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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a question about these levers . I believe one is the raise/lower lever for the 3 point and one is draft. Can any give me the skinny on how they work. Also should the raise and lower lever return to the lowering position on its own or should it stay where its set too ? Thanks gurus
 

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I have a question about these levers . I believe one is the raise/lower lever for the 3 point and one is draft. Can any give me the skinny on how they work. Also should the raise and lower lever return to the lowering position on its own or should it stay where its set too ? Thanks gurus
Good questions.

I would only assume the 3PT raise/lower stays in place unless otherwise manually moved. If it's slipping to lower, then the friction disc/bushing needs to be replaced or tightened.

Draft control lever typically moves to a depth and positional control. Not sure if your machine is a UFO draft control type or the old school method Yanmar had with the John Deeres.

Winston and others may know more about draft control. My machine didn't come with that option. It does have the necessary mounting and ports for it though.

What's with the lever against the seat? Is that a seat adjustment or something else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good questions.

I would only assume the 3PT raise/lower stays in place unless otherwise manually moved. If it's slipping to lower, then the friction disc/bushing needs to be replaced or tightened.

Draft control lever typically moves to a depth and positional control. Not sure if your machine is a UFO draft control type or the old school method Yanmar had with the John Deeres.

Winston and others may know more about draft control. My machine didn't come with that option. It does have the necessary mounting and ports for it though.

What's with the lever against the seat? Is that a seat adjustment or something else?
Thanks fore the reply. The lever next to the seat is a seat adjustment lever.
As for the lift lever is the friction disc or bushing just under the fender ? Id love to be able to set height and leave it while using the loader or just driving across the property.
 

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with no information out there I would use common sense and follow the lever down to the pivot point expecting to find friction discs of some sort that could be adjusted to hold the lever at your desired setting. Maverick has already alluded to that. I doubt very seriously you will ever have a need for the draft control. There are numerous videos on youtube for draft control, probably none just like yours but much to be learned by watching some of them.

This might well cover your engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
with no information out there I would use common sense and follow the lever down to the pivot point expecting to find friction discs of some sort that could be adjusted to hold the lever at your desired setting. Maverick has already alluded to that. I doubt very seriously you will ever have a need for the draft control. There are numerous videos on youtube for draft control, probably none just like yours but much to be learned by watching some of them.

This might well cover your engine.
Thank you !!! You guys have been very informative and helpful. I really do appreciate it. This stuff is so new to me. I found where to set the tension for the lever but now I have a different issue.(of course) I cant say for sure but I think the valve has an internal leak because then I put the lever in one spot after a few seconds the implement will drop very slightly and then it goes back up to where its set. Its almost as if it knows it went down slightly and corrects the slight drop on its own. One day I'll get all this sorted out. I'm hoping its more of a bad o-ring or seal issue then anything major. I am supposed to be off work between Xmas and NYE. Hopefully I get a chance to remove it and see if it can be repaired.
 

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Thank you !!! You guys have been very informative and helpful. I really do appreciate it. This stuff is so new to me. I found where to set the tension for the lever but now I have a different issue.(of course) I cant say for sure but I think the valve has an internal leak because then I put the lever in one spot after a few seconds the implement will drop very slightly and then it goes back up to where its set. Its almost as if it knows it went down slightly and corrects the slight drop on its own. One day I'll get all this sorted out. I'm hoping its more of a bad o-ring or seal issue then anything major. I am supposed to be off work between Xmas and NYE. Hopefully I get a chance to remove it and see if it can be repaired.
Oh, the way you describe the goes down and then comes back up on it's own is a UFO function. Yes, it's a draft control being applied.

Sure both Winston and I gave you the manuals, but those are for Service Repairs and not the OPS Manual that would tell you so much more on how to work the UFO or even turn the feature off for the Yanmar to work like a normal 3PT machine.

I'll poke around in the higher F-Series and see if something for an OPS manual is closer to the F395. I know that Tractor-Ernie has a F235 and we've translated the UFO to English out of that OPS manual. ;)

Does your machine have this setup? This is an F235.

Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Trunk
 

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Thank you !!! You guys have been very informative and helpful. I really do appreciate it. This stuff is so new to me. I found where to set the tension for the lever but now I have a different issue.(of course) I cant say for sure but I think the valve has an internal leak because then I put the lever in one spot after a few seconds the implement will drop very slightly and then it goes back up to where its set. Its almost as if it knows it went down slightly and corrects the slight drop on its own. One day I'll get all this sorted out. I'm hoping its more of a bad o-ring or seal issue then anything major. I am supposed to be off work between Xmas and NYE. Hopefully I get a chance to remove it and see if it can be repaired.
Oh, did I get you this in the last thread? The F395 is Kukje+Yanmar made in Korea. :)

And on Page-29, translated via Yandex, I see this info.

