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This is just my opinion but I don't think most tractor rear tires have tube's. Mine are full of water since I have a loader on mine and I'm pretty sure no tubes.
I bet any tire would work on the front but of course since this is a project just get the proper tire ya know. My grand pa had 4 different tires on his for as long as I can remember but it had to be functional not pretty.
Ford tractors of that era had tubes - both front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
In my younger days we had tractors on the farm that had loaded tires and all had tubes. Do they now load tubeless tires? I have to thank Hacke for the downloads. They helped a lot.
At the start of this thread i mentioned that I thought the head gasket was gone. I said that because there was a lot of water in the base. I drained it and after closer examination the exhaust was wide open and letting water enter the engine. I removed the exhaust pipe from the manifold and sealed it. The coolant in the radiator was empty. The motor is not stuck and turns over with starter. My question to you guys is do i go ahead and install a head gasket or do i top up fluids and start it?
 

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It is not unlikely that you have a perforation in one of your cylinder bores. Those Ford diesels are well known for that.
Heavy vibration causes microscopic bubbles to form in the coolant which erode the water jacket into the cylinder. The fix is to bore and sleeve it back to standard.
I would be tempted to do a pressure test on the cooling system - before you pull the head.
Disconnect both radiator hoses from the engine and fashion a cap or plug for one opening on the thermostat housing and another with a tire schrader valve on the water pump. Put a guage on it and pressurize it to maybe 20 psi.
Then let it sit and see if the pressure leaks off.
A couple of mission couplings and some plastic fittings would not be too expensive from Home Depot and if you kept them clean you could return them afterwards wink, wink.
Photo shows a mission coupling if you don't know what they are.
Get the metal wrapped ones as shown not the all rubber type.
3001-150-3.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thanks for the idea Ultradog. This would answer the question of where the water came from, but would not differentiate between head gasket or possible cavitation erosion. Will have to go to the depot. Thanks again ultradog
 

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This would answer the question of where the water came from, but would not differentiate between head gasket or possible cavitation erosion.
Good point. I will think on that one today.
Where are you located?
If you do have cavitation, I have Two good 201 blocks here.
One has new sleeves and cam bearings in it.
The other is a much later BSD "X" block.
I'd let either of them go for much less than a bore/sleeve job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Sounds good ultradog. Will see 2hat comes from the test. How long should the block hold 20lbs . If it fails i will pull the head. Can you visually see the cylinder wall porosity if it is not the head. I have seen it on a cat engine before.. that was a lot easier to fix than dry sleeving.
 

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Sounds good ultradog. Will see 2hat comes from the test. How long should the block hold 20lbs . If it fails i will pull the head. Can you visually see the cylinder wall porosity if it is not the head. I have seen it on a cat engine before.. that was a lot easier to fix than dry sleeving.
If your connections to the engine are tight the water jacket should hold pressure almost indefinately.
If you do lose pressure, do a soap/bubble test around your connections just to make sure they are tight.
Yes, you can see a perforation in the bore. Sometimes it's not very obvious though, just a small rust spot.
If you do pull the head, closely inspect both sides of the gasket, head and block for any imperfections. You may get lucky and all it is is the gasket. Let's hope it is that simple for you.
If/when you have the head off look at how much ring ridge you have and try to move the pistons sideways. Give us a SWAG how loose in the bores they are.
Look closely to see if the engine has been sleeved before. You can see them in the top of the block if it has. Lastly, if you have a dial calipers measure the bores. That will tell you if it was bored oversize in the past and not sleeved.
These are all things I've learned to do over the years. Like an archeologist digging for clues you can build a picture of what has transpired with an engine in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Thanks Ultrabog, do the pistons in this engine have a dish in the top. I could put a mag base and a dial indicator on the block to measure movement. Do the sleeves have a rim or are they straight? I do have a set of inside micrometers so i can measure bores. I will let you guys know what i find. Thanks
 

