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4310 front wheel leaking oil
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chickenman, first off welcome to Tractor Forum! :friends: :cheers:
I have about 150 hours on my 4410 and no leaks. Sounds like you make have a bad axle seal. Have you been using he machine to blow or plow snow. Sometimes ice can get forced into the axle seals and cause them to leak. The TM1985 covers the front axle but does not specifically address oil leakage. Unless you have experience tearing into Spicer axles, I would let the dealer look at it and make the repairs. Sorry to hear you are having this kind of a problem with your 4310. How many hours are on it?
I have about 150 hours on my 4410 and no leaks. Sounds like you make have a bad axle seal. Have you been using he machine to blow or plow snow. Sometimes ice can get forced into the axle seals and cause them to leak. The TM1985 covers the front axle but does not specifically address oil leakage. Unless you have experience tearing into Spicer axles, I would let the dealer look at it and make the repairs. Sorry to hear you are having this kind of a problem with your 4310. How many hours are on it?
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Re: 4310 frony wheel leaking oil
By the way I work my machine hard and it still runs like a Deere. A wise man said to me one day"If tractors were not meant to leak hydraulic fluid why do they sell it in five gallon pails?"
I have a 2000, 4600 and the front pumpkin has leaked fluid since it was new. It has been to the dealer for the problem several times. They resealed it twice by replacing the gasket. But it seems that vibration loosens the bolts and the pumpkin seeps fluid. The best solution I have found thus far is medium hold lock tight on the bolts. Knock on wood it is dry for now, but I assume it will do it again. My machine has just over 1000 hours on it with only very minor problems. 99% of any maintainance or repairs I do myself and I do not see replacing an axle seal as a major headache. If your machine is under warrenty take it back to the dealer, if not you have a choice to make.
By the way I work my machine hard and it still runs like a Deere. A wise man said to me one day"If tractors were not meant to leak hydraulic fluid why do they sell it in five gallon pails?"
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jd parts diagram
here is the parts diagram
the leaking seal is part 22
here is the parts diagram
the leaking seal is part 22
Attachments
Let big Green foot the bill and fix it under warranty. :tractorsm
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done
the repairman came yesterday and fixed it in an hour or so
its a simple procedure of removing the bolts on the flange
pulling out the assembly out and removing one circlip
some parts are a snug press
banging out the old seal and pressing in the new one from inside
it seems to be fine so far
too slipshod maybe you could get aviation bolts and safty wire them in place
another thing , if your is like mine, is to spread a film of silacone around the seal cut a strip of rubber from an old innertube , wrap it around the join over the silacone and secure it with a hoseclamp
the repairman came yesterday and fixed it in an hour or so
its a simple procedure of removing the bolts on the flange
pulling out the assembly out and removing one circlip
some parts are a snug press
banging out the old seal and pressing in the new one from inside
it seems to be fine so far
too slipshod maybe you could get aviation bolts and safty wire them in place
another thing , if your is like mine, is to spread a film of silacone around the seal cut a strip of rubber from an old innertube , wrap it around the join over the silacone and secure it with a hoseclamp
I spent part of yesterday and today doing this same job on my 4410.
I tried tapping the shaft end of #21 a few times and realized that wasn't going anywhere, so I took it to work and one of the machinists pressed it apart for me.
Got the new seal in, silicone on the outside diameter, glued in place. I skipped the inner tube recommendation above, not sure what that means.
My pieces wouldn't go back together at all. I put the spindle (#21 on the attachment) into the freezer for a couple of hours, wouldn't you know it, the bearing dropped right on. Got the gear back on, then back into the freezer, then the next bearing went on (with a little tapping).
I used anaerobic flange seal when I put it back together. I'll find out tomorrow if it's oil tight or not.
Guess there's something to be said for the thermal contraction of steel.... hope that helps someone down the road.
Mac
I tried tapping the shaft end of #21 a few times and realized that wasn't going anywhere, so I took it to work and one of the machinists pressed it apart for me.
Got the new seal in, silicone on the outside diameter, glued in place. I skipped the inner tube recommendation above, not sure what that means.
My pieces wouldn't go back together at all. I put the spindle (#21 on the attachment) into the freezer for a couple of hours, wouldn't you know it, the bearing dropped right on. Got the gear back on, then back into the freezer, then the next bearing went on (with a little tapping).
I used anaerobic flange seal when I put it back together. I'll find out tomorrow if it's oil tight or not.
Guess there's something to be said for the thermal contraction of steel.... hope that helps someone down the road.
Mac
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so in other words your saying you need a press to accomplish this task?
That's the means that is least likely to destroy the parts during disassembly. I suppose you could pound it with a BFH, but I didn't want to do that. I bet you could find a shop somewhere that would press it apart for you.
Sounds like the guy who fixed Chickenman's seal didn't need a press...
If you can get access to a freezer you won't need a press to put it together.
By the way, still oil tight 3 1/2 years later...
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I'm in the process of replacing the seal for my JD 4310-eHydro (item #22 on front drive schematic). I've disassembled everything except the seal (#22) is still in the cover (#24). how do I remove the seal and do I need a special tool to put in the new seal? The instructions that came with the new seal say I should use special tool JDG11067 (seal driver), is that necessary? Thank you.
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