[Hawkins2015]

Hey guys. New member and just bought my first JD. A 2840 with 148 loader and supposedly 1500 original hours.

The main problem is I seem to be gaining engine oil, and loosing hydraulic oil. The engine oil dipstick does not smell like fuel. Maybe the two are unrelated, but where would these two cross? Considering it has a dry clutch, the only other place I can think of is a cooler.

Second problem is the loader not only leaks off, but after a few minutes, almost raises the tractor off the ground. Guessing this problem is in the valve by the levers, and just needs rebuilt. I’d really like to have a joystick style over the dual sticks, but can’t seem to find the joystick style anywhere.

Third is I can’t seem to get the differential lock to engage. With pressure from both my foot and hand, the lever won’t move. Am I doing something wrong in assuming it’s supposed to rock forward?

 

[Fedup]

It's doubtful the hydraulic fluid is transferring into the engine. I'm not aware of any connection between the two. Your engine oil rising is more likely fuel. You need to monitor that closely, since fuel diluted oil can be a major problem/expense if not soon corrected.

The loader/valve problem could be any number of things. I've seen all manner of plumbing arrangements on John Deere tractors of that vintage when it comes to operating a loader. How your is set up needs to be explained before much help can be offered there. Is there a dedicated loader valve? Is it supplied by a remote valve or is it tied into the system? Is it a closed center valve? Maybe the loader is operated strictly with the factory remote valves through the couplers on the back. ????

The dif lock issue could be as simple as stuck/rusted linkage. Does anything move either way when you try to operate the pedal?

 

[Tx Jim]

Welcome to the Tractor Forum
I agree with Fedup that there's no connection between engine & trans for either or both type oils to mix together, Hyd oil cooler is cooled by airflow through the fins. What type valve controls FEL(scv or ind dual spool)? Shown below is a JS valve & it requires a closed center plug to operate correctly on a JD 2840

 

[Hawkins2015]

I’ll look at the loader valve to confirm.

But I’m guessing that since this thing smokes when running, it’s a safe bet that it’s the injectors letting loose?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fedup]

Not a "safe bet" at all. Just because an engine smokes while running doesn't necessarily point to injectors. The color and severity of the smoke, operating conditions under which it starts, changes, increases, decreases, etc? Any/all could be indicators. Starting and running characteristics, oil consumption, breather vent blow by, even certain oil and fuel leaks can be a factor in some cases.

 

[Tx Jim]

I agree smoking could be clogged air cleaner or associated components or incorrect injector pump timing.

 

[LouNY]

Were is the hydraulic pump located on this tractor,
of a shaft in front of the engine,
or is it mounted on the engine,
or in the transmission case?

 

[Tx Jim]

Frt hyd pump that was designed to create 2250 psi is located under/in front of radiator driven by engine crankshaft via a drive coupler. Trans pump that lubricates trans brgs/gears & operates IPTO & hyd hi-lo plus supplies oil to frt hyd pump is in front of transmission.

 

[Hawkins2015]

Not a "safe bet" at all. Just because an engine smokes while running doesn't necessarily point to injectors. The color and severity of the smoke, operating conditions under which it starts, changes, increases, decreases, etc? Any/all could be indicators. Starting and running characteristics, oil consumption, breather vent blow by, even certain oil and fuel leaks can be a factor in some cases.

It smokes at startup until it gets warm. After that, the only smoke to speak of is white, moderate when a load is pushing against the engine, like going down a hill.

Tractor is relatively hard starting. Under 40 degrees and I really have to plug it in.

I don’t think the hydraulic leak is as serious as I mentioned earlier. So I can see them being separate issues. Engine oil is still “gaining” probably a quart in 10 hours.

I will take a picture of the loader valve as well, so you all can see what it is.

 

[Tx Jim]

Engine oil level increasing indicates diesel is entering crankcase. Easiest thing to check for is faulty fuel transfer pump. If TP isn't the problem then I'll bet seals on inj pump drive shaft have failed. On fuel related smoke I'll suggest to check inj pump timing.

 

[Hawkins2015]

Got a lift pump for it. Plan to put it on next week. It does, however, have a sediment bowl where mine does not. And the bowl will be upside down from what it’s supposed to be. Well see if it works.

