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New Holland Boomer T2220 won't turn over

28K views 45 replies 13 participants last post by  DMC 
#1 ·
My 2009 New Holland won't even crank over. I've checked the seat safety, and the main fuses. the battery is good. It's like the starter won't even engage. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I can start to look to fix this? I'm looking to start on the simple to work toward the difficult. I need to get it running so that I can plow my driveway. UGH!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
 
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#2 ·
Hi and welcome from another member. I don't know beans about a 2009 NH, but I would suggest using jumper cables, observing all normal safety precautions when starting, even though you said battery was good. If jumper cables battery to battery doesn't work, on the tractor end put the (assuming negative ground) negative to a good ground and the hot cable to the main power contact of the starter. Works best with 2 people so one can be in drivers seat to turn on the key and once again observing all safety precautions. Good luck
 
#6 ·
Agh.....ha.........ha........ha!

I used to listen to "Car Talk" on the radio. It was funny, they'd get a call about some weird thing that just defied logic and after some squirming in their seats, would reply with something like..... "Doesn't anyone screen these calls" or "Well, that's the end of the show as we're out of time!"

I just hope it's something simple for Newcountry.
 
#9 ·
Start by removing the battery cable connectors and cleaning the terminals and inside of the clamps. Remove the negative connection first, and reconnect it last for safety. If clean terminals and connections do not solve the problem, New Holland has a reputation for failed key switches. Check that to be sure power is reaching the plastic terminal clip on the starter solenoid when the key is switched to the start position - takes someone to actuate the key and another person with a voltmeter lead on the solenoid terminal and another to a clean ground. If it is dead, you likely have a switch problem.

If the battery is good, and you are absolutely certain the 50 amp main fuse is good, try jumpering the starter solenoid to start it.

Make sure tractor is in neutral, brakes locked, then use a heavy gauge wire to jump from the battery cable connector on the starter to the solenoid actuation terminal. This is not a permanent connection, just hold it enough to crank the engine over. The solenoid actuation terminal is the plastic clip type terminal above and behind the battery power lug.

If the engine does not crank, the starter solenoid or starter needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

Here is a pict with the terminals at the bottom:
 
#46 ·
There's probably a safety switch at the seat, the clutch, and possibly the trans. has to be in neutral.
I'd jump around/bypass all the safety switches one at a time or test them to see if they're
functioning correctly.
I have the TZ25DA. I am stumped. I was home over thanksgiving and I couldn’t get it to start. ( crank) I came home for Easter and it started right up. I used it for 2 days starting and stopping a dozen times with no issue. Got on it yesterday, will not start. I have a new battery, bypassed all the safety switches, still no starting. I have power to the starter, but not the cylanoid when I turn the key. I can crank it by shorting across the starter but it won’t start. I have pulled the ignition switch and blown it out, put it all back together, still same thing. Will not crank. HELP ME. It’s blocking my boat in the shop, and it’s Crappie time.
 
#18 ·
You don't say if this is a regular or hydrostat tractor. On my tractor, hydrostat, , I have 3 ranges and the lever has to be between 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 as there are sensors, and it must work (My 1/2 sensor is hit or miss so I always use the 2/3 position). You can develop "dead spots" on the solenoid - every time you start the engine, you get a point burn on the copper disc in the solenoid. I had to remove mine, sand it down with course paper, then it worked for another 8 years before I had to do it again.
 
#19 ·
It IS a hydrostat. I've reconnected the safety switch under the seat, checked the connection and cables but have yet to jump the battery to the starter. (I'm waiting for a second set of eyes to help with that). I'm hoping to get it going this weekend. I WILL try the level in the 2and 3 position - I've always started it between the 1 and 2 position. It just seems very odd that all of a sudden it refuses to start....but I'll update after I've tried jumping the battery to the starter and checking the solenoid. Thanks! should have another update by Saturday! :)
 
#24 ·
I have a question, when you turn the key to the on position do you have dash lights? If no look to see if there is a fuse link on the main wire to the starter. Kunitz has on that is looped wire. I don’t know if your tractor has one. But if I was there I would look for it by the starter.


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#26 ·
Ok. So I changed out the starter. So far I have this: Battery - 100%, starter - new reman, safety seat switch - check, fuses - checked. When I turn key - I get dash lights, the annoying safety beep. On the warmer days, I THINK I hear a slight "click" when I tried the key. On the colder (single digit) days, I don't even hear a click. I believe that I'm down to the following: either a bad (or frozen) ignition switch or the 50 amp starter fuse....I also took a picture of this connector - it doesn't look "right" to me, so I thought I'd ask for advice if this is the way it is supposed to look.
 

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#27 ·
Do you have a multimeter? Whenever I’m investigating a fault, that’s what I use. In the second pic the lead attached to the connector is red, and therefore is probably a single conductor positive lead.

If you can locate the starter solenoid, with key on, jump the two poles with a screwdriver and see if it cranks. Double check that 50amp fuse though first. You can test it with the multimeter, it’s not always easy to tell if they’re blown just by visible inspection.


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#28 ·
Do you have a multimeter? Whenever I’m investigating a fault, that’s what I use. In the second pic the lead attached to the connector is red, and therefore is probably a single conductor positive lead.

If you can locate the starter solenoid, with key on, jump the two poles with a screwdriver and see if it cranks. Double check that 50amp fuse though first. You can test it with the multimeter, it’s not always easy to tell if they’re blown just by visible inspection.


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I will try that next. Thank you!
 
#30 ·
That was my suspicion at first, but in the second pic it looks like there is just one red lead coming off it. It’s not uncommon for not all pins in a connector to be used, though it is a little strange in a two pin connector.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Howdy NewCountryWoman, welcome to the tractor forum.

See attached safety system electrical diagram. This diagram is for a New Holland 2030 tractor and was posted by a guy named "Solo" on the TBN forum. This should be very close to your NH 2220's safety system. From this diagram we can see that you have the following safety switches:
1) Transmission neutral start safety switch.
2) Mid PTO safety switch.
3) Operator seat safety switch.
4) Main PTO safety start switch.
5) Parking brake safety switch.

I have read on the internet that all of these safety switches report to a Safety Control Module, which is quite expensive. I cannot find this on NH parts diagrams, but I have encountered this type of "black box" computer on a small Kubota that I have. Check with your New Holland dealership to learn if this safety control module exists on your tractor.
 

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#33 ·
does anyone have a picture of what the 40 amp fuse looks like? I see what the outer view of the 40 amp fuse looks like, but I guess I'm not 1000% sure what it would look like if it was bad. So....switching to another area....if the dash lights come on, then it WOULDN'T be the ignition switch? What about a relay? Anyone have a picture of what a relay looks like? I've learned alot since I moved to the country...but still learning the tractor parts...
 
#34 ·
Fuses can look like any of the following:




If it’s burnt, you can usually see that the wavy piece of metal in the middle is broken. But not always. I double check them with my multimeter by setting it on ohms and setting it to the beep setting.

Your starter relay, or solenoid will be mounted to you starter and will look like this:

And on the started like this:

Other relays for wipers, and turn signals and what not typically look like this:



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