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9N front with an 8N rear
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think I cooked my starter... Well done.
Due to a carb problem, I cranked my motor too much, I think. Last time I cranked it, it cranked normal then slower and slower until it stopped turning. Thinking I wore the battery down, I charged it up, Ioad tested it and attempted to crank it again and... Nothing, no click, no nothing. Today I by passed everything and used jumper cables direct from battery to starter, again nothing not even a spark when touching the + connecter on the starter. That tells me that the starter/Bendix isn't jammed, I think. I even tried giving the starter a few whacks with a hammer, still nothing.
I do plan on taking it off and bench testing it, but I'm not very hopeful.

Any thoughts before I replace the starter?
.
 

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That don't sound good.

To further confirm this......Is your tractor 12V converted?

Starter can be a bit tricky to remove on some.

Theres a chance it just cooked a brush or 2 or they are stuck......but most likely the armature is smoked.
 

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9N front with an 8N rear
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If it has the inspection band, remove and have a smell and a look at the brushes/armature, sure as eggs, sounds like it is cooked, but could be stuck brushes as thedukes has said.
Yes it is 12v converted.
That don't sound good.

To further confirm this......Is your tractor 12V converted?

Starter can be a bit tricky to remove on some.

Theres a chance it just cooked a brush or 2 or they are stuck......but most likely the armature is smoked.
Yes it is 12v converted.
That don't sound good.

To further confirm this......Is your tractor 12V converted?

Starter can be a bit tricky to remove on some.

Theres a chance it just cooked a brush or 2 or they are stuck......but most likely the armature is smoked.
Yes it is 12v.
 

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9N front with an 8N rear
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If it has the inspection band, remove and have a smell and a look at the brushes/armature, sure as eggs, sounds like it is cooked, but could be stuck brushes as thedukes has said.
What/where is this inspection band you speak of?
There is only the cap at the end of the starter, where the through bolts are.
 

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Some will have a 1" wide band at the rear.......which would be the forward end of starter as its bolted on.
Band will be painted most likely and the screw to loosen it is probly on the bottom or back.
Composite material Auto part Metal Fashion accessory Personal protective equipment



The Band if yours has it covers the area that would look similar to this where the brushes are.

Automotive lighting Chair Fashion accessory Auto part Rectangle
 

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9N front with an 8N rear
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Some will have a 1" wide band at the rear.......which would be the forward end of starter as its bolted on.
Band will be painted most likely and the screw to loosen it is probly on the bottom or back.
View attachment 84482


The Band if yours has it covers the area that would look similar to this where the brushes are.

View attachment 84483
Next time I'm out in the barn I'll check. Thanks!
Some will have a 1" wide band at the rear.......which would be the forward end of starter as its bolted on.
Band will be painted most likely and the screw to loosen it is probly on the bottom or back.
View attachment 84482


The Band if yours has it covers the area that would look similar to this where the brushes are.

View attachment 84483
Some will have a 1" wide band at the rear.......which would be the forward end of starter as its bolted on.
Band will be painted most likely and the screw to loosen it is probly on the bottom or back.
View attachment 84482


The Band if yours has it covers the area that would look similar to this where the brushes are.

View attachment 84483
Next time I get out to the barn, I'll check. Thanks!
 

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Oh Bob! Not sounding too good there.

As a possibility - there are still some of the old starter and generator rebuild shops around (I found one sort of locally in Northern Idaho). Wherever you are it might be a thing to try - so do a web search and see.

IF there is one you might wish to take it to them and see what a specialist might say. Those guys used to be able to do a complete refurbish job and if there is one around that might be just the ticket. If that works out for you then you'll have another 80 years on the refurbish job - always a good thing.

Dukes --- thanks for the info on the band. I just checked out Sally's starter and it was there for all to see. Never too old to learn.

Joe and Sally (SN: 13030)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh Bob! Not sounding too good there.

As a possibility - there are still some of the old starter and generator rebuild businesses around (I found one sort of locally in Northern Idaho). Wherever you are it might be a thing to try - so do a web search and see. IF there is one you might wish to take it to them and see what a specialist might say. Those guys used to be able to completely refurbish them and if there is one around that might be just the ticket. If that works out for you then you'll have another 80 years on the refurbish job - always a good thing.

Dukes --- thanks for the info on the band. I just checked out Sally's starter and it was there for all to see.

