[Chris]

Well, I am determined to get out there and work on my bargain of the century.
Paid $1500 from spolied kid who uncle just gave to him (he wanted a 4-cylinder rice car instead and to make his single mom foot all of the new bills for it --- apparently she agreed) Picked up this 92 Chevy Silverado Extended 5-speed 350 V8 (just rebuilt 2 years ago) with over 250K on the truck and engine.
She runs EXTREMELY strong and is super reliable. Use mostly only for hauling, farm truck etc.

Would be really nice to get some insight, information and relative cost for these projects on my truck from you guys.

Things to fix:
1.
I need to fix the passenger's side window motor (wont move already checked the wiring and new switch) -- How hard, how much?

2.
Replace headliner in truck (PO had placed flat tacks in it --- nice) how much?

3. New windshield --- Got price for $175.00 installed. Good deal?

4. Blower unit ---- All electronic controls for the AC/HEAT etc --- got power and works sometimes but probably original to truck and needs to be replaced. How difficult and how much?

5. Replace hood or repaint. Usual paint problem with these GM hoods --- Would really like to replace the yellow plastic headlights and also repaint the whole truck, but don't know how much this would cost. Any ideas?

Good things:
Rebuilt engine with less than 10K on it.
Strong, reliable truck. New tires all around --- put less than 50 miles a month on it usually. ---- Would use it more often but need to fix the window and blower and have the new AC system recharged I guess at this point.
We replaced everything else when I got this truck --- fuel lines, filters, tuneup options, new brakes, wiring, etc. It is in really nice shape, but it just needs some TLC to finish it up.

Thanks for any/all ideas and input.

Andy
cruisin

 

[jbetts13]

hey andy l have a 1992 GMC pickup and owner's manual if you need any thing from the manual just ask

 

[Live Oak]

Andy, I had a 93 K2500 Suburban. Very similar parts. Sounds like the window regulator is bad. As I recall, I had my replaced twice on my Suburban under warranty but the service guy said there were $180 new. You may be able to find some used ones at a junk yard much cheaper.

You can try removing the head liner and regluing it with spray contact adheasive but it is a VERY tedious task and an apolstry shop might be a better option. The head liner disbonding was very common. Again, you may find one in good shape at a junk yard. You will have to negotiate cost, I have no idea.

If you already own the truck and have it registered; usually your insurance will cover the cost of windshield replacement minus the cost of the deductible. Might be a littel cheaper.

Blower unit, A/C, Heat, etc. again I would suggest the junk yard. These can really empty your wallet new. If the A/C needs to be recharged; I would suggest putting a vaccum on it first to see if it will hold it for an indefinite period. (I doubt it will) If it leaks (very likely) now is the time to convert the system to R-134 and get the leaks fixed. Unless you have the proper tools, depending upon where the leak is can be a BEAR to repair. A local garage may be an option to do the labor after you have installed the replacement parts.

You might be able to find a better hood in the junk yard and buff it out.

If the plastic headlight covers have yellowed you may be able to buff them out and clean them up with a very mild compound such as McQuire's #50 Fiberglass oxidation remover.

I would estimate that you can plan on spending between $500 to $1,000 depending on how much labor you do and the amount of junk yard replacement parts you can find. Much more if you buy all new. Gonna be a LOT of sweat equity involved!

If you haven't already, I would strongly suggest removing the differential cover, cleaning out the crud off the bottom and magnet and replace the diff oil with a good synthetic oil. Ditto for the front axle if FWD. Same goes for the transmission only I don't think there is any filter. Make sure you verify the proper lube for each.

Did you repack the wheel bearings when you did the brakes?

