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Hello. New member here. I bought a 1948 8n last week and have put about 10 hours on it mowing and hogging and it’s run great until today.
I was about 2 hours into mowing and hit a bump and it killed abruptly. I could not get it restarted. Turned over fine but no dice. I did notice the throttle lever, which I had been running at 3/4, was down beyond the full notch. I didn’t give it much thought at the time but maybe the bump caused me to hit the throttle, pull it too far down and snap the cable?
Anyway, I’m new to this and not terribly mechanically inclined so flame away and thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 

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If you are going to own a vintage tractor you need to be mechanically inclined. Ford Ns are marvelously simple old tractors and a good place to start learning.
First off, buy a repair manual. The best bang for your buck is the "I&T FO-4 manual". Google it. Lots of online scources for them. Get one and read it - cover to cover like you would a novel to familiarize yourself with all the systems on your tractor. (You will learn there is no throttle cable on your N - just linkage rods)
Next, there are scores - if not hundreds - of videos on youtube on fixing those Ns.
Start learning.
If you will not or can not learn to fix it yourself the tractor will be a miserable and expensive experience for you.
In that case get rid of it now and buy a new tractor that has a warranty.
 

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Ditto what Ultradog says, It might be that one of your throttle (or governor) links jumped off the carburetor when you hit the bump. Ball & socket type connection. All you have to do is find out where the rod goes and put it back in place. Start at the hand throttle and follow the linkage.

This happened to me once, but the engine went full throttle. Had to turn the engine off to prevent it from blowing up.
 

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There is no cable.
Its 2 or 3 different rods to carb/gov.

Choke will be a cable.......look to see it still functions as it should.

So how did it die?

quick and dead or sputtered and coughed?

possible float issue or carb suked up some trash.
Possible electrical.

Pull a plug wire and check for spark.

Front dist or side?......the 48's came both ways besides whats happend in the last 70+ yrs.
 

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Well Graddy-fied, your mechanical horizons are probably about to expand. o_O

As you read and watch videos you will learn that there are certain things that are needed for any engine to run - fuel, air and spark at the exactly correct time are primary with compression in the cylinders another factor. At this point all we can do is to provide some well intentioned guesses.
So read and watch because all the help we can suggest has to come from your promptings. Symptoms have to be noted and presented and reading the I&T FO-4 manual will give you some insight (actually quite a bit of that) while the videos will give you experience but no grease on your hands.
There will be a few tools you will need (or might already have) but all that can be looked at one step at a time. Just remember than no one was born knowing all this stuff and so we all learn it one thing at a time.
Hurry back, we're all here waiting to help fix this problem. When you're ready just post away and we'll get you going and don't be timid over asking questions - you're among friends here.

Joe and Sally (Sally being the '40 9N)
 

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Graddy-fied,

Meet Rachael (no, no, Rachael isn't a Ford N Series tractor!) Rachael and her dad are well known on the net and a good place to begin on your journey into " Ford N Wrenchin' " (Just in case you needed a recommendation). ;)
(You'll have to click on "watch in youtube" or the lower right "button" to see it.)


Joe
 

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Sometimes you just have to have good luck so you can recognize the bad luck when it comes along. 😳

Still read and watch those videos --- 'cause something else will rear it's ugly head in the future and you should be ready.

Any more questions? Well, feel free to post away anytime!

- Joe -
 

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best thing I did for our 1946 2N was to install solid state ignition. hotter spark. MUCH BETTER starting.
Though I am a staunch advocate of converting these old tractors to 12V and adding electronic ignition to them I do NOT recommend changing them over as a method of deciphering a non running situation like @Graddy-fied just encountered. I say determine what the problem is and fix it.
If in the future you wish to make those upgrades then do it.
In this case if he had followed your advice he would have spent most of a C Note to fix a problem that didn't exist and the much simpler fix of what the problem actually was would still remain.
 

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Sorry I'm late Graddy!
I agree with all that! Definitely subscribe to Dan Gingell and Rachel Gingell channel on YT.
The thing I love the most about my 8N is the simplicity.
So start with the simplest of the simple - spark or not? Did you know the 8N will crank with the key off? So, there may be no juice to the rest of the system but it will crank away. So the simplest thing - short across your key switch and see if it works. Not the likeliest problem but the simplest to check. I've had 3 key switches go bad on mine. If that's OK check for spark. Buy a simple spark tester, or pull a spark plug, connect it back up and ground it to the block, crank and see if it sparks. If you've got fire it's time to move on to fuel. All good points above; linkages and such.
The abruptness of it makes me think something bounced loose or broke. A marginal wire connection could have come off, even the coil could have bounced loose. A multimeter will make short work of checking all the connections.
Enjoy the learning curve!
 

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best thing I did for our 1946 2N was to install solid state ignition. hotter spark. MUCH BETTER starting.
Brad, when I bought Sally (my '40 9N) she was all dolled up with a 12 Neg Ground set-up. Since she was nearly impossible to start I chose to completely clean the carb - and that helped a lot. Next I swapped out that front square coil for a round one and then went with Electronic Ignition - including new plugs with the proper wires for them and now she wants to go out dancing all the time. Just look at her and she starts to purr.

There are those who choose to continue with 6 volts, points and such - which certainly seems to be a substantial part of the 'charm and character' of the old design for them - but - when they go to get their new points they do drive their EI, 12 V car or truck each and every time.

My thinking is that manual spark advance / retard, as well as hand cranking only, were also 'established' facets of the early Ford cars and trucks - and yet all the 'traditionalists' seem to not pay any attention to those PIA things. Maybe because Henry 'upgraded' when he had the option and the tractors then sold much better...........

- Joe -
 

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Just a quick note, I recently bought an 8N. But AM mechanically inclined. Was working with it, it lost power, sputtered and died. Would only start with extreme choke. Which is odd considering I had known these were flod prone... Did everything, adjusted the carb, cleaned the distributor and all the fuel filters and lines. Jumped the battery. Everything.


Turns out it's a gravity fed fuel system. Even though it 'had' gas it wasn't enough to feed the system.

Point is, if it isn't running the darn things are so simple it's probably just outta gas. Second, even if you ARE highly mechanically inclined, nothing beats someone who knows the tractors.
 

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Say there, Mad Cow! I see you did a lot of 'stuff' but you didn't actually say that you took that unknown carb off'en it and field stripped it to check for junk. Could you have adjusted the carb but simply adjusted a partly clogged jet? If there is a pine cone stuck in your main jet (or something else and maybe not as severe) then your baby just can't get enough fuel from the 'regular way' and the choke is all that is left. Starting and running on only the choke tells me that you have spark, timing, fuel, compression and air (at least OK +- so the 'ole carb (including it's intake screen) seems to be suspect. You didn't end up with an in line fuel filter in that fuel line, did you? BAD Karma they are.

You might consider thoroughly cleaning out that carb and see just what has worked it's way into it. I'm sure you checked fuel flow to it after checking the fuel system - right? Now I'm not a guy who has worked on those new fangled Ford N ones (my "Sally" is a '40 9 N) but if the fuel is flowing to the fitting going into the carb then it does seem that it is the last thing needs a look-see and a careful cleaning and blow out.

Fuel, air, compression, spark and timing are all pretty basic needs and checking off one by one should get her running.

Let us know - the really smart ones are just needing an excuse to wade right in right now.

Joe
 
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