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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All, Anyone ever run a Subaru Twin engine. I have one in a UTV that was removed by my Grandson to change the starter. It is giving me a fit to try and wire the keyswitch back up.
 

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Wasey, you might signal John Gardner.... jhngardner367. He doesn't get on much these days, but he's likely going to know something that might help you!
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Bill,
I have that one but the middle connection at the rectifier doesn't agree with what I actually have. Think I have that problem solved. I was in a bind because I needed two new coils and they are not to easy to find. Located a pair of used on ebay. Installed today and I'm back in business. hopefully get the engine back in sometimes this week.
 

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https://subarupower.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/subaru-engines-eh64-eh65-owners.pdf
Page 8 has a wiring diagram which includes the key switch.
Sorry about the late reply!
Well... That particular 5-prong is kind of a butt-bitero_O. The S terminal is usually the top spade not the M. That's something to pay attention to, after looking at this wiring diagram, if I come across a Subaru acting weird trying to start... Here's what's way more common....


Somebody changes out the switch (It'll plug right in apparently) and hits the spring loaded 3rd position, it will send 12V towards the magneto diode and not the starter solenoid. It's highly unusual for both Mags to go out at the same time, but not if the wrong switch was sending 12V at them when you hit the start position and took out the diode the way this thing is wired. Have you checked the diode??

That Particular UTV with the Subaru wouldn't happen to be a "Bighorn" that they sell at Tractor Supply? I've got a customer that has one he uses at his commercial stables. He only uses it to clean out the stalls. I make him wash it before he brings it to me.:) I'm actually impressed with it. For the price, it's a really good "working" UTV, and that Subaru is a tough engine.

The problem he had with his is there is a neutral switch that is kind of exposed to corrosion on the bottom of the transmission that is tied into the start relay circuit (S). It could fool you into thinking bad starter, if you don't completely check the circuit with a DVOM
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the comment Bob. I purchased it from Home depot. It could well be the same as the "Bighorn" but is sold by HD as a "Bulldog". Never had problem with the neutral switch, My problems started with a chattering solenoid, which showed as NLA. After measuring all dimensions I found one for a Yamaha starter that compared well. Ordered it for 19.00, but in the meantime for an aftermarket starter for 65.00 so got that coming. I was able to swap out the plunger in the old solenoid with the new one, so I now have a spare for the future. My regulator is the 3 position one and I know that the middle post (white wire) was attached to grd. Some diagrams show that attached to grn wire to B 12v+. Could it be charging by feeding back thru keyswitch and back to batttery. Confusing to me. I've traced the wires from keyswitch with meter and for now I know where the start wire and the kill switch wire and the carb solenoid wire go so that wwill get me running. I'll check out the other wires w/meter after its installed and running.Yes both coils and diode wire were smoked when grandson connected 12v+ to kill swich wire. Maybe you can look at your cust machine and let me know about the other wires if he is close by, I'd appreciate it. I've looked at he mfg website, subaru website and others but none seem to wire the same. Called the mfg and they were no help because they no longer use that engine. I've been well satisfied with it after using for 5 years. It has the two barrel carb and had issues with that at first, but Subaru sent me a carb kit that solved that. The needle valve holder was defective from factory and it would disconnect. Whew! Enough for now. Thanks again.
 

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"My regulator is the 3 position one and I know that the middle post (white wire) was attached to grd. Some diagrams show that attached to grn wire to B 12v+."

It's a RECITIFER/regulator.... The outside leads come from the stator winding and carry A/C voltage (28-40V A/C). It runs through the rectifier and comes out the center terminal as regulated 12V DC. Depending on the wiring design, that lead can run to the B terminal on the switch, or tie directly to the main battery lead at the starter solenoid like the diagram above that Bill linked.

Briggs type rectifier/regulators have the wiring leads built in, Kohler types do not...



Notice the funny looking RED lead on the Briggs unit? That's the 12V lead and that funny looking connector is actually a diode to prevent a bad key switch from back-feeding 12V into the charging circuit. The chassis OEM sometimes buries a diode in the wiring harness split loom somewhere for a Kohler type, but they also do run them directly to the main battery lead and they're prone to feedback through a bad key switch.

Never seen a 12V rectifier/regulator where the "center post" wire feeds directly to ground. Both Briggs and Kohler units ground through the case mounting bolts. Some times when they are bolted to a plastic blower housing opening (for cooling), you'll see a white wire with a big eyelet(not a female spade). The mounting bolt runs through the eyelet and that white wire runs to a ground somewhere on the engine block.....

Start it and check the rectifier/regulator functioning. Outside leads 28-40 AC. Disconnect the center lead wire and check at the terminal connection for 12V DC output for charging. You know that 12V DC lead has to tie to the battery circuit and shouldn't run directly to ground. Now check just the center wire, if it's got 12V DC on it, you're getting feedback through the switch. It should be a "One-way" street for the 12V charge circuit after it comes out of the rectifier/regulator and eventually ends up tied into the battery.
 

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Apparently those things are distributed through American Sportworks….
http://amsportworks.com/pdfs/UTV/Owners Manual/OM_full.pdf

Take a look at the 5-wire plug (Key switch) in the center on page 38. That is definitely wired where the S terminal (white wire) is the top post on the switch and the M terminal (blue wire) is the upper left post in the "stack". Not where the M terminal is the top post in the wiring diagram that Bill linked.

If I recall, you have to pull the front cowling to get at that main 6-wire junction connector on the firewall in front of the passenger seat. I forgot they made these in 48V electric also.
 
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