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bigkev · 10-09-2011, 06:20 PM

Hi Guys,

I'm brand new to the forum and have loads of questions. I'm 51 and live in central NJ.

I've been looking for a JD 318 on and off for about a year. When I saw a 49 inch snow thower on craigslist for $500 I called even though I had not bought the tractor yet. In talking to the guy he told me it was off the 318 at his father in laws 20 minutes drive from me. I asked if the tractor was for sale, and he said it was parked and had not been turned on in 4 years. He than said, and this is no BS, since his FIL was moving and wanted it gone I could probably have it for free. When he had not called me in a few days, I contacted him and than got in touch with the FIL. Long story short, It's in the bed of my F250, with a 54" deck and wheel weights since Friday. I found the hours meter today (thought there wasn't one since it was not on the dash), 443hrs. He had had a compact Kubota with a loader, we pushed it up a couple of boards after first removing the deck to get it in the truck.

So, what should I do before putting a battery in it and turning the key?

Thanks

Kevin

BelarusBulldog · 10-10-2011, 03:56 AM

Welcome to the site, bigkev. Sounds like a good find! Did you get it for FREE after? Before starting, I would take the spark plug out and pour in a little oil and let sit for awhile. After four years of not running, you might have to replace the V-belts too. Don't be alarmed if, when you first start up, lots of smoke from the oil burning off. Good luck and post some pictures of your treasure!

ggsteve · 10-10-2011, 06:30 AM

Did you turn the knob under the seat to the "freewheeling" position before you pushed it with the Kubota? I would make sure that is done before I pushed it any farther or you risk damage to the hydro.

Mickey · 10-10-2011, 10:17 AM

Sounds like a good find.

* I'd change the oil and filter.
* Pull the plugs, put a small amount of oil in the plug holes. Let sit for a while.
* Drain all the old gas out of the tank. replace with fresh.
* Check all the fuel line and replace if any cracking noticed.
* Replace the fuel filter.
* Insp for oil in the trans. There is a sight tube located on the back and seem to recall it is on the right side. You might want to see if this tubing is cracked and replace if it is. Might be a good idea to just replace anyway as I'm sure it will be very hard and brittle.
* Remove the carb and remove the float bowl and see what kind of crud is present. Clean and reinstall.
* Now that oil has had a chance to settle in upper cyl, connect a good battery and turn the engine over. This will help circulation of fresh oil. While cranking, check for spark. NOTE, both plugs fire at same time, make sure both plugs are grounded when checking for spark.
* If no spark noted, remove cover for points and insp. Quite possible an oxide coating has developed on the points. Clean points with very fine emery paper. retest for spark.
* Now time to turn engine over enough to see, check for fuel getting to carb.
* If you have spark and fuel, I'd reinstall plugs and try to start.

Good luck and keep us informed how things went.

bigkev · 10-10-2011, 04:23 PM

completely free, what about the carb? at least clean it?

bigkev · 10-10-2011, 04:27 PM

no we didn't. there was a sticker on the frame with a bar nearby saying to push manually with a down arrow, couldn't get it to stay down. he more or less picked up the tractor by putting the rear wheels in the bucket so it rolled on front wheels only, altough there is some fluid in the bed of my truck today. none all weekend while parked on flat surface, but since I parked in driveway yesterday with about a 30 degree incline.

bigkev · 10-10-2011, 04:29 PM

Thanks for the info, really looking forward to starting it up, I'll post pics soon.

Alleykat · 10-10-2011, 05:56 PM

Good find. Mine was sitting for 3 1/2 yrs. Follow the good folks advice. Give a good look over fluids, plug, air cleaner and my best guess is belts will need replacing. The move to "freewheeling" to move probably needs a can can or two of your favorite rust remover(WD-40, etc). The linkage ends at the front of the transaxle as a slide linkage that depress back into the transaxle. The transaxle drive belt is a real bear to get in correctly on the first try. As you look at the main shaft(engine) from the underside; the belt leaves the right=hand side towards the back. At the taransaxle fan, it travels to the underside before looping around the idler pulley. If you get it on backwards, like I did, it'll run backwards, ie FWD=REV and REV+FWD. Enjoy the machine
Alleykat

Mickey · 10-11-2011, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alleykat

.... The transaxle drive belt is a real bear to get in correctly on the first try. ......
Alleykat

transaxle drive belt??? This is a JD 318 and they had a shaft drive between engine and transaxle. Did use a belt drive between engine and mower deck.

bigkev · 11-10-2011, 07:06 PM

Dropped the tractor off at local landscape place. He worked on it for an hour, said the wiring has a short in it. he started it by hot wiring it. Good news is Carb linkage moves freely, starter works, engine runs for a few minutes with starter fluid in carb.

I took it back to work on it in garage, saw a thread here with a list of 85 things to do, will probably do most, not taking the engine apart to clean carbon off the pistons (only has 443 hrs). Author suggested Seafoam transtune and when I researched it, many said by freeing up gunk their trans start having problems so probably skip that as well.

Hydrostatic relief valves allowing me to push manually are not functioning, stuck and lever won't depress them. Sprayed with PB Blaster (carefully avoiding plastic) and still stuck.

I'll post pics soon, looks rough now. Ordered battery, Interstate MT22F, $110, more than the battery for my F250, ouch.

Mickey · 11-11-2011, 10:50 AM

Not sure why one would want to put any cleaner in the HST. Uses a thin hyd oil and unit has an oil filter to trap any solids. Should be no "gunk" in either the trans or diff. As I mentioned previously, I'd give a close look at the sight tube on the right side of the diff. Mine got so stiff it cracked and leaked all the oil out. You may need to pull the check valves out from the trans to get them freed up.

I can post pics of the major subassys and electrical schematic if needed.

bigkev · 11-11-2011, 10:26 PM

Thanks for the info and the offer of schematics. I bought a tech manual on CD off ebay, 10 bucks, hopefully it will have what I need, if not, I'll take you up on your offer.

Valves have not freed up any, probably will pull them. My theory is if I pull valves, I will have "released" transmission and can push tractor.

**jhngardner367** · 11-12-2011, 12:44 AM

DON'T pull the valves!You could damage the o-rings/seals.Spray them with pb blaster,and use a pencil-type engraver,set on slow,on the end of the valve shaft,to vibrate it,as you try to wiggle the valve arm.This has worked on several shafts,bolts,and sleeves for me.It may take a few tries,but it won't damage anything.Once it starts moving spray it again,and work it loose.

bigkev · 11-13-2011, 01:38 PM

I figured I'd have to replace the orings but will try again with vibration and PB. Not sure what you mean by valve arms, these are check valves on the transmission. I'll attach a pic if you don't know what I mean.

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