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Goober1979 · 12-31-2010, 08:04 PM

1963 IH B414 injector pump rebuild pictures......... Ok, so she's running again. Got a Delphi DPA seal kit from a friend that works at a pump shop and now its pumping like a champ. Here are some pics of the rebuild. Somehow I neglected to get after pics of the governor spring/arm/link and the metering valve. Sorry.

Here are some things I learned:

-CAV DPA pumps are TOUGH. I dumped some awful looking stuff out of this pump after pulling it off.

-Take detailed pictures of every step of disassembly.

-MAKE SURE you note where your governor spring hooks into the governor arm and the throttle shaft. On B414's it should be the 2 hole on the arm and the 1 hole on the shaft.

-Make sure the spring does not get bound up in the throttle shaft hole during reassembly. This will make the engine run WIDE @$$ OPEN when it starts and have no throttle response.

-Carb dip and 2-3 cans of brake cleaner are a big help.

-Thoroughly coat everything is something like STP, motor oil, shell calibration fluid type C, etc. before reassembly. This is a tip from my pump shop friend.

-You CANNOT be to clean. These pumps use very tight tolerances.

-Do not try to "feel" or guess the torque on the studs, nuts, transfer pump rotor, ect. You will need an inch/pound torque wrench. Guessing here could destroy the pump. Here are some torque numbers:

Gov. cover studs: 70 in/lbs
Gov. cover acorn nuts: 40 in/lbs
Transfer pump rotor to rotor shaft: 60 in/lbs
Hydraulic head locating bolts 200 in/lbs

-Upon disassembly, take note of how the transfer pump liner is situated. If it is reassembled the wrong way you can destroy the pump.

-Take note of how the guts if the end plate come out. If you put them back in wrong............well, you know.

**tractor beam** · 12-31-2010, 10:41 PM

More pictures posted by Goober1979......

**tractor beam** · 12-31-2010, 10:43 PM

More pictures posted by Goober1979........

**tractor beam** · 12-31-2010, 10:45 PM

More pictures posted by Goober1979......

**tractor beam** · 12-31-2010, 10:46 PM

More pictures posted by Goober1979.....

**tractor beam** · 12-31-2010, 10:48 PM

Last set of pictures posted by Goober1979.....

Goober1979 · 01-05-2011, 08:49 AM

First vid is a bit dark.

YouTube - 1963 IH B414 running

YouTube - 1963 IH B414 first drive after injector pump rebuild

cyrush · 01-05-2011, 12:46 PM

You did a good job there Goober!! especially after finding all that gunk in the pump.

Presume you have also cleaned fuel lines and tank out as well. Bet tractor goes well now.

Kevin2011 · 05-10-2011, 07:04 PM

I am considering rebuilding my injector pump myself. I am a fairly mechanical guy. I am an HVAC tech. I was changing my engine out in high school for fun. I have a couple of questions
Thanks for all the pics and tips.

How would you rate the difficulty level on this?
I ordered a repair manual for the injector pump- did you use one?
I have a BD154 engine with a CAV injector.
Where did you get the repair/ rebuild kit?

Thanks

cyrush · 05-11-2011, 04:01 AM

I can sell you service manual for the BD154 engine and the manual from IH covering DPA pump overhaul. These are in PDF format and on CD rom. Send me aPM with your e mail address and i will forward details.

Goober1979 · 05-11-2011, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin2011

I am considering rebuilding my injector pump myself. I am a fairly mechanical guy. I am an HVAC tech. I was changing my engine out in high school for fun. I have a couple of questions
Thanks for all the pics and tips.

How would you rate the difficulty level on this?
I ordered a repair manual for the injector pump- did you use one?
I have a BD154 engine with a CAV injector.
Where did you get the repair/ rebuild kit?

Thanks

Well, difficulty would depend on what shape your pump was in. I didn't have to replace any hard parts, just seals and gaskets so, my job was about a 4 out of 10, I'd say. Even if you have to replace hard parts, I don't think it would be very hard, I think the difficulty comes in calibrating the pump if its found necessary. Just take pictures and notes for EVERY step of the disassembly. I used a combination of 3 different "manuals". I found all of them in PDF format online for free. I will try and find the links for you. One of them was just a chart showing proper gov spring placement. That said, I would prefer to have the manual on CD that cyrush is selling instead of my "pieced together" manual. As for the re-seal kit, I made contact with a guy that works in a local pump shop. He sold me the kit and gave me the torque specs for all of the pump fasteners. I also advise buying or borrowing an inch/lbs torque wrench. "Close enough" wont do on this (or any, I guess) pump.

