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Old 05-30-2011, 07:38 AM   #1
grif_5
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Water everywhere on the Allis E

Put the Allis Chalmers E back together. I had the heads off to replace the gaskets, got the timing good and got the Allis fired up.... One problem, now we have water coming out everywhere, Around the exhaust manifold and the carburetor (I think), etc... It just started spraying everywhere. Any ideas to what is going on and what I need to do?

Thanks!!!


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Old 05-30-2011, 07:47 AM   #2
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Could water get in the engine due to a valve being stuck open. It did seem to run a little rough, so we are thinking maybe one of the exhaust vavles is sticking. for one of the pistons is sticking?

Trying to think this through and for some reason a little confused????
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Old 05-30-2011, 02:01 PM   #3
Duetz6150
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To answer your question as to water getting into engine from a stuck valve--NO. To address your other question of water spraying everywhere, sounds like a head gasket. Was the head properly torqued of finish torqued? On engines there is a torque sequence for the head bolts. On some engines there are "over-torque", loosen and re-torque procedures/sequences. Each engine is different. If it is not a gasket problem -- Look for the guy who shot a hole in your engine.

If a piston sticks this could also cause a water spray when the connecting rod is thrown out through the block. However, this is most generally preceded by a BIG BANG! The rough running engine problem can also be caused by sucking water into the cylinder -- head gasket again.

Hope that this helps. Brian.
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Old 05-30-2011, 09:40 PM   #4
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Did you have the head resurfaced? If you had to replace the head gasket because it was blown, the head should have been milled........ Not sure, but this could be your problem...
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:08 AM   #5
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We took off the intake manifold and found a crack on the outside, opposite side that faces the engine, and we are thinking the inside might be cracked also. If so, I think water might be getting in there,maybe through the carburetor, but we are also checking all other suggestions that you have mentioned. I couldn't find the proper torque to torque the bolts down for the heads. I have ask a couple people, and know one really knows. Is there a number you guys know of.
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Old 06-11-2011, 10:41 PM   #6
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Hey Again!

Do you have a repair manual? A very good resource is: I & T maintenance and service manuals. They print manuals specific to particular models of tractors. Their is also a web site that I have used for various tractor and industrial engines. Check out: www.aera.org/downloads/Torque3.pdf I am not too familiar with you engine to say specific information. However, many engines use a similar torque pattern. Most generally the bolts at the center of the head are torqued or partially torqued first. Then you work your way outward toward the front and the back of the engine. When you tighten the center bolt on one side of the head, tighten the center bolt on the opposite side. Then tighten one bolt either toward the front or the back of the engine -- jumping forward and backward and side-to-side in an "X" pattern until you reach the ends. Do not start at one and work toward the other or start at the ends and work toward the center--Does NOt work--will have head failure from incorrect head stress. The older cast-iron heads are more forgiving and tolerant to imperfect torque sequences, but these engines were designed and put together a certain way for a reason -- most of the mechanical research was through trial and error at the factory. We, mechanics, cannot afford to fix things this way.

To address you thought of the intake manifold crack--these engines do not have water flowing through the manifolds. If there is you have a major problem. If you take the intake manifold off NO water should run out. There should also be NO water being drawn through the carburetor ------------ unless you run your tractor through the stream. The only problem that the cracked intake manifold will cause is a lean fuel/air mixture. If the leak is bad enough, you will have trouble tuning your carburetor for the tractor to run SMOOTH. This condition can become even worse as the engine warms up and the manifold becomes warm and expands. This crack can then become larger. The crack does not have to be a huge hole to cause problems. The worst possible scenario with a lean fuel/air mixture is engine damage from a lean condition and overheating of the cylinders and pistons. Run slightly on the rich side. Better too rich that too lean! Also try repairing the manifold first before you buy a new one. Some of these models can get pretty expensive.

Check out an old Allis-Chalmers Dealer or repair shop. They usually have an OLD guy who is willing to help. They most often will give your the information that you are looking for.

Just Remember: The only dumb question is the question that is never asked. Some people may look at you like you are some sort of a dumba**, but these people did not the answers either until they researched it or were told.

BY THE WAY -- YOU CAN NOT reuse the old head gasket and re-torque the head. Most often once you fully torqued the bolts the head gasket is junk. Buy a new one or you will be pulling the head off again -- sooner or later.


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