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1980's Ford tractor ID and Fuel Pump Part needed

1447 Views 13 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  thepumpguysc
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Hi all, new here so not sure etiquette, but I've got a Ford tractor, says 3910 on it, I believe it's from the 80's but haven't been able to find the exact year.

I am looking for a new fuel pump to replace the one that's on there that's leaking like crazy. Here are pictures...
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Howdy brooksbendfarm, welcome to the tractor forum. Your tractor's numbers translate as follows:

Model CA414D = Ford 3910 tractor, diesel engine, independent PTO 540 rpm, 8x4 speed synchromesh transmission.
Mfg. Date 6E14B = May 14, 1986. Day shift.
Serial Number C761550 : Made in USA. S/N is consistent with May 1986 manufacture.

That's your injection pump in the picture. A new pump will cost you $700-$800. You better know what you are doing before removing it from the tractor. Get a service manual for your tractor and study/learn the procedure.

I would clean it up right where it is, on the tractor, and determine where it is leaking. Quite often, it is the top cover seals leaking. You can get a top cover seal kit for less than $10.
If u want me to rebuild it rather than buying a new aftermarket one, I might be able to save u 100. or 2..
U can contact me directly at..
My screen name at aol dot com
Turn around is just a couple of days as I keep most parts in-stock.
U definitely need y to pressure wash that baby.!!
DO NOT SPRAY THE PUMP W COLD WATER WHILE RUNNING.!!!
The temperature change WILL seize the pump.!!
If u need instructions on pump removal, give me a shout..
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I also noticed from the picture that, the shut off lever is pulled..
U NEVER want to store your tractor like that.. ALWAYS push that cable to the “run position” when leaving it for any length of time..
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Big T
Actually...
Pulling and/or replacing a CAV pump on a 3 cylinder Ford is Very simple.
Remove the throttle rod and shut off cable.
Remove the fuel, injector and leak-off lines.
Remove the cover plate on the timing cover.
Inside, remove 3 bolts that bolt the timing gear to the pump shaft. Remove the 3 bolts that bolt the pump onto the engine. The back one needs the right combination of extensions and socket to remove it.
Remove that one first..
Now just pull the pump.
The pump shaft is indexed to timing gear and can only go on one way. The gear is held captive by the timing cover. It can Not skip timing.
Reinstall pump and lines in reverse order.
Note the timing marks on the engine plate and pump.
Set the mark to 0.
Done.

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Hi UD,
I agree. It is simple if you know what you are doing. But I've had more than one try to wrestle the pump out without pulling the gear. And in one case the timing was off by 2 teeth when he got it back together.
Hi UD,
I agree. It is simple if you know what you are doing. But I've had more than one try to wrestle the pump out without pulling the gear. And in one case the timing was off by 2 teeth when he got it back together.
Sheesh!
I guess I will need to start saying something is simple - If you have an IQ that is above room temperature :)
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Thank you everyone for your replies. BigT, I probably would have messed it up without the caution and direction. Ultradog, it's possible that my IQ dips low, but I'm going to guess that my mishaps would be more of a result of lack of experience with tractors and less of a intelligence issue.

This forum is awesome, what a resource of people who know there stuff and are willing to help out.
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Thank you everyone for your replies. BigT, I probably would have messed it up without the caution and direction. Ultradog, it's possible that my IQ dips low, but I'm going to guess that my mishaps would be more of a result of lack of experience with tractors and less of a intelligence issue.

This forum is awesome, what a resource of people who know there stuff and are willing to help out.
Yes, I’d definitely be better off having somebody with some experience doing the job😊. I would clean it up. You’ll be able to see it better then. I think you’ll be happy with the 3910. Nice tractor, but no good until you get it right.
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I am surprised that thepumpguysc's posts did not include his baby powder trick:

Wash and clean the pump and surroundings thoroughly.
Spray the pump with brake cleaner and blow it dry.
Cover the entire pump in baby powder (talcum powder).

Now you can observe where the pump leaks, use a mirror to check the back of it.
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I tried to rebuild a CAV pump myself on a 1969 Ford 3 cyl. Dexta (2000). There was an Australian chap on a YouTube video that made it look like a piece of cake. I ordered a rebuild kit, took the pump off, disassembled it. I soaked it in carburetor cleaner, blew it all out with compressed air and reassembled it. I put it back on the tractor, tried to bleed the air at the injectors and nothing. Fuel was getting to the filter, through to the pump, but not to the injectors. I thought the fuel shut off lever was sticking, but it seemed free. Finally, threw in the towel and ordered a Professionally rebuilt pump from a fellow in Kentucky. Put it on, primed system, engine started and runs like a champ.
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Bundt Bear strikes AGAIN..
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If u want me to rebuild it rather than buying a new aftermarket one, I might be able to save u 100. or 2..
U can contact me directly at..
My screen name at aol dot com
Turn around is just a couple of days as I keep most parts in-stock.
U definitely need y to pressure wash that baby.!!
DO NOT SPRAY THE PUMP W COLD WATER WHILE RUNNING.!!!
The temperature change WILL seize the pump.!!
If u need instructions on pump removal, give me a shout..
Bundt Bear strikes AGAIN..
Any chance you can rebuilding my simms minimec #4685 injection pump ?
Sure, I can do it..
What’s wrong w it.??
Click on my screen name for contact information..
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