Joe and Sally (SN: 13030)
Hi again,
Pulled the starter today, what a stink! Definitely burned the armature. One of the 4 brushes was welded to the armature there wasn't much surface left for the brushes to contact. There was very little left of the other 3 brushes.
Glad I found it now while I'm working on it.
Bendix looks great. I'll just keep this one for parts after I check with a local rebuilder. I don't have much hope it can be rebuilt at a reasonable price, but you never know.
Bob
.
 

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Oh Bob! Not sounding too good there.

As a possibility - there are still some of the old starter and generator rebuild shops around (I found one sort of locally in Northern Idaho). Wherever you are it might be a thing to try - so do a web search and see.

IF there is one you might wish to take it to them and see what a specialist might say. Those guys used to be able to do a complete refurbish job and if there is one around that might be just the ticket. If that works out for you then you'll have another 80 years on the refurbish job - always a good thing.

Dukes --- thanks for the info on the band. I just checked out Sally's starter and it was there for all to see. Never too old to learn.

Joe and Sally (SN: 13030)
It was mostly common for the older starters to have an inspection band and to enable the removal and replacement of the brushes and springs when dismantling and re-assembling.
 

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On the old Dresser, I found a new starter for about 1/4 of the price of a local rebuild...turns out the new one had flange on the solenoid that prevented installation, and of course it wasn't very obvious until I failed to get the mounting holes to line up for a hour or two. They said "mail it back and we'll refund your money" of course that would net me something less than $20 given that I don't have a major shipping account. I ended up getting a charge back on the CC eventually. The local shop rebuilt it pretty quickly and the rebuild has outlasted 1 set of batteries so far. I'll not go cheap on a starter again.
 

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I think I cooked my starter... Well done.
Due to a carb problem, I cranked my motor too much, I think. Last time I cranked it, it cranked normal then slower and slower until it stopped turning. Thinking I wore the battery down, I charged it up, Ioad tested it and attempted to crank it again and... Nothing, no click, no nothing. Today I by passed everything and used jumper cables direct from battery to starter, again nothing not even a spark when touching the + connecter on the starter. That tells me that the starter/Bendix isn't jammed, I think. I even tried giving the starter a few whacks with a hammer, still nothing.
I do plan on taking it off and bench testing it, but I'm not very hopeful.

Any thoughts before I replace the starter?
.
Hi, as a ex starter & Alternator builder it sounds like you slung the leads out of the commutator, if you choose to get it built or a rebuilt one in a box the price is going to be around the same, I would google the starter and try on on Amazon & Ebay for the best price with shipping
 

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I do not know if this applies. I had a JD "A" years ago when the starter quit. Turned out to be the field coils. It had coils wound with square wire. The paper insulation between the windings had deteriorated. I procured some special insulation paper and carefully inserted it between the windings. Reassembled the starter, prayed, and it worked for the rest of the time I had it.
 

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Good morning, I have a 1950 8n that needed a starter, i removed it and took it to the local shop and they told me it would be cheaper to buy a new one than rebuild it. I did just that and it works great. Just my 2 cents. It pays to shop around the prices vary. Good luck!
 

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I do not know if this applies. I had a JD "A" years ago when the starter quit. Turned out to be the field coils. It had coils wound with square wire. The paper insulation between the windings had deteriorated. I procured some special insulation paper and carefully inserted it between the windings. Reassembled the starter, prayed, and it worked for the rest of the time I had it.
when the paper on the fields are bad the coils will short to ground. armatures and field coils & housings are considered hard parts, so it would go much easier on you to just get a rebuilt in a box on the shelf. most rebuilders will build your unit but the price is going to be pretty close to the one in the box on the shelf thats ready to go. when the armature overheats from over cranking or low battery voltage the armature gets hot enough to melt the solder that welds the segment windings to the commutator,thats called slinging the leads out, the starter drive getting caught in the flywheel on a running engine will also sling the leads out
 

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Good morning, I have a 1950 8n that needed a starter, i removed it and took it to the local shop and they told me it would be cheaper to buy a new one than rebuild it. I did just that and it works great. Just my 2 cents. It pays to shop around the prices vary. Good luck!
I guess it depends how easy it is to get to. I am guessing the Ford was drastically easier than the dozer, but I am firmly in the "once bitten twice shy" camp.
 

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I guess it depends how easy it is to get to. I am guessing the Ford was drastically easier than the dozer, but I am firmly in the "once bitten twice shy" camp.
I guess it depends how easy it is to get to. I am guessing the Ford was drastically easier than the dozer, but I am firmly in the "once bitten twice shy" camp.
The old Fords are very easy, out in the open and 2 bolts.
 
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