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Old 03-23-2010, 12:45 PM   #1
tater
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International 504 Diesel - Newby

I just bought a 14 acre farm, and it came with an International Harvester 504 Diesel. First I know nothing about tractors or diesel engines. At the closing I asked the Seller about the tractor and how it ran. It said it runs good and is very strong, but some of the electrics are messed up. I asked if he had the keys. He said it does not need keys, and to start you just hold in one button for a little while then push another to start it. I found the button that makes it crank, but I am not sure where the other button is to warm up the glow plugs (I suppose). Any help would be great. I want to get it started so I can back it out of the barn and give everything else a going over. Any other advice let me know. Thanks


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Old 03-23-2010, 01:19 PM   #2
Morgan
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Can you post a picture of your dashboard, that might help us give you some insight.
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78 acre hay farm
1965 John Deere 4020
John Deere 1209 Mower Conditioner
Woods MD 315 Batwing Bushhog
1952 8N Ford Tractor
1990 Yazoo 60" Deck with a 20 HP Wisconsin.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:30 PM   #3
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Will try later this evening
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Old 03-24-2010, 09:31 AM   #4
tater
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Found the button via a wiring scheme. Still couldn't get it to fire. I held the button in for a couple minutes, and then cranked it. Cranked strong but wouldn't start? Any thoughts?
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Old 03-24-2010, 06:09 PM   #5
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ETHER, if there is fire, it will fire. LOL just not to much, to much and it will lock it up. You spray the Ether into the air intake, a burst of about 1.5 seconds usually does the job.
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""If you don't have dreams that are a little beyond your grasp, you have already started to die.""

78 acre hay farm
1965 John Deere 4020
John Deere 1209 Mower Conditioner
Woods MD 315 Batwing Bushhog
1952 8N Ford Tractor
1990 Yazoo 60" Deck with a 20 HP Wisconsin.
I work on a 1000 acre sod farm.
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Old 03-24-2010, 09:40 PM   #6
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Just a note about using ether, it works best and safest if applied while the engine is cranking. This way the engine and no one cylinder gets a big gulp of ether. In older diesel engines ether was used as a cold start assist via an ether can mounted on an electric solenoid that sprayed ether directly into the intake manifold via a small plastic tube.

You want to find out why exactly the engine is not starting properly (ie: weak batteries, etc.) because regular use of ether on a diesel eventually with make the engine dependent on ether to start. Ether is very hard on diesel engines even when used properly but occassional and very judicious use should not hurt it. Just remember "easy does it" when using ether, especially on older engines.
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:47 PM   #7
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I would recommend it the Ether does get the tractor started, getting a mechanic to check the glow plugs and replace them. If they are working properly you shouldnt need Ether but with this being an older tractor it may already be dependent on the Ether. Farmers around here buy Ether by the case. One thing about Ether though is if the Glow Plugs are working they wont be after you use the Ether a few times. I know farmers around here that dont even try to start the tractor, even in the summer until they have given it a shot of Ether. Most of them are Old Timers though
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""If you don't have dreams that are a little beyond your grasp, you have already started to die.""

78 acre hay farm
1965 John Deere 4020
John Deere 1209 Mower Conditioner
Woods MD 315 Batwing Bushhog
1952 8N Ford Tractor
1990 Yazoo 60" Deck with a 20 HP Wisconsin.
I work on a 1000 acre sod farm.
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:10 PM   #8
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Got to looking this evening and it appears the glow plug heating button is disconnected from the power source. It is connected to all of the glow plugs, but not the battery. It looks as though it should be wired directly to the positive terminal on the battery. Does that seem right? I have to recharge the battery before I can try again, it got warn down from multiple tries to get it to start.
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:15 PM   #9
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The glow plug circuit should be connected to the battery or electric system either direct or usually through a relay. The glow plugs draw a lot of current so this must me a solid, reliable high amperage connection.
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:37 AM   #10
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Alright, finally got the tractor running! with the help of my father-in-law, who is familiar with diesels. I did re-wire the glow plug switch, but to no success. He came over and in 5 minutes had it running. He took a little gasoline, maybe a few tablespoons worth and poured it down the intake. It fired right up and ran for a few seconds, then he did it one more time and it stayed running. Went to back it out of the barn (1900’s barn) and the right front tire fell through the barn floor. Luckily we managed to get it out, and I have used it daily since.
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Old 04-09-2010, 03:37 PM   #11
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Okay, it has been and still is running good. But wondering if this is full time PTO or can you turn the PTO off. There is a lever that I would believe to be the on/off right next to the hydrolics for the 3pt. but it does nothing? Any thoughts?
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Old 04-09-2010, 11:12 PM   #12
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Check and make sure the linkage is hooked up, it should shut off and not run all the time.
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""If you don't have dreams that are a little beyond your grasp, you have already started to die.""

78 acre hay farm
1965 John Deere 4020
John Deere 1209 Mower Conditioner
Woods MD 315 Batwing Bushhog
1952 8N Ford Tractor
1990 Yazoo 60" Deck with a 20 HP Wisconsin.
I work on a 1000 acre sod farm.
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Old 04-10-2010, 02:42 PM   #13
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Do you have a manual for this machine? I think TSC should have one.....
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Old 04-22-2010, 05:28 AM   #14
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I own a 504 diesel and it seems to crankslow ..does anyone have any Idea of how many amps the starter should pull cranking?/
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Old 04-28-2010, 09:13 PM   #15
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Battery charger amps don't really give a good indication of starter current. Usually an inductive ammeter is used, but I never have checked a diesel.

Battery corrosion can be a source of excessive resistance that does affect the cranking abilities. A good ground connection on the tractor itself is always a good check too.

BTW, ether isn't good for engines due to the lack of lubrication. It's a very "dry" means of starting an engine. I try to use a good flammable oil, like spray Kroil or the old WD40 (they've changed the formula on the new stuff).
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Old 09-11-2010, 01:49 AM   #16
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Some of the 1960s internationals were hard to start. It sounds like it was sitting for a long time. The fuel filters should stop up and it will quit running soon. It might lose power first and then quit or just quit. A NAPA store should have replacements. They can cross the numbers on the filters you have but may not have them by application ie: international 504. I always keep a spare set of fuel filters on hand since they always stop up when you need to get something done and the parts store is closed.
Binder Books in OR is a good source of manuals
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Old 12-07-2010, 04:49 PM   #17
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leave the ether on the shelf have you checked for the engine stop /fuel cut off at the injection pump is set to the run position like a old type choke button though a cable too fuel injector pump p/s a old trick for cold weather starting was to heat the air going in to the inlet manifold have herd of old time truck drivers using a rolled up news paper but propane torck used on a cast iron inlet manifold would work the trick on any hard to start engine as long as its getting fuel /no the news paper was put into air filter housing after you removed said filter


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