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Bolens G154/IsekiTX1300f
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So electrical is not my strong part but I have a multimeter and know enough to be dangerous. Battery is in good shape takes a charge and load tests fine. When I charge it up the tractor fires right up. Checking at the battery posts when running its showing 12 volts, so there is no charging happening. The plug on the back of the Alt was in bad shape, broken and sun burnt. I put new connectors on. Still the same, no charge. with it running I pulled the connector off the back of the Alt and checked the battery spade, at idle it’s showing 14 volts. Ok now what to check? I looked at the wiring diagram and it looks like the only other thing in the line back to battery would be the key switch. i cleaned all the other connections from the Alt to starter with no change. The key switch has three positions, on/lights/lights and in any of these positions the battery shows no charging. Where do I go From here. Thanks in advance.
 

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Does the alternator only have 2 wires, one from the battery and one from the key ?

If yes start the motor, touch the wire that goes to the key from the alternator to the battery wire then test if it is charging.

(That is you are joining the alternator wire the the battery not the switch wire to the battery)

You will normally hear the alternator start to squeal if it's charging.
 

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Looking at the schematic it's simple: battery + goes to starter (B) from there to generator output. Running if you measure 14v at this generator output terminal and only 12v at battery then either wire is bad or corrosion at starter. It's a simple circuit.
Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Engineering


Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk
 

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He talks of a alternator not a generator as in the .schematic.

A 2 wire alternator needs a battery wire and a power wire to excite it.
It is an alternator in the diagram. Those connections points to a Japanese origin, Hitachi or Denso for instance.

An alternator is a generator, just like a dynamo is a generator. They all generate electric energy. It would be more handy to use the terms AC-generator and DC-generator, but languages develop in their own
ways.

*** Edit
Misspelled.
***
 

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Bolens G154/IsekiTX1300f
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Does the alternator only have 2 wires, one from the battery and one from the key ?

If yes start the motor, touch the wire that goes to the key from the alternator to the battery wire then test if it is charging.

(That is you are joining the alternator wire the the battery not the switch wire to the battery)

You will normally hear the alternator start to squeal if it's charging.
The Alt has four wires going to the harness, battery/warning lamp/neutral/field then it has the wire going to the starter
 

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Bolens G154/IsekiTX1300f
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looking at the schematic it's simple: battery + goes to starter (B) from there to generator output. Running if you measure 14v at this generator output terminal and only 12v at battery then either wire is bad or corrosion at starter. It's a simple circuit. View attachment 83399

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk
I will check again this evening but I think that was only showing 12v when running
 

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Bolens G154/IsekiTX1300f
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It is an alternator in the diagram. Those connections points to a Japanese origin, Hitachi or Denso for instance.

An alternator is a generator, just like a dynamo is a generator. They all generate electric energy. It would be more handy to use the terms AC-generator and DC-generator, but languages develop in their own
ways.

*** Edit
Misspelled.
***
correct it has a Mitsubishi k70 engine
 

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I am a newbie (to say the least) around this type of alternators. One thing, though; You measured the voltage at the "B"-post and got 14 V, but that was with the battery cable disconnected?

If you do the same test with the battery cable connected to the "B"-post and get 14 V, or at least higher than the battery voltage at the same time, as said, the wiring is a culprit. Apart from the battery (+) wires, check that the alternator housing is grounded properly (no major voltage drop between housing and battery (-)).

I found this, it looks reliable. Hope it helps:
 

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Is there an external voltage regulator? Looks like it from the wiring diagram . I the main power cable goes to the field coils .The armature is made hot by a separate hot lead .That lead is intermittent and controlled by the regulator or internal diods.You have a break down in regulator function. The armature and field coils are making electricty .The regulator is not sending the electricty to the main hot wire that charges the battery. With the battery fully charged remove your positive cable . Pull the positive cable and touch it back to the post listen and look for a spark .should not be any .With the positive cable disconnected. Use the ohm meter touch postive lead to the cable .Touch the ground lead to the ground cable on the battery .There should be no reading .If there is and your experiencing dead battery after it sits a while .Then you have something burned out or broken in the regulator or internaly in the alternator. Always heard you should not pull the battery cable when the alternator has a electronic regulator .Pull the alternator take it to autozone or orlieys get them to test it .it's free .
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I had some time today. Fully charged battery, hit the glow plugs and it fired right up. It was about 50 degrees outside. Checked the B terminal and after using sand paper on the end it’s showing 12 maybe 12.5 depending how accurate my multimeter is. Does this mean an internal problem with Alt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Is there an external voltage regulator? Looks like it from the wiring diagram . I the main power cable goes to the field coils .The armature is made hot by a separate hot lead .That lead is intermittent and controlled by the regulator or internal diods.You have a break down in regulator function. The armature and field coils are making electricty .The regulator is not sending the electricty to the main hot wire that charges the battery. With the battery fully charged remove your positive cable . Pull the positive cable and touch it back to the post listen and look for a spark .should not be any .With the positive cable disconnected. Use the ohm meter touch postive lead to the cable .Touch the ground lead to the ground cable on the battery .There should be no reading .If there is and your experiencing dead battery after it sits a while .Then you have something burned out or broken in the regulator or internaly in the alternator. Always heard you should not pull the battery cable when the alternator has a electronic regulator .Pull the alternator take it to autozone or orlieys get them to test it .it's free .
Yes external voltage regulator. I’ll perform this test tomorrow. Thank you
 
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