out, new filter and we're up and running. Still might have a tiny bit of air to get out of the system, but we're basically good to go. Thanks to all for the help!

Scott
 
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