I have some left over parts from my 93 Suburban if you are interested. Make you a package deal. :lmao: :spinsmile :tractorsm

4 oil filters (2 Fram X2's, 1 Amsoil, 1 Hard Driver)
180 degree Stant Super Stat
Tornado (snake oil engine enchancer)
stock crankshaft and alternator pulleys
Stock computer chip
Helm Factor Manuals FULL Set
Haynes repair manual
stock fan clutch and a Hayden Heavy Duty fan clutch
L/H & R/H sun visor set factory original Savannah Beige
Stock rear diff cover for 14 bolt semi floater axle
Stock 4L80E automatic trans. oil pan
2 trans filters Hastings TF91 & TF144
Original factory ignition wire set (I removed it when I installed the Jacobs Omni Mag ignition at about 4,000 miles)
GM Computer code reader
stock TBI riser and hardware
orginal air filter (I removed it almost new & replaced w/K&N filter)
Set of 8 Autolite 25 spark plugs New never used
security cargo net
stock serpenine belt

 

[Chris]

Thanks for all of the great info as usual, Randy. ---- So it may be the window regulator --- ok, good to know. AC unit has been converted to 134A but the blower unit bit the dust a few months after I got the truck. Tell me more about this buffing for the headlights --- how is this done? With what tool? Give me some more details and where is this buffing compound found? auto/boat shop? Hood is actually very structurally sound with no rust anywhere on this truck ---- looks DARN good for a 92. I might be able to sand/buff the hood out too? Dont know too much about this. Help me out ---- Thanks!

I am ready to put the sweat into it. I just need to make sure that I have as much info as I need to get started.

The package deal. Wow, what an assortment of goodies. Dont think I need: AT pan, visor sets, but most of the rest seems very interesting. PM me and let me know how much this leftover stuff is going to cost little ole' dear friend, admin?



Thanks, Chief.
Andy

 

[Chris]

If you haven't already, I would strongly suggest removing the differential cover, cleaning out the crud off the bottom and magnet and replace the diff oil with a good synthetic oil. Ditto for the front axle if FWD. Same goes for the transmission only I don't think there is any filter. Make sure you verify the proper lube for each.

Did you repack the wheel bearings when you did the brakes?

Tell me more about this process. I have maintained my diff, 4wd assembly on my 4runner --- but maybe it is different. Let me know what I need to do exactly so I better understand. Wheel bearings were repacked yes.

Thanks again, C.

Andy

 

[Live Oak]

Originally posted by admin
Thanks for all of the great info as usual, Randy. ---- So it may be the window regulator --- ok, good to know. AC unit has been converted to 134A but the blower unit bit the dust a few months after I got the truck. Tell me more about this buffing for the headlights --- how is this done? With what tool? Give me some more details and where is this buffing compound found? auto/boat shop? Hood is actually very structurally sound with no rust anywhere on this truck ---- looks DARN good for a 92. I might be able to sand/buff the hood out too? Dont know too much about this. Help me out ---- Thanks!

I am ready to put the sweat into it. I just need to make sure that I have as much info as I need to get started.

The package deal. Wow, what an assortment of goodies. Dont think I need: AT pan, visor sets, but most of the rest seems very interesting. PM me and let me know how much this leftover stuff is going to cost little ole' dear friend, admin?

Andy, we used to buff out OH-58 lexan windscreens with what was called a "micromesh kit" but you can buy something similar to this at BoatUS click here


Fiberglass Oxidation Removal Kit

Follow up with Mirror Glaze Plastic Cleaner

Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Cleaner/Polish

followed by

Mirror Glaze Plastic Polish

I had a friend that scratched up his speedo plastic panel in his Dodge and this stuff worked great. I use it on the Isenglass panels on my canvas and other plastic surfaces.

I use and very soft terry cloth by hand or a wool buffer pad on a electric buffer. This is the buffer I have.

Makita 7" sander/polisher

If the above link requires a password try this one

Makita 7 inch polisher

You could use the polisher and the oxidation removal kit on the hood as well with very good results provided the paint or clear coat has not peeled.

 

[bontai Joe]

Just put new power window parts in my '91 Old's driver side. Parts plus labor = $400. My glass had detached from the mechanism and the regulator was bent up pretty bad. My motor was OK.

Rip the headliner out and forget about it. Too expensive to fix unless this is gonna be a show truck.

Excellant price on the windshield!

If the blower works sometimes, it is a wiring problem that can probably be fixed for pennies and patience. Otherwise go to the salvage yard.

If the hood is solid, try buffing the paint and if that does not work, repaint it. I repainted the hood and roof of my Dakota with Walmart rattle cans after sanding, and priming. It's a close match and it stopped the rust. My truck has 230,000 miles and my investment in it's future is limited to oil, gas and filters. Appearance is WAY down on the operating budget.

