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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I used a dime cut to size and a six-sided impact wrench socket and was able to get the rounded off stud out of the rim.

Happy dance!!!

I'll block up the tractor as I jack it up and remove the wheels so I can take them to town on Tuesday (Labor day is Monday).

Battlebots is on so I'm going to relax and watch the bots..

JW
 

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A pair of 2 foot stilsons would most likely move the nut for you, but I doubt if you would have room for the handle to fit in the wheel well, if this was possible, you could hit the handle with a ball pein hammer of appropriate weight, another is a slightly smaller socket, hammer this onto the nut, I know this is butchery, but sometimes we have to do it like that, if you have oxy to heat the nut to a dull red and a smaller socket to hammer on, you should be on your way to removing the nut.
The other is a nut splitter of suitable size, these things work well too.
OOPS -- crossed the ocean in time :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Discussed my plan of action and will use both railroad jacks (one on each side) and then put two pieces of railroad tie in the center back in hopes that nothing shifts while I remove the tires.

My plan is to do that Monday since its labor day, everybody will be closed and I am definitely paying someone to take the old tires off and put the new tires on. Last thing I need is to strain my back before my husband gets through September (lots more doctors, mri, and physical therapy).

So maybe I'll drain the oil tomorrow.

I also need to finish cleaning up the differential on the 62 Willys pickup so I think tomorrow is 'oil girl' day.

JW
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well I was wrong. Oil Girl Day did not occur. lol

But you can nearly see the top of the table since I've thrown away, filed, or mailed off paperwork that's been sitting there for-freaking-ever.

Today (Labor Day) my labor included finally getting pictures resized and uploaded.
Here goes:

View media item 3381Pulling it off the trailer with our Mahindra.
I decided to bring it home to work on it and give the goats yet one more thing to climb on. Sigh.

View media item 3383It rolled crazy easy off the trailer. I should have moved the trailer closer to my shade tree and we wouldn't have had to drag it there.

View media item 3385And it is under the tree.

View media item 3401New Tires are already on the front. I did that while it was down at the estate and still on the trailer. However, there isn't enough room between the rims and the trailer side rail to do the rear tires.

View media item 3397New rear tires ready to be put into play.

View media item 3407You would have really enjoyed watching me jack up the chassis, back off all the studs, and wobble the tire off.

View media item 3419Old tire is on the trailer.

View media item 3415I fought the other side for 30 minutes, used 30W oil to lube it, pried on it, pushed on it, sledged it-- no love. It is not wanting to come off.

View media item 3403The rounded off bolt head that gave me fits.

View media item 3399Compromised hydraulic lines. They will all have to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Here are my two questions:

1. What secret do I need to know to get that rim off?
The first one I could just 'walk' it forward and it pulled off with its own weight.
The 2nd rear tire doesn't want to walk forward as far. It binds and won't come off.

Is this a 'shove it back and try to remove rust' thing
or
Is this a 'you need a pry bar and a helper to encourage it off while you pry on it' thing?
or
Is there some other secret I need to know?


2. Why is the 'hub?' on one so much darker than the other one?
Is it leaking, is there a seal I should know about?
Can I fix it after I put the tire back on or do I need to pull it apart before I put the tire back on?

JW
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
My brother went out to the tractor and futzed with it.
Used a really long pry bar sitting between the tire and the body and shoved/nudged the tire about every 6 inches/rotate/6 inches/rotate etc til he got around a couple of times.

Then he must have worried it enough at some point that it finally came off.

Both tires are on the trailer and ready to go to town tomorrow and get fixed up.

JW
 

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2. Why is the 'hub?' on one so much darker than the other one?
Is it leaking, is there a seal I should know about?
Can I fix it after I put the tire back on or do I need to pull it apart before I put the tire back on?

JW
Does it feel like grease or oil? Is the oil up to snuff in the rear end?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
It sure seems like it is oil.

Took 5 hours, plus two trips to town (1 hour each) but the tractor tires are here at home now. I had new tubes put in and of course new valve stems.