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Pistons have a pretty good dish.
Clean one is for a diesel. Used one is for a gasser.
No need for the dial indicator. Just wiggle the piston back and forth and you can see how much slop there us. Ring ridge tells you a lot too.
Two types of sleeves. Flanged sleeve is pretty easy to see. Wide band around the bore.
Straight sleeve is much harder to see and can fool you. Thin band around the bore. Hard to get a good photo for you. Block is upside down on the shelf. Layed on my back to get this poor photo for you :)
Both types commonly used.
20190714_150742.jpg
20190208_104022.jpg
20200807_172954.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Thanks Ultradog, sorry for putting you on your back.... there is something strange about the fro t tin around the rad. It looks like someone cut it up and silversoldered it back together. All suggestion of a grill is gone. Checked to see what parts and pieces i had in my plumbing cabinet and found some pieces to cap the cooling system. All i need is a shrader valve and a couping. Time will tell weather the head gets pulled tomorrow. I ckecked trans fluid level and is way over full. I expect water. Will be draining tomorrow. I will be checking the rear dif also. Thanks for the help all.
 

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Too bad you're not closer.
I have a real clean nose off a 4400. It is the same as yours except it's yellow.
Have quite a few parts from that era and am going to slow down on messing with them. Have 3 Fords and that's enough. Going to get rid of some stuff.
 

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By the way,
My forebears came through your part of the world.
I'm sure you know the history up there better than I do - all the fighting between the French and British. The 7 Years War and the French and Indian Wars.
We were in Acadia when the Brits won the French possessions on the continent and forced the French to swear allegiance to the British Crown and so many of them wouldn't. So they burned their farms and deported them all.
Stubborn fools.
My family escaped to Quebec province. Some went to New Orleans where a couple of us were hanged with the pirate Jean Lafitte. My part of the family eventually migrated down from Quebec to the USA in the early 1800s and settled in Wisconsin and Minnesota.
We're still a bunch of stubborn fools :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Well I have to say that I went the other way. I started in the states and moved willingly to Canada. I was raised in Maine and foolishly took up the Bagpipes. I traveled to New Brunswick for instructions and met a Lovely lady who was foolish enough to Like a worn out old Scott. The rest is history. It is too bad because I will need most tins as they are in a sorry state. Trucking will cost an arm and a leg. While I am writing another post I found a device that has tubing coming from the intake manifold and goes to the top hose of the injectors and one to the fuel tank. What is this? I will try to get a pic of it.
 

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It is a flame heater for cold starts, called Thermostart.
See the Shop Manual, Page 51, Paragraph 162.

A 4000 use to have an arrangement where the excess fuel from the injectors filled a reservoir at the tank inlet, before being dumped into the tank:
https://avspare.com/catalog/newholland/64887/20594/498815/
At pre-heating, the reservoir supplies the Thermostart with fuel.

Later models did not have the reservoir, and only the fuel in the line was used at pre-heating:
https://avspare.com/catalog/newholland/52323/20771/498799/

Your equipment looks like the later one, but the T-connection is at the Thermostart?
And of course, there need to be an electric wire attached to it, as well.

Some illustrations:
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I saw a video that showed a guy that used a wire with a bit of rag on the end ,diped in diesel. He lit it and stuck it i to the open intake manifold and started his tractor that way. At the time i thought him daft. Now i owe him an apology.
 

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What would you think if the rag was sucked off of the wire and into the inlet port and then got stuck under an inlet valve, the valve may or may not get bent and because the valve couldn't shut, there would be no compression ignition to burn the rag away, just my thought, if I had to preheat, I would use a gas burner like you can get to mount on the small gas can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Here are a couple photos of the setup I used to pressurize the block to see if it would hold air. Thanks to Ultradog.
20200810_165446.jpg
20200810_165453.jpg
I put 20 PSI of air on the block and it dropped 10 PSI in about 1.5 seconds. to 10 psi and then it took about 5 seconds to completely drop. I soaped the connections and no bubbles. I soaped the shaft on the water pump and no bubbles. I did this about 10 times. my conclusion is the head is coming off and I will check head gasket. while it is off I will check for flatness of the head and valve condition. will let you guys know.
 

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Didn't see this till now.
Good test!
Heads don't often warp on those 3 bangers. They are pretty stout.
You can do your own test for flatness. Go back to Home Depot and buy a new framing square.
With the head clean use it with a bright light behind it to look for light underneath. Go end to end and corner to corner. You can easily see a couple thou warpage.
Keep the square clean and well, you know THAT drill...
 
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