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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My dealer tells me definitely not to put chains on my DK hydrostatic; will put undue strain on the transfer case. Now I have heard not to put them on the front, but my intention was only on the rear: have 14.9 x 24 industrials. I've had chains on a lot of things over the years - old automatic 4-wheel drive Chevys, 1971 Cub Cadet hydrostatic, plus other things with geared transmissions. Never had a problem. I find it hard to believe that this DK is that delicate. What if I, like a lot of folks, just hang a bunch of weight on the back for traction - is this asking for trouble, too? I've got a situation where my lane has a steep part that gets icy, and chains from my experience help out a lot. I know the industrials aren't the ideal here, and I guess I can live with it, but I'm kind of disappointed. Maybe the dealer just doesn't want to risk a warranty hassle.
 

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I have heard that argument of chains on the front axle before.
Also you don't have a transfer case in a tractor you will have an output shaft for the front axle,
which is after your range transmission, which is after your hydrostatic transmission.
Chains on the rear axle certainly would not effect your front drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have heard that argument of chains on the front axle before.
Also you don't have a transfer case in a tractor you will have an output shaft for the front axle,
which is after your range transmission, which is after your hydrostatic transmission.
Chains on the rear axle certainly would not effect your front drive.
Well, assuming I just put chains on the back - which again from my experience should make all the difference on ice - what do you think the weak link is here that they're afraid of? I don't tend to hammer things too hard, but if there is some technical/mechanical reason not to "stress" something, I'll respect that. But again, this is a tractor not a golf cart. Do you think this dealer advice would be applicable to all brands in this marketing slot - Kubota, Mahindra, Massey, Deere, etc?
 

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The problem I found with chains on the front is that they don't stay on well. The torque thing...no way. You can load up a loader heavy so that the rear is floating and push hard. How could chains ever put more torque on the transfer case than that?
 

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My dealer tells me definitely not to put chains on my DK hydrostatic; will put undue strain on the transfer case. Now I have heard not to put them on the front, but my intention was only on the rear: have 14.9 x 24 industrials. I've had chains on a lot of things over the years - old automatic 4-wheel drive Chevys, 1971 Cub Cadet hydrostatic, plus other things with geared transmissions. Never had a problem. I find it hard to believe that this DK is that delicate. What if I, like a lot of folks, just hang a bunch of weight on the back for traction - is this asking for trouble, too? I've got a situation where my lane has a steep part that gets icy, and chains from my experience help out a lot. I know the industrials aren't the ideal here, and I guess I can live with it, but I'm kind of disappointed. Maybe the dealer just doesn't want to risk a warranty hassle.
I see no problem with running chains on the rear. The only situation where you have to potential to do damage would be if you have the rear diff locked up (stepping on the lever) and making a hard turn. Could bind the rear diff and cause an axle to snap. But the results would be no different than operating your R4 tires on pavement and locking the rear diff and turning sharply. You just wouldn't do it, no need to. Chains on the front are more of a problem due to the excessive vibration being transmitted back through the steering linkage, causing premature wear. If you have to run chains on the front, try to find hardened cable chains which will greatly reduce the jarring effect. All that being said, go for it dude.. R4's on ice on a hill?
 

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Never put them on the rear but then my tractors are a lot heavier than the op's anyway. The only reason I chain the front is to mitigate plow steer. As you can see. I run a big front plow.. It's 10 feet wide straight on and angled, about 8 feet. No need for rear chains at all, just front.
 

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Far as rear chains and locking the rear diff, I don't see that happening actually, but then my axles are substantially larger. Come to think about it, I've never locked the rear when plowing or blowing. I have the capability of locking both the front and the rear if necessary. I rarely do and not when removing snow. I have when yanking stumps out or dirt work.
 

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I run rear chains all winter the Branson 8050 tips the scale at a bit over 10,000 pounds, the IH 574 is a light weight a bit under 5000 Pounds.
Wheel Tire Snow Vehicle Tractor


Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting


I do have a set of front chains for the Branson as well I seldom run them unless we have a major ice problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had a Massey 275 with chains; I think that tractor came in at about 6500#. Looked to be about the same setup as your 574. It worked out well. Want kind of the same advantage in my DK - I can do without chains in front.
 

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In my case, one, it's basically flat here so no hills to deal with and with the huge snow plow, plow steer becomes an issue so the front chains mitigate that. Been times here it's so deep I have to turn around and use the blower instead. I don't want the plow controlling where I'm going. I will say one thing and that is, takes a lot of fuel to move snow. Way more than I use running hay and the blower can make the M9 blow smoke at times too. It uses every bit of the 85 horses I have available.
 

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I've been running chains on all 4 wheels on my Kioti DK 35 every winter plowing snow for the past 20 years. No issues (gear drive with 9' snowplow)
 

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I have not ever ran chains on my Kioti but I would not bat an eye to do it if I had to.....Not sure where the dealer is coming from on this but I would ask him to show you where in the warranty that it will void it if you do.....If he can't show you it in writing then run them.....
 

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I have a PX 1153 and run them all on 4 tires filled wth Rim Guard. I'm just over 14,000 lbs and spin going up my driveway...No problems.
I do wish I had more clearance on the rear fender though, sometimes they "Tick" when the chains move.
 

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I have a PX 1153 and run them all on 4 tires filled wth Rim Guard. I'm just over 14,000 lbs and spin going up my driveway...No problems.
I do wish I had more clearance on the rear fender though, sometimes they "Tick" when the chains move.
What type of chain are you running that you are chewing going up your driveway?
 

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It's a shame you didn't try some of the Euro studded chains, they are simply amazing at how much better they grip.
My driveway is between 14 and 16 degrees of slope or close to 25% I have used almost every chain style over the years.
My last set of "conventional" chains was a set of two link spaced V bar reinforced and while they worked that tractor would slip and chew it's way
up the driveway in 3rd or a higher gear, lower gears on snow pack or ice it would chew down to the dirt move a couple inches
and chew down again and repeat. I got my first set of the "Euro" style chains and that tractor could stop and backup on the same spots
the others couldn't even stop on without the blade or bucket down and digging in.
Wheel Tire Snow Vehicle Automotive tire


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Snow Tread


Tire Snow Wheel Automotive tire Automotive lighting


The duo grips ride rougher and get much less traction in my experience.

Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Tread
 

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I saw those, big money for those chains. I'll see how it goes this Summer and maybe get a set for the rears later on.
In that picture of my driveway, that was taken at the first turn. From there I go down the hill and backup the other side into the fog, at the top I go left and go up a bunch more.
 
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