There should also be a fuse on the starter circuit, on the firewall IIRC. Yes there is a starter relay as well, and it too should be on the firewall IIRC. My 1720 has done this two times already and each time it turned out to be the ignition switch........Never could have been the cheaper fuse or relay, always that $70.00 ignition switch.
I actually had to replace my switch 3 times. Two for not starting with the key, and one time when the tractor seemed to act like it had a fuel problem. It would staret to shudder and miss, get hard to crank, and then run fine , and all of a sudden start sputtering again. Full inspection of fuel system revealed nothing. Dealer told me my injection pump was on its way out. It turned out to be the contact in the key switch that feeds the shutoff solenoid in the injection pump. If yo need a new switch save your old keys, I think they are all keyed the same, as all three of my replacement switches and the original were all keyed alike
Does your ignition switch have one of those plastic covers that your suposed to snap on over the key opening to keep water and dust etc out? I find my last switch lasted longer when I just cut that plastic cap off and did not use it. I think it may trap moisture or condensation which wicks into the switch mechanism and causes the contact points inside to corrode. I guess keeping it in a barn or shlter all the time would help, but mine is outside most of the time. Even spent the duration of Ivan outside in 19 1/2" of rainfall, and cranked right up. I have a barn etc but there is just too much other junk in the thing to park the tractor.
Matter of fact I had mosts all of my switch and other elecrtical troubles when it was stored in the barn or shed. Its been outside about 4 years now and ignition switch works just fine.....or maybe ford finally figured out how to make a decent switch. I do know that I will not buy another one. From hereon out I will install a common type ignition switch no matter how it looks.
well... still a whole lot of nothin'! I spoke with a local mechanic that makes house calls and he told me it sounds like my neutral safety switch. i check it with a meter and it doesn't appear to be working but without knowing what all should be hot i can't really jump it out to tell.
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