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1968 Ford 5000 Utility

Manufacturer:
Ford
Price:
Roughly $6500 when new.

Last Update - Dec 2020
I purchased this machine in the fall of 2018 from a local farmer for $6000. It ran. The rear tires were in good shape and the clutch has some good meat left on it. From there things got more interesting.
The first fall saw some engine work. The engine was covered in oil. What I thought was just a simple valve cover gasket turned into a head gasket as well. Took some time to clean up the crud just to get at the engine. In fact, cleaning was the major work this machine saw in the past several years.
Something didn't feel right in the way the engine ran, so I pulled the carb, ordered a rebuild kit and went to work. These old Holley carbs are very simple, but they have to be absolutely in spec to work right. The first major issue was a very stuck accelerator pump. This is a vacuum operated part to meter in more fuel when the tractor is put under load. Took a lot of penetrating oil and patience to get the old parts out. I polished up the bore and carefully fitted the new parts. The unit sat in an ultrasonic cleaner for a while to make sure all the little passages were cleaned up and used compressed air to blow them all out. The other tricky part is to get the bowl floats exactly right. The spec allows for a 1/32" variance. I find that you really need to be as dead on as you possibly can. So, I fiddle with the part until I can't find anything more to mess with. Perfectly level, exactly the right height and perfectly even.
Yea, it's not the correct sediment bowl, but it works just fine. (^_^)
I replaced the points in my '46 Willys, so I knew I didn't want to keep the ignition in the tractor. Out came the points and in went a Pertronix ignition. This allows me to run a full 12v to the coil (no resister wire) and results in both a better and stronger spark.
The starter was struggling in even the best of conditions. I put in a new 4DLT battery and had the starter rebuilt.
I wanted to add work lights and the ability to power heated clothing for winter work, so I replaced the Lucas generator with an alternator. About this time, in the summer of 2019, I realized that the original wires were not holding up. I would get something working and then find it not working. The wires were literally falling apart. So, with the help of my sons, we gutted the entire machine and replaced all the wiring. Where the old voltage regulator used to be now sits a fuse box. The ignition, dash, lights, worklights and new stobes all have their own protected circuits now. Most of the wiring is run in a split loom tubing. Most connectors are crimped and heat shrunk. I labeled most ends, and even put in quick connects if I ever need to split the tractor.
I added a SAE port so that I can both plug in heated clothing as well as keep a solar battery maintainer connected.
There were a host of little things that needed work. The instrument panel was stripped down and rebuilt making sure to carefully reseal it. Every bulb was replaced by an LED from the headlights to the dash lights to the tail light. The fuel petcock was replaced as it liked to leak from time to time. I also replaced the fuel and radiator caps. Little stuff like that.
The only thing I could not salvage is the fender mounted flasher. Mostly because I can't get it off the fender to fix it. My son used the wrong size socket and got it stuck. In his efforts to loosen the nut, he managed to strip the carriage bolt. So, the socket is stuck and spins freely. Removal now would be destructive. I have decided to just leave it alone.
I added strobe lights on the rear of the canopy. There are also 4 work lights up there. Even in total darkness I can light up the machine on all sides well enough that virtually anything can be easily seen. I've also installed an electric tach on the under side of the canopy. This leaves the factor Proof Meter intact, but gives me a much more precise measure of the engine speed but stays out of the way.
The 3 point works just fine. But my remote hydraulics needed work. I turned this:
into this:
The manual diverter allows me to control a snowblower's rotation and the discharge chute. Best of all, I can remove the diverter if I want and restore the original single remote like this:
I thought I had everything complete this past spring. I was using the machine to move some logs using a Boom Pole when I began to get a puddle under the front end. Not coolant. Power Steering fluid. The cylinder under the radiator was leaking.
You can read about my "fun" dealing with getting the cylinder out in this thread: https://www.tractorforum.com/threads/ford-5000-steering-adventure.48807/
While I dealt with the power steering leak, I took the time to replace the water pump, fuel lift pump, and thermostat because you know that if I didn't do it while I had the radiator off, one of those would need attention after I get it all back together again. (^_^)
From a local farmer's barn to a working tractor again, this has been a fun project.
I own 4.5 acres. I have two close neighbors who also sit on 4.5 acres. To get back to our property, there is a shared 1/4 mile long gravel driveway/road. The machine was originally purchased to grade the road. Smaller equipment and some rentals from time to time just didn't do a good job or got expensive fast. Once I got the Ford and saw what it did with the Land Plane, I began wondering about snow removal.
For the past 20 years, we've used various plow services. The problem isn't the first storm. It's the 3rd and later storms. Basically, the plow can't push back enough on storm #1 to really clear the roadway and by storm #3, the banks are really making the drive narrow. In the past, I would use the walk behind snow blower to cut back the banks. I remember some years having to go out about midnight once a week to cut them back as we would get storm after storm. If you know how hard it can be to break the berm at the end of driveway after the plow comes, now imagine 1/2 mile of that. 1/4 mile out on the left side and then 1/4 mile back on the right. It took hours and was quite a workout even with a 10hp blower.
So, a few years ago I started looking for a good used 3ph blower for the tractor. In March 2020 I found the Pronovost 80" you see above at a dealer in Canada. The company that owned it had traded it in for a larger Cyclone blower. This one was in good shape and was priced right. It took all summer to find a way to get the blower to me due to the COVID restrictions. But it's here and I've used it on 2 storms now. No More Plow!!!
Videos:
Walkaround of tractor:
First time using the Pronovost Blower:
Powder day blowing snow:

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