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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I'm new here and hope this is the right place to post this but here goes I'm going to rebuild my briggs and Stratton 2323hp intek ELS not cheap generic but purchased from the john deere dealer.
It's on a z245 and it was running so poorly that I decided to tear down the engine and see what I had. I want to mention that I am11 year veteran auto diagnostics/troubleshooter but I find these small engines a bit more touchy when it comes to timing and carburetor jet adjustments and such.
When I broke it down I found-cracks in both intake gaskets 2cylinder blown head gasket push rods are all wavy the worst being .004 thousands out of true straight. And then this is the question, the entire engine block both heads all have very small hairline cracks but not bad enough to leak oil or compression. There are no cracks in the cylinder walls,pistons,head surface or valves and it was running when I parked in the shed. Anyone else who has seen this in these engine?
Is running very strong does the work its made too, just pops and skips, hunts and surges after about2 hours of continuous running under heavy load.
The cooling fins were so packed I had to use a pressure washer to break free the gunk.
 

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Usually the symptom you describe is related to ignition system failure. Ignition gets hot from operation, then starts breaking down and missing.

The apparent cracks concern me, as if they penetrate into the combustion chamber it is likely the engine is losing compression when hot. I would perform a hot engine compression test to eliminate that possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know for a fact that it was the ignition system as you say. In fact I am surprised that it was able to get any spark at all. Both magneto ignition coils were so covered in rust that I had to take a wire wheel in my dremel to get any clean metal exposed. And the flywheel and magnet were the same way. Also when I removed the magnet from the flywheel there was some type of corrosion behind it. Spark plug in the right cylinder was nearly shot as it was running so lean and hot on that side only the electrode broke when I dropped the plug by accident, nothing but white ash anyway.
I know this should be replaced with a new engine and that's just not possible. I'm doing this for my parents and they nor I have money to spend on anything more than gaskets and a few basic maintenance parts.
I bought a sheet of head gasket material and will cut my own then coat them with copper permatex to make up for gaps, a roll of fiber material for all other gaskets.
I will clean carb completely using same parts, but I put a Nikki rebuild kit in it last year.
Stator looks good after cleaning it couldn't charge I believe because of the craps stuck under the flywheel magnets and poor rusty ground connection.
I am putting it back together at least it won't run worse. I was hoping that maybe someone else had experienced stress cracks and had any advice on what to do with a low budget and what I could expect from this engine. I did notice a small hairline crack at 24 hours on the left side of block been running for137hours so how much should I worry about it?

And good advice I can give you a compression reading when it's back together, I will be finished by tomorrow
 

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In the last ten or so years most of the Briggs Intek engines are from China, and use a casting process that leaves small hairline imperfections from the release agent in the castings. They look like cracks, but are hairline raised imperfections sort of like spider web running randomly. Run a knife blade along some of them and see if you can scrape material off and that is what you have. I would not worry about them unless you are losing oil out of the cracks, or compression is low.

I am not too confident in making head gaskets out of sheet gasket material. The air cooled engines run on the lean side and much hotter than they were before all the current emission regulations, so most air cooled engine head gaskets include heat resistant stainless steel metal combustion chamber surrounds that crimp in place to prevent burn through.

One of the cautions I have for my guys is to never wash a warm lawnmower, or any of my equipment with water. The water vapor gets trapped in electrical components and results in corrosion and rust. Leaf blowers are your friend with modern equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I work at a shop fortunately and the electrical components were removed before I steam cleaned the block but this gasket sheet I found i do admit that it will be experelemental to me also.
But it has a "high pressure" sheet inlaid between two fiber sheets and after cutting the gaskets I used a drill to make the bolt holes in the material, best way to think of cutting small holes in this tough stuff. Before installation I'm going to spread a high temp aluminum head epoxy we use on iffy Ford heads. Also thinking about re dipping and baking stator coil, not sure if this is a good idea though.
 

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I would leave the coil alone. When the CDI systems fail it is almost always moisture captured in one of the electrical components. The moisture heats up and migrates to the coolest location and shorts something. Sealing and baking would only seal the moisture in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would leave the coil alone. When the CDI systems fail it is almost always moisture captured in one of the electrical components. The moisture heats up and migrates to the coolest location and shorts something. Sealing and baking would only seal the moisture in.
That is a most excellent point and I will take that advice and leave it alone.
As of right now I have the engine back together and am making a new harness as the old one was rubbing against so many places I don't trust the wires. The only parts that I am reusing are the connector plugs and the two diodes I spliced into my new harness.
I did adjustments to the valves at .250in. past TDC on compression stroke per manufacturers instructions,but am curious as to why. I know about the compression start release but valves measered the same when I tested at TDC also so why the quarter inch past?
Compression measures and holds same on both cylinder( average of three fifteen minutes test) only 7 lbs. Less on the side that overheated so badly so I was happy with those results. But still haven't run it yet then we'll really see how this head sheet gasket material works.
This Nikki carburetor seems okay all the way around except for the carb body itself is warped but I'm surprised that if it got so hot how did it not damage plastic intake tubes to the head? Rubber o rings are shot silicone or fiber material ok for this as I can't see reason that a gasket wouldn't be anything but an upgrade?
I am a certified Ford mechanic but I see subtleties in small engines that I need advice on so any and all recommendations are appreciated. Thanks, and especially you RC for your help so far.
 
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