 

[Live Oak]

Originally posted by admin
Tell me more about this process. I have maintained my diff, 4wd assembly on my 4runner --- but maybe it is different. Let me know what I need to do exactly so I better understand. Wheel bearings were repacked yes.

Thanks again, C.

Andy

Depending upon which rear axle you have there are 10, 12, or 14 bolts holding the diff. cover on. Loosen BUT do NOT remove the bolts and then VERY GENTLY & CAREFULLY pry the diff cover off with a gasket remover or similar item (NOT a screw driver) just enough to allow the oil to drain out into a CLEAN catch pan. When the oil has pretty much drained out remove the diff. cover and allow it to continue to drain drip into another catch pan. Inspect the catch pan with the oil just drained for large metal pieces. Very fine metallic material is normal but not a huge amount. Take a VERY CLEAN LINT FREE rag and wipe out the bottom of the diff and you should see a doughnut shaped magnet covered with grey material. Remove it and clean it. Wipe out the bottom of the diff with the clean rag. I follow up with spraying down the entire inside diff area with brake cleaner to ensure it is as clean as possible. Inspect the ring and pinion gear set for any damage. Carefully remove the silcone sealer from the diff and diff cover. When the diff has stopped dripping (I let mine set over night); generously but not over doing it; apply a good quality silicone sealant to the diff cover gasket surface ensuring the bolt holes are completely encircled with silicone sealant. (GM does not use a gasket) Very carefully align the diff cover with the diff bolt holes and reinstall. (I like to let the silicone set up a little bit so it does not squirt out so easy, maybe 15 - 20 minutes) Install all bolts and torque down to specs with a TORQUE WRENCH in a diagonal pattern. Refill with your favorite flavor diff lubricant that is called for. (I use Amsoil 2000 Series Synthetic 75W-90) any good brand similar type lube will work with an open diff., but you may need to later add some friction modifier if you have a limited slip diff to prevent chattering.

Here is an example of from Mag-Hytech click here

These are the install instructions I used when I installed a Mag-Hytech diff cover on my Suburban. Hope this was not TMI.

 

[Live Oak]

Originally posted by bontai Joe
Just put new power window parts in my '91 Old's driver side. Parts plus labor = $400. My glass had detached from the mechanism and the regulator was bent up pretty bad. My motor was OK.

Rip the headliner out and forget about it. Too expensive to fix unless this is gonna be a show truck.

Excellant price on the windshield!

If the blower works sometimes, it is a wiring problem that can probably be fixed for pennies and patience. Otherwise go to the salvage yard.

If the hood is solid, try buffing the paint and if that does not work, repaint it. I repainted the hood and roof of my Dakota with Walmart rattle cans after sanding, and priming. It's a close match and it stopped the rust. My truck has 230,000 miles and my investment in it's future is limited to oil, gas and filters. Appearance is WAY down on the operating budget.

It has been a long time but as I recall, the dealer service manager told me the window regualtor and motor were all one piece. Not sure on this one.

 

[Live Oak]

Originally posted by admin
Thanks for all of the great info as usual, Randy. ---- So it may be the window regulator --- ok, good to know. AC unit has been converted to 134A but the blower unit bit the dust a few months after I got the truck. Tell me more about this buffing for the headlights --- how is this done? With what tool? Give me some more details and where is this buffing compound found? auto/boat shop? Hood is actually very structurally sound with no rust anywhere on this truck ---- looks DARN good for a 92. I might be able to sand/buff the hood out too? Dont know too much about this. Help me out ---- Thanks!

Andy, I should have prefaced all of this with the fact that if the headlight plastic lense covers are yellowed all the way through; nothing will fix the problem. So check and verify this first.

 

[Chris]

Well, the window goes down but will not go back up. Maybe I could reverse the lines for now and see if the motor will go back up ---

Andy

 

[Live Oak]

Probably need to remove the door trim panel and take a looksee at what is going on. Might be something as simple as a broken wire or bad/disconnected wire connector.

 

[farmallmaniac]

Hey andy still working on that truck?
Ryan