Font Slope Parallel Elbow Rectangle
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh, the way you describe the goes down and then comes back up on it's own is a UFO function. Yes, it's a draft control being applied.

Sure both Winston and I gave you the manuals, but those are for Service Repairs and not the OPS Manual that would tell you so much more on how to work the UFO or even turn the feature off for the Yanmar to work like a normal 3PT machine.

I'll poke around in the higher F-Series and see if something for an OPS manual is closer to the F395. I know that Tractor-Ernie has a F235 and we've translated the UFO to English out of that OPS manual. ;)

Does your machine have this setup? This is an F235.

View attachment 76168
No thats a completely different machine then mine. Mine must be much older as I do not have any of those buttons or knobs.
 

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Thank you !!! You guys have been very informative and helpful. I really do appreciate it. This stuff is so new to me. I found where to set the tension for the lever but now I have a different issue.(of course) I cant say for sure but I think the valve has an internal leak because then I put the lever in one spot after a few seconds the implement will drop very slightly and then it goes back up to where its set. Its almost as if it knows it went down slightly and corrects the slight drop on its own. One day I'll get all this sorted out. I'm hoping its more of a bad o-ring or seal issue then anything major. I am supposed to be off work between Xmas and NYE. Hopefully I get a chance to remove it and see if it can be repaired.
Ah, you need to read page 37. This would tell you how it all works together or independently.

Rectangle Font Art Parallel Pattern


Oh, want to read that in English ???


Depending on how I zoom in or zoom out, Yandex gives translation clues.

Top left image close up - - -

Product Organism Motor vehicle Mode of transport Font


zoomed back - - -

Rectangle Black Organism Motor vehicle Font


zoomed to the low right of image - - -

Rectangle Organism Water Font Slope


So, it's a little time involved, but not much. I use the snip tool and just paste into the Yandex. Then snip and past here. :)

Lets see how the next image on the left middle works as image (1) - - -
make sure you give a little extra white space around the Japanese characters, else it translates really funny too. haha

Hey, is your machine missing the decal on the smaller lever in this image ????
Motor vehicle Automotive design Font Automotive lighting Automotive exterior


hahah, yes, You can do it. Also that smaller lever looks to have a wingnut to lock the Draft Control in place. hmmmm

image (2) - - -

Motor vehicle Font Parallel Rectangle Engineering


image (3)

Font Line Art Parallel Motor vehicle


Oil pressure is really hydraulic oil pressure, not engine oil pressure.
Yandex also switch to Chinese to English above due to being zoomed out too far. Thus the funky translation.

I'll need to zoom in to translate again.
Way better, kept to Japanese to English this time. ;)
Motor vehicle Product Automotive tire Organism Font


This is a very common control for 90% of tractor brands. The Balp is really BALL KNOB.

And the words below it - - -

Handwriting Mammal Font Rectangle Art
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll take a bunch of cockpit pictures of my goofball tractor and post them all here and maybe you gurus can ID some of my features and controls. I really like this oddball tractor I just need to get some things sorted out.
 

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image (4) - - -

So funny reading it.

Motor vehicle Font Automotive exterior Parallel Auto part


Yes, lets zoom in to the top. I have to also take the pre-translated image to MS-Paint and cut-out the tractor image lines away from the Japanese to properly translate. Those artifacts mess up the translation.

Font Rectangle Sky Brand Logo


lots of cleanup on that lever word.

Hand Motor vehicle Gesture Automotive design Font


Still below, it's funky translated.

Rectangle Font Art Circle Pattern


ok, when this gets funky, I then use the 2nd translator. it's a bit trickier to use.
Translate an image
Goole output
When using the external connection 11, set the replacement lever to the "outside" position and pipe the valve of the work machine to the external collection BT1.
Bing Output
When using the external connection 11, put the replacement lever in the "external" position and pipe the valve of the construction machine to the external yield BT1.

So, that's all of page 37 translated. :)
 
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I'll take a bunch of cockpit pictures of my goofball tractor and post them all here and maybe you gurus can ID some of my features and controls. I really like this oddball tractor I just need to get some things sorted out.
Oh, even though my machine is a UTDA total restore, I had to find images of the original YM2610 on the web, hunt for those Japanese decals and translate them. I know the PTO was multi-speed and what the speeds were at 2600rpms with the engine, but I couldn't for the life of me figure out what they were in less engine rpms until I read a Japanese blog on the YM3810 and how to interpret the RPM-Hour Meter gauge. It was so simple!