Let me know how it goes if you decide to do it. And I DO recommend doing it yourself. And let me know if you need help. I'm no expert, though.

Kevin2011 · 05-11-2011, 07:50 PM

Thanks gents I have ordered a paperback manual. I hope to get it in the next week or so. Also the diesel repair shop here said he would order the gasket kit for me. I have seen them online for $25 to $55. I hope he is in the ball park. I gave him my pump to give me a price to rebuild and he said $690 with no major repairs. Seems awful high to me. I could buy the inch/pounds torque wrench and a gauge set for a lot less than that.

Did you have to calibrate your pump or did you just leave it where it was at?

Goober1979 · 05-12-2011, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin2011

Thanks gents I have ordered a paperback manual. I hope to get it in the next week or so. Also the diesel repair shop here said he would order the gasket kit for me. I have seen them online for $25 to $55. I hope he is in the ball park. I gave him my pump to give me a price to rebuild and he said $690 with no major repairs. Seems awful high to me. I could buy the inch/pounds torque wrench and a gauge set for a lot less than that.

Did you have to calibrate your pump or did you just leave it where it was at?

I paid $25 dollars for the reseal kit and a stud and acorn nut for the gov cover so if you get charged alot more than that, your getting ripped. To me, $690, although about average if you call around, is WAY too much for this job. If I understand correctly, your paying so much because they have the equipment to calibrate and there is a general view that the job is so delicate that only "qualified" pump specialists can do it. While some of that IS true (the tolerances between the pump parts are VERY small. So small, in fact, that the friction from a drop of water may as well be sandpaper. Plus, even the slightest variation in calibration can cause a large difference in performance.) it can be done shadetree style if you are careful. I did not calibrate my pump for 2 reasons: 1) I simply could not afford it. and 2) I was 99% sure that I reassembled the pump exactly like I found it. Here is why I was sure - Look at the 14th picture in this thread. That picture is looking down on the hydraulic head rotor/drive plate assembly. In that picture you can see the adjusting plate (shiniest part in the pic). The position of the adjusting plate controls how far the plungers move outward in the rotor and thus, how much fuel is injected per injection. If this plate is not in the correct position you will inject too much or too little fuel. On my pump, the plate had worn(?) a "shadow" into the rotor so that upon reassembly, I just matched the plate to its "shadow" in the rotor and it was put back where it had always been. There is a procedure for doing that same thing based on some markings in the drive plate but I had no need for that. I will say that I was taking a chance that the tolerances inside the hydraulic head and between the plungers an plunger barrels where within spec but again, I could not afford to do otherwise.

Kevin2011 · 05-12-2011, 07:33 PM

Ok well thanks for the info. I will post more about it when I do the rebuild- that is after the manual shows up and after I get a seal kit for it.

And yes I plan on taking lots of pics

Kevin2011 · 05-14-2011, 12:12 PM

I GOT MY TRACTOR STARTED!!!!!!

I took apart the top cover ONLY and sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner in there and everything started to loosed up, Drained the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter purged everything and now she runs!!!

Now I have work to do on the electrical and the hydraulics

michael1950 · 11-20-2011, 10:52 AM

Question about my B414, I was running it to day and it started loading up. I have no Throttle response now, opened the bleeder on the injector pump and it got R.P.M.'s up and when I throttled it down. It stalled out, I replaced the upper throttle gasket a few weeks ago and the filter in the injector pump. Any one have any ideas, Thank you

Kevin2011 · 11-21-2011, 04:15 PM

I have been using my tractor now since May and I can't believe the help it is with the horses, wood pile, lifting things in general, my dirt road, and on and on. What a blessing.

michael1950 I am still green at this but may I suggest doing a proper purge of the fuel system. Open the bleeders until full and open each injector connection to get all the air out. I think I read somewhere that this is critical

good luck

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