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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, the 50 hour service is complete. Took me a couple hours of fiddle farting around to get it done. I used Rotella 15w-40 and Shell Donax TD trans fluid along with OEM JD filters.

The hardest part, the suction side filter was a bear. The suction screen cover and adjoing hose I had heard so much about was a piece of cake but the filter, MAN! I drove a screw driver through it in 3 places before I could get it to turn, it was just ripping the sides. I think JD needs to check a robot.

I was only able to run the tractor for about 15 minutes after completion as their were little ones in bed. The engine is a bit quieter but the amazing thing is the trans. The trans is MUCH smoother. It seems to respond quicker and the motion match is quicker and softer depending on the setting.

Prior to the service when the motion match switch was set to the long setting, to coast a bit when the peddle is released it would lock the rear tires and not hardly coast at all. There was almost no difference between the long and short settings. Now, there is a HUGE difference between the settings. It will take some getting use to but I like it. It coasts to a nice smooth stop in the long setting. The short setting seems to be a bit quicker to respond to forward - reverse - forward routines.

This is like having a new tractor all over again. The one thing that got me is I have no rockshaft filter. Is this normal? The manual shows one but there is just a solid tube there. Did JD quit using them? Anybody know why?
 

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Deere discontinued the rockshaft filter on the new models. They had more problems with them than they were worth and were just not needed with the two other filters already in place.
 

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I believe the early 4300/4400 tractors had some problems with inadequate filtration and the rockshaft filter was added as a running ECO. The filtration on the 4310/4410 models was upgraded making the rockshaft filter superfluous.
 

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Maybe the price of Hygard has gone up with the oil increases but I paid $6.87 a gallon if my memory is correct (it rarely is :D ;) )
 

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In regards to removing filters, I found the best yet filter wrench and it fits in tight places, will not tear up a filter canister, and it does not slip. IIRC its made by Plews.......It resembles a typical filter wrench that fits over the top of the spin on filters. BUT, this one has two fingers made of stamped heavy gauge steel that are attached to a cross bar, and move in or out depending on direction your turning, and moves those two channel shaped fingers into contact with the filter can, and the tighter you bow up on it, the more pressure is applied to the cam and also the fingers. I bought this wrench after a few episodes of filter changes on my wifes 94 Mercury Sable with the 3.8 litre engine. That darn filter was up in between the front engine support and crossmember and only the end was visible. The aluminum filter cap type wrench all it did was spin on the filter end, could not get a screwdriver in it to turn asd there was no access to the side at all, and trying it at an angle from the front and out the side jusrt tore up the filter can bad......The typical strap type wrench would nopt fit in the space.........They come in two sizes that fit from 2" to 3" and 3" top 4 5/8" IIRC. If by chance you get one thats oddball sized you can always put a piece of wood etc between the filter can and this wrench to take up space and give more compression and bite. I don;t know what it was abaout her car, but you could tighten the filter back lby hand until it contacted the seal and give it an additional portion of a turn, and it would still be a bear to remove, just like it was tightened with a wrench. IIRC its called a cam action filter wrench made by Plews..........best $5 I ever spent.....

Edit section added since originally posted:

I was wrong on the sizes, as well as the name but its onb a cama principal the way it works.....Copy paste from Plews website:

Bi-Directional Filter Wrenches
Two-way filter wrench removes and installs oil filters. Fits most domestic and imported cars and trucks. Designed to fit where standard wrenches can’t. Use with 3/8" square drive or 7/8" open/combination wrench. Patent No. 4,532,835. 5 per master.
70-715 Small, fits 2-13/16" to 3-5/32" (71 – 80 mm) diameter filters.
70-815 Large, fits 3-7/16" to 3-23/32" (87 – 94 mm) diameter filters.
 

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Bi-Directional Filter Wrench image

Attached is a pic of the Bi Directional filter wrench I posted about in previous post......
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got the Shell for $6 a gallon, my dealer also wanted over $9 a gallon for Deere fluid. I have about 20 hours on the Shell and have been very impressed. The hydro and lift just seem to work better.
 

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Manufacturers ran this gamut of oils filters and other odds and ends years ago when they stated you had to use their parts and products on things to keep your warranty from bing voided. I certainly wold not be afraid to use a major manufacturers brand of oil or whatever as long as it meet or exceeded the specs required. If it does meet or exceed the specs the pproduct literature will list it. I would however have second thoughts about using a unknown fluid form say Dollar Tree or Big Lots made in china by Ling MIng Oil company even if it isted it as being equal to.........but shell, mobil, chevron etc etc you shsuld be just fine. I think those major oil companaies would jump at a chance to defend their product if JD or any other manufacturer said it was not what its was supposed to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
And NO it will not affect the warranty.
 

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I put the John Deere standard viscosity Hygard in mine. I think you would be just as well to use the Low Viscosity Hygard in yours. At least you can get the service done and have the spec. fluid in the tractor while it is still under warranty. Not that using the other fluids would void it.
 
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