Here is a picture of the valve for the loader. I’m guessing that there is a reseal kit that will solve my problems.

The rods go up to the levers on the platform.
Thanks for help so far. Almost have this thing fixed up enough to be ready for hay season.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tx Jim]

i think your FEL control valve is a Cessna brand. If my guess is correct valve seal kit is shown in photo below. Some older style fuel lift pump had glass bowl that was upside down when pump was mounted on engine.

 

[Hawkins2015]

Lift pump solved the oil issue. Thanks for that.

Now, in hay season, I’ve got another problem. I know this style tractor is notorious for hydraulic problems. Ever since I’ve bought the tractor, theres a strong chatter in the lines at idle. But once you throttle up a little, it goes away.
However, I have now found that once I’ve been mowing/baling for several hours the chatter returns and knocks out all of my hydraulics. I notice that the steering column is extremely hot, so I’m guessing it has something to do with heating up the oil.
I hosed out both coolers and that helped things, but didn’t solve anything. Once this happens I have to let the tractor sit for a half hour or so and I can take off again.

Looking for some wisdom on what I need to check first. I keep hearing about an internal line that cracks, and that’s what my problem is. But I’d really like to narrow it down before I split the thing.

Any advice or good reading is appreciated.

 

[Tx Jim]

I'll suggest to disconnect power steering supply line then cap pressure line & operate tractor with PS disabled to see if hyd oil is cooler while harvesting hay .

 

[Fedup]

Good guess on the steering column heat having a connection to the current problem. If the steering works okay (when all else is working as well) then the steering valve probably needs seals. Not a job for a novice, so I would suggest you seek out someone locally who knows the system and has "been there, done that" before. Maybe a Deere dealer or independent shop. Someone you can have some faith in, not someone who "thinks" he can, but has never actually done one.

Removing and installing the column/valve assembly is just nuts and bolts, you can do that part should you choose. If you can't find anyone locally, there are people that can do the work if you care to ship the valve back and forth.

 

[Tx Jim]

Fedup
I think 1 or more of the 6 large o-rings that seal the 2 valve bodies inside the cast iron steering housing are probably leaking. I think a person with moderate mechanical skills can replace those 6 o-rings with the aid of a good work light & a long stiff piece of wire or small rod. Important part is be sure each new o-ring fits in each appropriate groove inside housing.
I'll caution if 1 or both valve bodies are removed from shaft one needs to keep inventory of location of each shim for valve bodies.

One can renew the 6 o-rings without removing the cast iron housing from tractor by removing steering wheel & adjuster nut then turn shaft with both valve control bodies CCW out of cast iron housing. Then R&R the 6 o-rings

JD utility tractor power steering valve isn't near as complicated as a 3020 or 4020 steering valve

 

[pogobill]

Something I'd be a little leery of trying! Maybe with a manual and take lots of pictures of the disassembly.

 

[Fedup]

I guess my skills are far less than moderate. I spent the better part of four hours one day trying to install the six mentioned O rings, managed to get only one in place, and that one was an accident. Manual or no manual I will probably never attempt another. The local dealership put them in and assembled the valve for $80 labor. That's my take on it.

 

[Tx Jim]

Fedup
I'm recalling 35-40+ yrs ago so you could be correct!!
Back when I served as a JD dealer service manager I had so called technicians under my supervision that couldn't repair/adjust complicated JD SCV & steering valves correctly the 1st few attempts.


I remember the 6 o-rings are no easy task to replace but not impossible for someone with patience. And IIRC o-rings are easier to R&R with cast iron housing setting on a work bench. My guess depending on """"how many yrs ago you had dealer tech replace those 6 & assembled valve for $80""" that JD dealer service manager didn't consider R&R of the o-rings that difficult either.

 

[Tx Jim]

Something I'd be a little leery of trying! Maybe with a manual and take lots of pictures of the disassembly.

JD utility tractor from '65-'82 steering valve assemblies are a lot simpler than their counterparts built in Waterloo in the similar time frame('61-'75). I'm referring to tractors built for sales in N. America that I'm familiar with not the units generally built for European sales