I'll get my brush and cleaning supplies and clear everything off before I put the wheels back on.

So Hoodoo, are you saying that there might be an axle seal that needs to be replaced?

I just learned about rear axle seals in my 62 Willys pickup two weeks ago. Took forever to get the seal out, but when I did I certainly can see why its important.

And 'do I have oil in the rear' -- how do I check that. My manual is anemic when it comes to specifics. Just says I need to check such & such every so many miles. No details on much of the basics.

JW
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
VICTORY
(8:15 pm CST last night)

Both rear tires are now off the trailer and on the tractor!
Hot, humid and lordy those things are heavy to lift. lol

Doctor appointments and physical therapy for the next two days...

JW
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Tires on back on the tractor as of about 20 minutes ago.
I had 3 studs that were problematic... 1- rolled edges on the head, 2 - looked like there wasn't much thread left

So I replaced 3 studs.
Remembered to use my 6 side socket and my breaker bar.

Removed the wood blocks and the two jacks.

Next, I've decided to get the cylinders repacked and replace all the lines. So I'll have to check into the backlog and decide if that happens now or later this fall.

Removing the bucket and assorted attachments will make it easier to clean the rest of the tractor, I believe.

But the temps are still 100+ so you know how far 'good intentions' will go... lol

JW
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Husband doesn't want me to take the loader off.

Its not important enough to argue about, so it stays on.

maybe I'll use this as an opportunity to buy a small ladder or one of those longer step stools you work on trucks with.

I'll try it his way and hopefully it will start getting cool enough to get this beast working.

JW
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
I have the sinking feeling they used loctite when they cobbled together the plumping/piping for the hydrualics.

So far I see galvanized pipe, steel pipe, hydraulic hose (non-braided), black pipe connectors, hydraulic hose connectors, and most of it is coated it peeling yellow paint, cracking, rust, or spaulding metal of some sort.

Nearly every 'connection' point has 2 to three adapters to get it from one hose to another.

My pb blaster is going to get used up on this project I believe.

Pictures as soon as I get them resized.

JW
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Who knows what happened to the pictures I was going to resize ... lol

Last week I finally got the cylinders off.
The key to success was to realize
1. there are two different sizes of connectors and you need two open wrenches of the same size (7/8 ths and 1 inch). One wrench holds the line past the connector on the hose -- the other wrench turns the connector-- if you have a breaker bar and enough pb blaster on it. lol

2. Use a chisel (or a tore up flat screwdriver) and a hammer (or a small sledge) and whack the crap out of the two clips holding the metal lines across the top of the tractor. Eventually the clips will give just enough you can wiggle the bottom metal line out... then the top metal line. That gives you enough play to move the lines and the ends so you can get your wrenches in place.

Took the cylinders 50 miles away to be repacked on Tuesday.. They called me today on Friday before close of business to say they were done. Suh-weet.

Course its 45 degrees and raining all day so I'm going to go get them on Monday.

Machine shop said they were slow right now, so I'm have Casey (local guy) help get the bottom dipper 'swing' cylinders off the 580k backhoe next week and get them in to be repacked.

Woo hoo...

JW
 

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My pb blaster is going to get used up on this project I believe.

Pictures as soon as I get them resized.

JW
Should you ever need to up your game beyond PB, Seafoam Deep Creep is the tops. BUT, $$$.

My regiment is, first use PB. Even soaking over night. PB fails, then default to Liquid Wrench. Should LW fail, time to pull out the Deep Creep.

Deep Creep works soooo well, but at $11 a bottle, I try to use the first two as much as I can.

Oh, I learned on my truck, after getting stubborn rims off that rusted to the drums, once all is cleaned off, a bit on anti-seize gray goo helps in the future event needing them to come off again.

Good to know the saga of getting it back to shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Got the repacked cylinders for the 330 internation back.
Am putting the 2 bottom-swing cylinders from the 580k backhoe in to get repacked.

Need to get some rust converter and some new yellow paint for these cylinders and start the process of getting the hoses off and replaced... at least the ones that need it.

JW
 
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