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ok folks -- today I went out to get an oil filter and 2 qts. of oil to do the 100 hour air filter/ oil/filter change-- on the JDL120-- the 2nd in command sales guy at the JD dealer [ which also does all set up anf warrenty work for the HD across the street] walks up to me to see if he can get me to buy the 32$ kit for tuneups -- I buy the air filter set - but NOt the kit-- I don't like the oil -- I have decided to but a stp oil filter and 2 qts. mobil 1 to see how that does-- this guy is the kind you cannot escape from at the dealer -- he beleievs that if he can talk long enough -- you will buy a new deere -- despite the fact that i know that the LT and L use tha same transaxle and many other parts-- he tells me that the LT will last forever and the L last only 3-5 years -- and how bad HD is as a sales place-- liars he says-- he trys to get me to trade UP to a new LT190 on the floor-- he says on an LT can pull aerator etc,. [ despite the Land LT having same tranny] he says only L110 with manual tranny can do any real work-- he then shows me how the intek Vtwin 20hp B&S engine in the L120[ on his showroom floor] doesn't really have FULL pressure lubrication-- it only says pressure lubrication-- he says lower engine and crank and filter are fully pressurized and rest of engine is a fan delivered spray-- pretty much at odds with what the scanty info at the B&S website says-- my point is do any of you have any links or spec info on this matter?-- bigl22
 

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Lower engine, crank and filter fully pressurized sound ok to me.
Most car engines only deliver oil to the mains and rod crankpin
Very few have oil hole drilled thru the rod so that wrist pins are
oiled under pressure. How was that supposed to differ from the
“Better” engine ?
 

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I would use the Deere filter. They are much better than the STP filter. They don't cost much more and are cheap insurance in my opinion. The oil is a matter of choice as long as it meets the B&S specs.
 

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I agree that you should not use a STP oil filter, unless it is specifically made for a L&G engine application. I have heard that L&G oil filters are different than filters used in automobile engines.
 

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They are the same you can look at the specks and you will see they are all the same. The only different is the cost and who's name goes on it.
 

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My understanding is that Fleetguard makes the filters for JD. They are about the best that can be had. The Deere filters are only a little bit more. I would stick with them.
 

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Well, Fleetguard makes all of the JD oil filters --- so in turn I agree with Jody in part. Find a good, high quality filter that meets exact specs, and doesn't negatively affect oil pressure and performance and you should be fine. There is no such thing as a perfect filter but in lieu of guessing and getting burned, I would go for the JD filter. I know I use Kohler brand filters on my GT5000 and I am happy to pay extra. I guess its that over the years, I have seen what kinds of problems can come from using aftermarket filters on some systems. Some have a double check valve system and some the aftermarkets didn't. They used cheapers filter material also. I just cant bring myself to chance it for just a couple dollars savings.

It is personal preference really. But rather be safe than sorry.

I truly believe you can find a good aftermarket filter but it may take some time and research. Above all else, don't buy a cheap
$1.99 filter. It is just not worth it.

:D
 

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In my case the Kawasaki PA540a engine on my F525 cost about $1500 to replace. I use the Deere filters. All filters are not made alike and in some cases using a filters that the manufacturer does not approve can void your warranty if anything lubrication related occurs such as with Dodge and the Cummins diesel. They have a list of approved oil filters and if you use anything else and something goes wrong lubrication related; the warranty is void.

Dodge TSB 09-004-01

Fram is one of those cheap filters that you don't want to use. There was an STP filter on my F525 when I purchased it and it is nowhere near as well manufactured as the Deere filter. I was VERY surprised when I compared them.
 

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bigl22, by the way, I would suggest changing your oil at 50 hours or less. In my case, the engine and the hydrostatic transmission share the oil, so clean fresh oil is a must. I keep an eye on the oil and when it starts to change color and get dark, I change it and the filter.
 

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Chief people can say what they want about cheap Fram filters but i have a 1986 Toyota pickup that from the first oil change i have used the cheap orange Fram oil filter. This truck now has 257585 miles on it. I have not had any oil related problems with it and i will use the Fram until it don't go no more. On my Cub with its 15 HP Kawasaki i use the Fram truck filter.
 

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After reading several oil filter reviews and viewing cutaways of various filters the only thing I'd use a FRAM filter for would be a target to shoot at. The el-cheapo anti-drainback valve on them is one major reason.
 

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I used to use Fram filters too Jody. Up until I saw how they were constructed as compared to other better quality built filters. Even the Motocraft filters are FAR better manufactured than the Fram.
 

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Now for what I use on filters. It's the orginal manufactuers or if I am feeling cheap, I have cross referenced the oil filters to Wix filters and generally only use the Wix filters or in a pinch the NAPA name brand as they are made by Wix. Nothing else is used as I feel the rest are inferior. I do not trust any other brand as I used to do vehicle maintenace before I was a aircraft mechanic and by far the least oil related problems were with the wix and either the OE oil or Valvoline oil are the only oils I use.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
guys--guys- i wanted to know some specs answers about the full pressure oiling on a B&S twin intek-- it says pressure lubrication and oil filter on engine-- site says full presure lubrication -- salesclown says only partly pressurized-- rest a fan impeller oi spray lubed-- I didn't want another rehash of the oil filter who's on first -- I use the stp filters now as they are made a bit better than Fram[ junk-- I had 2 fail on my truck-- never again a FRam] I looked in detail at JD and B&S filters and they are designed to open at same pressure and made same-- this IS a Lawn tractor filter stp/deustch filters-- stp#S3512 -- just as good IMO and 3$ instead of 12$ --- but back to the question-- what is the oil lube method on a B&S intek twin?- oh yeah after the first 5 hours I change BOTH filter and poil at every 25 hours-- it is 11 months old now and just had 4th change-- 100.5 hours
 

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bigl22, i saw an 18.5 b/s that said pressurized filtration on it, sounds like the same type of deal you are talking about, not a full pressurized lubrication system.
 

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What difference does it really make anyway? Briggs engines have had splash lube for years! I don't seem to recall any of mine failing for that reason. If you run it out of oil, it won't matter if it's pressure or splash!! The only concern might be on extreme inclines. Which I'd be hesitant to go up anyway.
 

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Originally posted by Chief
I used to use Fram filters too Jody. Up until I saw how they were constructed as compared to other better quality built filters. Even the Motocraft filters are FAR better manufactured than the Fram.
What do you think of Fram Filters now, Chief? HAHAHAHA
I bet you might be able to convince Jody of their QC/production issues now. :D
 

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At least their Quality Control Evaluation rep. called me back and is going to send me $10. I hope nobody else comes across this problem. By the way the rep responded; sounds to me like this is not the first time they have had this problem.
 
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