Tractor Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. New member and just bought my first JD. A 2840 with 148 loader and supposedly 1500 original hours.

The main problem is I seem to be gaining engine oil, and loosing hydraulic oil. The engine oil dipstick does not smell like fuel. Maybe the two are unrelated, but where would these two cross? Considering it has a dry clutch, the only other place I can think of is a cooler.

Second problem is the loader not only leaks off, but after a few minutes, almost raises the tractor off the ground. Guessing this problem is in the valve by the levers, and just needs rebuilt. I’d really like to have a joystick style over the dual sticks, but can’t seem to find the joystick style anywhere.

Third is I can’t seem to get the differential lock to engage. With pressure from both my foot and hand, the lever won’t move. Am I doing something wrong in assuming it’s supposed to rock forward?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I’ll look at the loader valve to confirm.

But I’m guessing that since this thing smokes when running, it’s a safe bet that it’s the injectors letting loose?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not a "safe bet" at all. Just because an engine smokes while running doesn't necessarily point to injectors. The color and severity of the smoke, operating conditions under which it starts, changes, increases, decreases, etc? Any/all could be indicators. Starting and running characteristics, oil consumption, breather vent blow by, even certain oil and fuel leaks can be a factor in some cases.
It smokes at startup until it gets warm. After that, the only smoke to speak of is white, moderate when a load is pushing against the engine, like going down a hill.

Tractor is relatively hard starting. Under 40 degrees and I really have to plug it in.

I don’t think the hydraulic leak is as serious as I mentioned earlier. So I can see them being separate issues. Engine oil is still “gaining” probably a quart in 10 hours.

I will take a picture of the loader valve as well, so you all can see what it is.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Got a lift pump for it. Plan to put it on next week. It does, however, have a sediment bowl where mine does not. And the bowl will be upside down from what it’s supposed to be. Well see if it works.

Here is a picture of the valve for the loader. I’m guessing that there is a reseal kit that will solve my problems.




The rods go up to the levers on the platform.
Thanks for help so far. Almost have this thing fixed up enough to be ready for hay season.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Lift pump solved the oil issue. Thanks for that.

Now, in hay season, I’ve got another problem. I know this style tractor is notorious for hydraulic problems. Ever since I’ve bought the tractor, theres a strong chatter in the lines at idle. But once you throttle up a little, it goes away.
However, I have now found that once I’ve been mowing/baling for several hours the chatter returns and knocks out all of my hydraulics. I notice that the steering column is extremely hot, so I’m guessing it has something to do with heating up the oil.
I hosed out both coolers and that helped things, but didn’t solve anything. Once this happens I have to let the tractor sit for a half hour or so and I can take off again.

Looking for some wisdom on what I need to check first. I keep hearing about an internal line that cracks, and that’s what my problem is. But I’d really like to narrow it down before I split the thing.

Any advice or good reading is appreciated.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I'll suggest to disconnect power steering supply line then cap pressure line & operate tractor with PS disabled to see if hyd oil is cooler while harvesting hay .
I can try to disconnect and see what happens. Is it possible though that the steering column is hot just because the oil is hot? I mean the oil is circulating through, so it makes sense to me that it could be coming from anywhere, because all the hydraulic components are extremely hot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I don’t see this (my issue) stemming from engine problems. I have no problems starting until temps get down to freezing. And especially after I hosed the heat exchangers out, engine coolant temp stays below halfway on the gauge.

So maybe someone can answer me this.
Why does an internal leak or the oil getting hot send the pump into a destroke? That sounds like what’s happening to me after 3-4 hours. Lines chatter and I slowly lose all hydraulics until I shut down and let it sit for an hour.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
So what's the procedure for starting to trace internal leaks?

Hoping this isn't the infamous cracked internal line, but even if it is, what will keep the replacement from doing the same thing?

Anyone have any good reads on this issue?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
So it’s been awhile, but here’s an update.

Engine running, 3-point raised or lowered, I see no oil through the filler hole.

I took the loader off to access the lines and valve easier. I also plowed up and am going to reseed 2 acres, and didn’t need the loader. Noticed that even though I was working the tractor hard and engine coolant temp was warm, I never had the hydraulics act up. In the hay field, after running for 3 hours or so the hyd oil would get VERY hot, and I could not operate anything hydraulics. During plowing for 4 hours, steering shaft was still cool.

So here is my two thoughts.
1. Taking the loader off and no longer having a leaking FEL valve solved the issue. Currently working on getting the valve off and resealing.
2. Hay season problems occurred at 90-95 degrees. Last week I was plowing in 60 degree sunshine. Maybe it was cool enough that it couldn’t get hot.

Thoughts?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
i think your FEL control valve is a Cessna brand. If my guess is correct valve seal kit is shown in photo below. Some older style fuel lift pump had glass bowl that was upside down when pump was mounted on engine.
Guess this is what you’re asking. Just got it pulled off, and I don’t see a name brand. Just numbers. JD 148 loader that is supplied from the block under right side platform. Lines continue up front. Return from loader goes straight to filter housing.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Really irritated now. Resealed the valve, and noticed nothing glaringly obvious wrong. O-rings were a little brittle, but not bad. Spool looked OK.

Put loader back on and there is no difference. Guess I should have ran the tests with the valve still off.

Previous owner told me that the loader cylinders had just been repacked, but it seems like he lied about other things so who know if that’s true. Seems like my only options are remove valve again and see if Tx Jim’s test reveal anything, or repack the loader cylinders.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Update on this thread.

Wasted money on repacking the cylinders. Made no difference. Points to those who guessed right.

I ended up just removing the loader for the majority of hay season since my father in law bought another tractor with a loader.

Replaced the valve and it seems all issues are solved, for now.
The hydraulics have not started chattering at low idle like it normally did. We’ll have to wait until next season to find out about losing all functions when hot.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top