[markfnc]

I am looking at 7 1/4" 15 amp circular saws. I will be building a wood play set, and a 12 x 16 storage bulding. Craftsman professional $109, Porter Cable $109, Milwaukee $139. I have seen the Milwaukee rated best. Is it really the best, or is the extra $30 worth it? The Sears guy said he did not like the deck on the Porter Cable (Magnesum??) and it could break easier.

What do you all think?

 

[guest]

i got a milwakee golden anniversary saw a few years back at walmart.. its a pretty good saw, heavy duty works well, feels good in your hand and made in the US..

no complaints..

 

[Chris]

I have been using a Milwaukee circular saw and drill for a while now. The drill was the holeshooter 1/2" ----- works well.

Thanks,
Andy

 

[jodyand]

I have a old black and decker thats about 30 years old. I had to make a new bushing for it a few years back. But it works like new again.

 

[Stewart]

I think I would take a hard look at the Porter Cable, I don't know much about Milwaukee stuff. I have used the skill worm drive saws quite a bit and they are good saws with lots of power but not cheap! Best of luck, you might want to check some of the woodworking forums and see what you can find.:truth:

 

[bontai Joe]

The Sears saw would be my last choice on your list. I usually have pretty good luck with Sears power tools, but not their circular saws. The Milwaukee saw is a top notch unit rated for pro use. The Porter Cable saw is also a great saw. Which ever one of those two that feels best in your hand, and easier to change blades on, and accepts a fence for long rip cuts would be my choice.

 

[Chris]

Good advice --- I like the Milwaukee stuff....

edro:
Jose approved.

 

[leolav]

If you will be regularly cutting heavy duty stuff like landscaping timbers or metal, I would go with the milwaukee worm drive saw. Much more torque and a generally heavy duty saw.

 

[Argee]

Take a look at Makita's 15 amp saw. Their 13 amp units are the staple of jobsights all over the midwest. I own two 13 amp units I used when I was contracting. Tough saws.

 

[Ingersoll444]

I will be looking soon also, keep up with the input.

Right now I have a cheapy Sears low end saw. It still works,[wish it would break down] but is noisy, rattly, the gide works hard,[unless you hold it up the cut skews] just don;t like it. Now the worm drive saws, the blades on the other stide of the motor right? Like a left handed saw? How long does it take to get used to that?

 

[leolav]

Not on all the worm drive saws. I have one that has it on the traditional right hand side. Normally, you can tell its a worm drive as the handle is up high and it starts off fairly slow and speeds up quickly.

 

[leolav]

Almost forgot, it doesn't take much getting used to the blade being on the other side of the saw. Our worm saw with it on the right side is an older Milwaukee. I think they are all left blade style now. Kinda make me wonder why.

 

[Live Oak]

I went with a Skill 5700-05 7-1/4" 2.6 HP Circular Saw with Site Light Skil 5700-05 7-1/4" 2.6 HP Circular Saw with Site Light and purchased the Diablo D0740X 7-1/4"x 40-Tooth Carded ATB Finishing Blade with it.

This is not a top of the line saw, but for the $70 price I paid for it and that Diablo blade; it cuts and does the job superbly. It even came with a nice carrying case with a place for spare blades in the bottom. A great saw for the novice (i.e. me ) or the someone looking for a great saw for the money.

Here is a a review of a very similar model that is one step down from this one. Pretty much the same saw Skil 2.5HP Accu-Sight Circular Saw 5600

 

[leolav]

The Diablo is a great blade. I have a nice set of them on my different saws. Can't beat their quality.

I use Freud in all my saws. They are one of the better blades on the market.

 

[Live Oak]

I was REALLY impressed with how much easier it was to cut with and the smoothness of the finish with the Freud blades. It went through 3/4" plywood like butter.

 

[Stewart]

They say the blade will make the saw!

The way I understand saws is most saws have the motor on the right side and the blade on the left. That is so that there is more of the shoe on the material and it is more accurate. These are right handed saws. Left handed saws are just the opposite. I am right handed and it seems odd to me to not hold material with my left hand and the saw in the right. I learned on Skill worm drive saws and that is what is most comfortable. They are expensive and heavy but are built tough and will last a long time. I think you will have a hard time finding a more powerfull saw as well. This is one of the saws I was loking at
http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=4942

or

http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=91334-000000353-HD77

 

[bontai Joe]

Stewart is right in saying the blade is very important to the quality of cut. I 2 cents is look for quality carbide toothed blades that are thinner than the cheaper blades. A thinner blade means less wood removed per length of cut, which = less power needed to make a cut, which = a perceived increase in the saw's power. Makita used to make decent thin general purpose carbide blades. It has been so long since I have had to buy a blade, that I am not current on what is out there.

 

[Argee]

Best blade for the $ Irwin/Marathon

 

[Stewart]

Woops wrong spot!:smoking:

 

[Live Oak]

You wouldn't think so but I have found in many cases that Amazon.com has had the best prices on MANY items like this when you factor in the free shipping and no sales tax. I have had very good experiences with them so far. The reviews that people post on items I have found to be really helpful as well.