What a grand day. After I get this written, I'll add the photos.
Got all of the hydraulics pinned today. What a chore getting the bucket in position. That dang front right tire was flat again. Means the tube and the tire have problems. I'll deal with that another day.
Also got half of the heat sleeve off the exhaust pipe. That took about an hour. The fastener is old school, has a rusted, bent bolt with a rusted nut and lack of access. ugh. Got it off eventually.
But now there are two more fasteners that I have no idea how to get them off. Help would be appreciated.
Pretty red fastener, but I don't know how to get them loose.
As I look over the exhaust system, all the hangers are in place; however, the muffler is toast. Looks so shiny and nice but the back end of it is completely compromised.
But all the hangers are all rusted up and tough to get off. So another few weeks of PB Blaster and tapping the bolts to get things to loosen up.
Of course, the big question my Mister had was 'can we try to start it???' whoa baby!
Why sure! So I'm thinking in the morning I'll get all the fluids in it and the fuel line reconnected so we can give it a whirl... won't be driving anywhere ... just gonna give it a try.
In case you didn't see it, in the last photo above I got the gas line connected and the choke connected.
Went out this morning and put the battery I bought in place ... hmmmm think I might have to go down a size-- she's a big-un. Managed to put it in place.
Discovered:
1. No bracket to hold the battery in place. Which now explains the two fiddle bit ends of a bungi that were under the tractor when we loaded it.
2. Before putting gas in it, I checked the sediment bowl. Lordy Lordy
And looking at it from the bottom side, it looks funky cause a hunk of glass is chipped off the bottom. There was also no o-ring at the top of the bowl.
Apparently the prior owner cross-threaded the 'nut' at the bottom of the fuel bail and it forced the pressure from the side which chipped out part of the glass.
I re-threaded the nut and cleaned the attachment area. Threads fine now, but still need a new bowl and new o-ring.
Bekasu, you could use a block of wood and hammer, place the wood against the top of the saddle beside the bolt thread and tap the wood, the force you will need will show as you get into it, you may want to alternate each side to get the saddle to release evenly, you could remove the bolt altogether and hit straight on top, catch the nut if you screw out the bolt.
The easier way is to use a 4" angle grinder with a 1mm cutting blade and cut through the straps, but you would need to be careful of fuel fumes around the carby.
No screen, no cork, no o ring ... I might have one one at tractor supply; however, the bowl will have to be ordered. Tomorrow morning, I'll try it and see if it starts.
I think I'll take a bowl over and pour gas in the tank and leave the bowl off. In case there are more ants that need to be flushed out.
A bit hard to tell, does the chip in the bottom go right through the bowl?, if the bowl is ok, then take it in to the tractor supply when you go and see if they may have an o ring that may get you out of trouble, you would need to measure the recess width in the housing to make sure the o ring is a firm fit.
You could make a temporary gasket out of a heavy tractor tube and it would be temporary because the fuel would eventually degrade the rubber, just a couple of hints to think over.
That is the right one, of course, I bought the other one. They only had one at the store I was in. It almost worked, but the glass bowl gave way. So I had to order a new bowl and bail. The old bail was just too wacked.
So it looks like I won't get it running before the next hospital surgery. Will try again in another 10 days or so.
This Friday about 7 pm I'm supposed to receive the new fuel bowl, gasket, screen, bail, and yes-- I splurged on a seat cushion and replacement bowl for the air/oil filter.
I'm going to wrap the exhaust and use it like it is with the busted muffler so I can see if I can get it running.
If it runs -- then muffler is next.
If it doesn't run -- then more parts for whatever is wrong until it does run and muffler contiues to wait.
Got 1 big box (seat) and 1 little box (fuel bowl, screen, bail and gasket) today, but I was working on the Surburban throttle position sensor and didn't notice the boxes in time.
Got the new fuel bowl, gasket, and screen installed.
Auditioned the new seat.
Alas, the seat frame is frozen, so it was pb blasted- whacked - pbplasted and will be done again tomorrow.
The new air/oil bath bowl looks like I ordered the wrong one; however, it will work I believe. I painted it yellow today and its drying.
Now I'm down to:
1. a yellow-overspayed wire on the left side of the body that is laying in two halves because the butt-connector failed.
and
2. a black, smaller wire on the right side of the body that is laying in two halves because the butt-connector failed.
Since I was in my good 'go take your husband to the doctor' clothes, I didn't muck with much more today.
I'll trace the wires and figure out the terminal ends for them.
Meanwhile ... the Mister had his left eye cateract removed today and a new lens installed. woohoo. We are anxiously awaiting tomorrow about noon when the bandage is removed. Doc thinks things went well today.
