lugnut1009

I thought I posted this once already but I can't find it. Any way, I have a 1973 MF 135 with the Perkins diesel. It has a slight knock and I'm going to attempt to replace the main and rod bearings and possibly the oil pump and put it back together. I have the oil pan off now and need a good place to buy parts. Also any info on this tractor would be very much appreciated. This is my first tractor and I have no idea what fluid goes where or how much. Also will need torque specifications on rod bearing caps! Thanks

lugnut1009

Can anyone help me with this? I did order a Jensales manual on my MF135 this morning and am thinking more and more about a complete rebuild. Especially since all of my rod bearings measured 0.0715" each. Anybody got any pointers or tips and tricks for me on this build? Any company or website that I may need to order or not order from?

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lugnut1009

Well, I ordered the standard size bearings late yesterday and an oil pan gasket. I'm going to put it all back together and crank it! May have wasted my money, but I guess I'm gonna take the gamble. Worse case scenario, I'll have to tear it all back down and do a complete rebuild of the old Perkins AD3.152.

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Ron1

good luck lugnut I just did my massey 150 and didn't know what I was doing either. Had help from a bro-in-law but we were like blind leading blind . got a manual from yesterdays tractors ,their generic kinda but helpfull .

lugnut1009

I got it running Saturday. It has the same knock. But with the hood off it sounds like it's coming from the top end of the engine. I guess it's a diesel knock. Anybody ever had any experience solving a diesel knock? The manual says a diesel knock will come from either a bad injector pump, bad injector pump timing, bad injector nozzle, or inferior fuel. Would the new ultra low sulfer diesel fuel be the problem? I didn't get the farm diesel when I got it for the tractor.

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shona13

Hi Mr lugnut
With the engine running on idle loosen of one injector pipe ,(any one) one half turn,be careful dont put your hand near the loosened pipe nut ,the injector pipes are the ones that go from the pump to the injector anyway loosen and listen to the engine it will miss on that cylinder ,you are listening to see if the KNOCK stops with the pipe undone .
do this with the other two and compare the results, this will narrow it down to one cylinder .
Hope this helps
See Ya
hutch.

lugnut1009

Thanks. I'll try that. I did put some diesel Kleen fuel additive in it but haven't ran it enough to know if it has helped or not. I now need to bleed all the air out of the lines because I emptied the fuel filter and installed it back and tried to bleed it by myself with no luck. Hopefully I can get back on this soon. Thanks for the help.

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shona13

G,Day lugnut
How did you go with the KNOCK
may I offer some more tips before you strip the engine again.
The perkins AD3.152 Engine generally does not give trouble ,so I would be checking simple things like changing lube oil and filter ,changing the air filter ,check the air intake hose ,the one from the air filter housing to the engine make sure the hose has been fitted properly at the ends where the hose clamps go on ,(check this thoroughly)
Check the tappet/valve clearance all are the same
.012 " 12 thou.
The engine oil pressure.
When the engine is idling the lube oil pressure will pulse/fluctuate, this is caused by the fact that the lube oil pressure is taken from the camshaft lube rail ,the camshaft has a transfer SLOT in it to allow the lube oil to get to the top end of the engine,
(as the camshaft rotates the lube oil pressure fluctuates) valve rocker shaft etc, this is normal and does not indicate problems with bearings etc.
A reasonably accurate test of the condition of the combustion area of the engine is to remove BOTH AIR CLEANER ELEMENTS ( if fitted) find a suitably slopeing surface that the tractor will roll down ,it does not need to be a real steep slope just enough for the tractor to roll down. WITH THE ENGINE STOP OUT. SLOWLY ROLL DOWN THE HILL AS THE TRACTOR STARTS TO MOVE SLOWLY RELEASE THE CLUTCH WITH THE ENGINE IN TOP GEAR You are aiming at driving the engine with the transmission remember top gear only or the wheels will lock up As the engine is being driven by the transmission you should hear each engine compression stroke and feel a predictable resistance to movement,
if there is a noticeable difference in any one of the cylinders this will indicate two things .
One is the condition of the valves (Note ensure that the tappet clearances have been set before the test)If the valves are the cause you will hear a HUFF/HISS coming back through the intake this is the compressed air in the combustion area escaping through the faulty valve or valves it is worth noting that you will most often get some air return from serviceable valves, the noise you are looking for is a definite difference,you will know when you hear it Mechanic or not.
The other is worn Piston rings or cylinder liners, if the tractor rolls down the hill with a noticeable resistance to motion the rings are most likely good ,normally worn rings would be a sign of excessive oil smoke and bad starting,
with the engine at normal running temperature and on idle remove the engine oil dipstick there should be a little or no BLOWBY ,oil being blown out of the dipstick hole ,if there is this also indicates excessive crankcase pressure caused by worn piston rings.
The most common problems you will find with the engine is .
The fuel lift pump they always leaked not so much a perkins issue more a manufacturers design problem ,the new ones have a better shaft sealing arrangement .
The rear engine crankshaft seal ,the early engines had a ROPE TYPE oil seal and it most often leaked the later engines have a LIP SEAL and they appear much more serviceable.
apart from that the 135 is the best little tractor you can buy.
I am offering these FIRST STEP CHECKS to possibly avoid costly and unnessesary repairs not to mention frustration.
I hope this helps all who read .
Have a great day and regards
Hutch.

p.s. there are lots of service/repair manuals in ebay.

lugnut1009

Thanks for the help. Those are some good ideas that I haven't thought about. I haven't done much to it lately (I've been bow hunting) especially since I pulled the fuel filter off and haven't had the help available to help me bleed the system yet. But I think I've made up my mind to not rebuild it regardless, I'll just run it and check out what I can. I do have the shop manual that I bought from Jensales, it is a good manual. I'll post an update when ever I get a chance to bleed the system and get it running again.

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