So yeah, it's a learning curve. The John Deere sibling didn't have the multi-speed PTO, so I had to figure that out. The PowerShift and 'live' PTO was easy.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ah, you need to read page 37. This would tell you how it all works together or independently.

View attachment 76172

Oh, want to read that in English ???


Depending on how I zoom in or zoom out, Yandex gives translation clues.

Top left image close up - - -

View attachment 76173

zoomed back - - -

View attachment 76175

zoomed to the low right of image - - -

View attachment 76176

So, it's a little time involved, but not much. I use the snip tool and just paste into the Yandex. Then snip and past here. :)

Lets see how the next image on the left middle works as image (1) - - -
make sure you give a little extra white space around the Japanese characters, else it translates really funny too. haha

Hey, is your machine missing the decal on the smaller lever in this image ????
View attachment 76178

hahah, yes, You can do it. Also that smaller lever looks to have a wingnut to lock the Draft Control in place. hmmmm

image (2) - - -

View attachment 76179

image (3)

View attachment 76180

Oil pressure is really hydraulic oil pressure, not engine oil pressure.
Yandex also switch to Chinese to English above due to being zoomed out too far. Thus the funky translation.

I'll need to zoom in to translate again.
Way better, kept to Japanese to English this time. ;)
View attachment 76181

This is a very common control for 90% of tractor brands. The Balp is really BALL KNOB.

And the words below it - - -

View attachment 76182
Oh, even though my machine is a UTDA total restore, I had to find images of the original YM2610 on the web, hunt for those Japanese decals and translate them. I know the PTO was multi-speed and what the speeds were at 2600rpms with the engine, but I couldn't for the life of me figure out what they were in less engine rpms until I read a Japanese blog on the YM3810 and how to interpret the RPM-Hour Meter gauge. It was so simple!

So yeah, it's a learning curve. The John Deere sibling didn't have the multi-speed PTO, so I had to figure that out. The PowerShift and 'live' PTO was easy.

Man you really are an asset to this forum. I wont have internet when I get home today so Monday when I get back to work I will post a bunch of pictures and maybe between your manuals and my pictures and the translator app we can get this stuff figured out. I knew it would take me a while to figure all this out but not this long.lol. I hate to give up on this tractor as I really like it and runs runs really well especially now that the FEL is working perfectly as well as everything else besides the 3 point controls which very well could just be me not knowing what I am doing. Plus well....I already bought it :oops:
 

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Your 3 point is leaking down at some location and when it drops a hair the control valve picks it back up to the set point. Most times the leak is at the lift piston o-ring but it could be in the control valve also. Try closing your lock valve (slow drop) and see if the lift stays at the set point. If so, your lift piston will not be the culpret. But do not try operating the 3 point with the lock valve closed.
 

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Man you really are an asset to this forum. I wont have internet when I get home today so Monday when I get back to work I will post a bunch of pictures and maybe between your manuals and my pictures and the translator app we can get this stuff figured out. I knew it would take me a while to figure all this out but not this long.lol. I hate to give up on this tractor as I really like it and runs runs really well especially now that the FEL is working perfectly as well as everything else besides the 3 point controls which very well could just be me not knowing what I am doing. Plus well....I already bought it :oops:
(y)

You bought a foreign tractor, so there are some learnings to be had. I'm on the Polish/Russian/Ukraine tractor forum called Fermer.ru we have barrels of laughs when doing the translation because I can't figure out what is says going from Japanese to the other 3 languages to proof it. I got a few guys who are helping over there now. AND, they use the phone app version and can translate the decals on the machine in a heart beat now!
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Your 3 point is leaking down at some location and when it drops a hair the control valve picks it back up to the set point. Most times the leak is at the lift piston o-ring but it could be in the control valve also. Try closing your lock valve (slow drop) and see if the lift stays at the set point. If so, your lift piston will not be the culpret. But do not try operating the 3 point with the lock valve closed.
Thank you !!! I'll give that a try when I get home from work and report back on Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sheeesh I found some info weather its the lift cylinder seal or the valve and I am wondering what one is best case scenario. Seems like both are quit a bit of work. I guess once I close the valve under the seat we will know .lol
 

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Sheeesh, I found some info whether [sic] its the lift cylinder seal or the valve and I am wondering what one is best case scenario. Seems like both are quit a bit of work. I guess once I close the valve under the seat we will know .lol
Winston is a great help in matters like this. I love to fact find, he likes to run it thru the processes.

Keep us posted. We are sharing your experiences. :)
 
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