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Discussion Starter #1
Guys, I am new to opening up a tractor but I understand the technical aspects and do enjoy working on them. I have a 72 Ford 3000 Gas engine that was knocking when at an idle (low end) and started knocking toward the top end as well. I have just purchased the tractor so don't have much history. I decided to go ahead and open it up to see what is going on with the top and bottom end. I found the bottom end knock is spun bearings on #1 rod and the top end knock that just started is the top of the #1 piston smacking the bottom of head. I currently have the entire front end off the tractor and top/bottom opened up. I can very easily at this point do an in frame overhaul but I would like your opinions on the crank and whether or not it needs to come out. As well I didn't think these 3 cylinders had sleeves but it appears to me they do. I have not put a micrometer on anything yet as I need to pick up a new one but wanted to see what you guys thought and what you would do, Thanks in advance and God Bless.View media item 3147View media item 3146View media item 3145View media item 3144View media item 3143View media item 3142View media item 3141View media item 3140View media item 3139
 

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Howdy Gatertech, welcome to the tractor forum.

Your tractor originally had a parent-bore engine, therefore if it has sleeves it has been bored and sleeved at some point in its past.

My GUESS is that the engine was run out of oil......either that or it has a blockage in the oil galley.

I would take the crank to an engine/machine shop and get their opinion.
 

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You will need to split the tractor and remove the crankshaft. If the piston is hitting the head the crank will need to be removed and trued as a minimum. If there is scoring of the crank it will need to be turned if there is still an undersize bearing available. If the engine has sleeves I would guess the crank has already been turned undersize, but?? The rod on the piston that was hitting will need to be straightened or replaced.

I have no idea of the cost of machine work in your area, but it is cost prohibitive here. If it were me I would get on the phone and price a rebuilt unit from http://www.ssbtractor.com or one of the other sources. Then get a quote from a machine shop.

The photos finally came up. Pistons look scored, so will require knurling, and it appears the oil control ring is letting a lot of oil into the combustion chamber. Lots of machine work, and you are not even to the oil pump and timing gear train and camshaft to assess condition of those components.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys, that's what I was thinking as well just not as experienced with the cranks and didn't want to do any unnecessary work.
I see how to split the tractor and I am literally bolts away from that however looking forward is it hard to remove the crank? I have never went that far. As well can you guys recommend a good shop manual for the specs, torques, and such?
 
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