One wire (yellow - left side of engine) goes from the back of one of the gauges to the backside of the alternator.
Other wire (black - right side of engine) goes from the back of one of the gauges to the backside of the starter via something I'm not sure what it is called. (lol ... and after all that back-slapping on using proper terms with the honda gx160 refresh).
My guess? I believe the tractor started its life as a 6 volt with a generator and somewhere along the line was converted to 12 volt with an alternator. My official 330 parts book clearly shows a generator on the left side and some funky multi-tabbed square box looking regulator on the right side-- neither of which is on this tractor now.
So, I'm thinking I should pull the wire on the left side and build a new one with proper terminals and no ugly cut up splice with a butt connector in the middle -- ditto on the right side.
Really makes no difference today since the front right, tubed tire is flat -- again . It comes off tomorrow and goes to the shop for them to tell me why it keeps going flat.
The lovely little silver widget with the two blue connectors up top is the thing I'm talking about. The right side blue connector/black wire is chopped in two halves about 18 inches away.
Jeeze, I need to clean more grease off this thing...
JW
That looks like a ballast resistor, used to drop battery voltage when engine is in run mode, the wiring should have two wires running from the ignition switch, one pole is for start and the other is for run,the photo you have shown should run from the run pole on the switch to the resistor and then to the distributor, one wire supplies full voltage in start mode and the other is as described, really need to find a wiring diagram to see how they are run, be careful joining wires seeing that the genny and voltage regulator have been removed until you trace the origins of the wires.
If your alternator is a one wire, then it has a built in regulator and the wire should run from alternator to battery positive on the solenoid.
Do you have a manual with the wiring diagram towards the back??.
Yes, that's a ballast resistor. Several ways to switch over to a 12V alternator, it could be a one wire or any common GM alternator which would need an excitation/sensing voltage.
I would be surprised if much of his wiring matched up to the factory wiring.
I have a wiring diagram but it clearly shows a generator --no alternator.
Let me scan a few pages and take/post pictures of the two trouble wires.
Foul mood tonight... just walked the 67 acres on the other side of the creek and some twit went in there while I was gone with husband to get aortic valve replaced two weeks ago.... the took the gate off and proceeded to cut 14 old growth pecans leaving me the butchered remains to clean up, no hard wood, and all their empty premix containers and old chains. Still some trees marked for removal by them.
I will never understand tresspassing and stealing someone's property.
JW
I managed to get the yellow wire with orange bars off the alternator, but am stuck trying to get the console off so I can get the other end removed.
I managed to get the yellow wire covered in black grime removed from the starter and the ballast resistor.
Took pieces to town to co-op..... no luck, they are out of those size wires.
Drove down to bigger town to OReillys .... I was 'just that close' to getting one of the wires; however, the counter guy said he sold the last 10 foot about 2 hours earlier.
So, OReillys is ordering more wire of both types.
I'm going with red on the alternator wire and black on the starter wire. -- Because I can. Bwa ha ha
I did remove the front right tire and take it to tire place. They are ordering the tube and will tube it for me. It will not hold air without it.
AND
while at the co-op I purchased new bolts for the front right tire. Two of the originals are rusted pretty bad on the threads. While there, I bought two 5 inch bolts with the same thread and had Ken cut off the heads. Now I can hand thread the two long bolts in to the hub and hang the tire while I run up the other bolts. Back out the two hanger bolts and thread in the two holding bolts.
I am not going to keep spending 30 minutes worrying that dang tire into place so I can thread the bolts.
Home run:
Got the tire back and it is on the tractor now.
Swing and a miss:
Drove by Oreillys to pick up the wire I ordered... the red one was looking fine and red.
The black one was looking blue.
So I made them take the blue one back and order a black wire.
And yes I know the external color will not impact the copper wire performance, but dang it, I ordered black wire for my starter. I don't want a rainbow wiring harness on my tractor.
Got the black wire.
An so far, I've spent 4 days with pbblaster, liquid wrench, etc trying to get fasteners loose.
I'm down to 4 (3 screws on the bonnet, and one hex head newer replacement bolt).
Once I get the 4 fasteners off, I can get the rest of the dash off and re-wire the displays as well as the starter and alternator.
And yes, I'm thinking at this point of grinding off the heads or using a dremel. Everything is so heavily rusted, that while it is original, the threads are compromised due to the rust.
But I have to run errands tomorrow : pick up the keys for city hall so we can get into the building early for voting day and set up machines, drop some hay for the horses, grocery shop for the little-old-man across the road, and dodge raindrops if I'm lucky!
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