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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am having trouble with it not moving in forward or reverse until it warms up. i changed both upper belts. i was told this cub cadet does not have a transmission in it. it has a forward and reverse handle on left side. changing the belts just helped very little. i was told it could be because i bought cheap belts off of ebay.... anyone have any thoughts on this ?
 

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Cheap belts on eBay are often problematic. The OEM belts are often precision length, that is, they may be quality-controlled to ½ inch. Some belts on eBay are certainly usable, but both length and width are critical.
 

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The link you provided is very telling of the problem you are experiencing. Scroll down the page and read the REVIEWS. This is a prime example of "size matters", not price. For these MTD machines, always buy KEVLAR belts in exact OEM size.

I'm sorry I can't make a recommendation for you other than OEM.
 

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Once again, NONE of the OEM mower manufacturers make their own belts. They have "their" belts made by the big belt manufacturers (Goodyear, Dayco, etc) and put into a $.25 packing sleeve with their logo on it, so they can sucker you into paying 3-4 times what you can buy the same belts for through the people that actually made the belt. Belts use a universal parts code based on width x length. A MTD# 954-0467A (Long belt) is 5/8" x 91". A MTD# 954-04208 (short belt) is 5/8 X 41

Go to the any of the big auto parts stores and tell them you want either a Goodyear, or Dayco belt and give them either one of the universal belt #'s listed below for both the long and short belt....

Long Belt
5L910K
BK88

Short Belt
5L410K
BK38

The "K" in the #'s above stands for Kevlar. The "A" in MTD # 954-0467A denotes an aramid fiber wrapped belt (same thing, Kevlar is just Dupont's trademarked name for an aramid fiber type belt)
 

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just to be clear, should i replace BOTH of those belts, even the MTD upper one ? the upper one is
  • 5/8" x 91";Made With Kevlar
You're saying upper/lower... I'm saying long/short. Upper/short belt actually attaches to, and drives, the "transaxle" (somebody told you wasn't there) Lower/long belt supplies the power from the engine and controls the travel speed through that set of variable double-pulleys attached to the right foot lever. Changing/adjusting the long belt is not easy the 1st time. Changing the short belt is one of those "Oh Crap" moments, when you're looking up at it the 1st time . Sounds like you changed the long one for sure and that didn't work. That either wasn't the problem, or you didn't install/adjust it right.

Time for that "Oh Crap" moment. Pull the battery/battery straps and go through the top.... It's much easier. It's tough to get that short belt on working through the battery box, but damn near impossible working from underneath the mower. You have to get it started on two of the three pulleys, "wedged" on the 3rd, and then rotate all three pulleys to seat it in place

Long Belt (5/8 x91)
5L910K
BK88

Short Belt (5/8x41)
5L410K
BK38
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
when i push the right foot lever down nothing happens until the motor warms up, then even after its speed is much slower than a few yrs ago... should i replace even the belt 5/8 x 91 that was a kevlar ? also any idea if it could be rear end oil ? i had that suggested to me although i dont believe theres any way to add any...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I reached up under today and the short belt was tight but the long one was loose..I will go to auto parts store and get those 2 belts and look into getting oil changed.,.I assume there's no way to just add oil...
 

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I reached up under today and the short belt was tight but the long one was loose..I will go to auto parts store and get those 2 belts and look into getting oil changed.,.I assume there's no way to just add oil...
Short belt is always going to be tight, that's what actually drives the transaxle. Long belt tension is controlled through the two idler pulleys on the bellcrank set-up that is attached to the right foot pedal. As you push the pedal down, the pulleys pivot to put more tension on the belt. The more the belt tightens, the faster the the ground speed at whatever RPM you have set on the throttle cable.

Just because the short belt feels tight, doesn't mean it's OK. It is designed NOT to slip, but if it's worn, or "glazed", from overheating it will slip. All V-belts "grip" the pulley in the area on the side of the belt. If you look at a v-belt from the x-section perspective, you'll start to understand that the lower a V-belt is riding in the pulley groove, is a good indication of how much the belt is worn. Study the picture below of what the x-section of a new belt is supposed to look like as it rides in a pulley.... Notice the "Belt ride-out", think of that as the "wear indicator" on the belt/pulley The lower the belt rides in the pulley, the more wear on the belt, or pulley. Bear in mind that pulley grooves wear also. You can have a worn out "Groove Angle" on your pulley and throw all the new belts you want at it and they will still slip. If you install a new belt, and there is no ride-out margin, as shown below, it's a good indication the groove angle is worn out on the pulley. Your 1045 could be 7-12 years old depending on what year it was made, pulleys need to be checked for wear, if it's got several 100 hours on it.

Rectangle Slope Triangle Font Parallel
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks...i printed this out to show the guy who put them on for me... they are both new. bought and out on in sept... i have smelled a slipping belt so im gonna guess its the big one...were gonna test it out in the next week and i will check back in here, also could it possibly be low on hydraulic oil ?? ...thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
if i jacked up the rear end and looked under while shifting from forward to reverse and pushing down the pedal would i be able to see if either of the belts are slipping before i start tearing it apart ?
 

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if i jacked up the rear end and looked under while shifting from forward to reverse and pushing down the pedal would i be able to see if either of the belts are slipping before i start tearing it apart ?
Jacked up, there's no resistance to the torque the belts provide to transaxle to drive the machine across the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
when the mower is cold it wont engage at all either way. when jacked up cold and put in forward looking under while holding the pedal down, wouldnt that show if the belts are engaging ? it takes a good 5-10 minutes of the motor running before it will go forward, it does engage in reverse a bit quicker.
 
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