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10-11-2011, 04:18 PM
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#1
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daniel2229
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Dayton area, Ohio
Posts: 72
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
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Blade Removal Tool
Got a new tool for the box that makes getting blades off the deck a breeze. It is the Arnold Blade Removal Tool, and it works with all walk behind and riding mowers. Sure beats the two C-clamps I used the first time I sharpened the blades.
$6.93 at Home Depot.
What won't they think of next?
Daniel
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10-12-2011, 06:32 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Lebanon, NH
Posts: 1,255
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Can you share pic.
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10-12-2011, 01:19 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: , ( The ROCK )Newfoundland Canada
Posts: 691
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts Likes Given: 18
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Yes a picture would be great. All I ever use is a 2x4 between the blade and deck.
__________________
Plowing, it's snow much fun!
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10-13-2011, 06:57 AM
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#4
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daniel2229
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Dayton area, Ohio
Posts: 72
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
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Here you go.
Last edited by daniel2229; 10-13-2011 at 07:02 AM.
Reason: for photo
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10-13-2011, 09:44 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Lebanon, NH
Posts: 1,255
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Thank you.
Just about any blade will fit
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10-13-2011, 09:52 AM
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#6
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Moderator
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lebanon, Tn
Posts: 2,879
Liked 4 Times on 4 Posts
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Is that the Blade Buster, or a different model? I had one similar but it was made from rod style steel, and slipped alot. It looks like this one is made much better than the one i had..
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10-14-2011, 07:45 AM
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#7
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daniel2229
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Dayton area, Ohio
Posts: 72
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
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I saw a photo of rod type blade remover on the web, but when I actually did a search for something else, I saw this guy. It was the only one that Dayton stores carried. However, once I found it, I didn't go out to any of the local shops like JD or Gravely which are nearby.
I torqued it down pretty good, so there was no movement. Before I used two large C-Clamps. They didn't move either, but that was sure clunky.
The opening that receives the blade is 4 inches, so it may accommodate blades larger than the one on my LTX 1040. I did not seem a tight fit, so I guess my aftermarket mulcher blades from Home Depot are not that wide.
I saw some unusual mulcher blades at Lowes that have fingers instead of sails. Has anybody used those? Are they good for leaves or just grass?
Daniel
Last edited by daniel2229; 10-14-2011 at 07:46 AM.
Reason: data
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10-14-2011, 01:41 PM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lebanon, Tn
Posts: 2,879
Liked 4 Times on 4 Posts
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Are they called extreme blades? They also make the Gator blades... TSC also carries the ones like in your picture.
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10-14-2011, 02:26 PM
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#9
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daniel2229
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Dayton area, Ohio
Posts: 72
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
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Yes, the slot at the store called them Extreme Blades.
The question is, are they any good for something like mulching spring and summer grass or shredding the fall leaves?
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10-15-2011, 01:31 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Rogers County, Oklahma
Posts: 270
Liked 4 Times on 3 Posts
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Mostly I've removed the most blades with stumps, rocks and heavy things the kids left out in the yard (you just can't see 'em all".
I put a bit of anti-seize on the hold down bolts when I install my blades and torque to spec. only had a problem with losing a blade one time and with the anti-seize I've never had problems with removing them using hand toools and a gloved hand to hold the blade.
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05-19-2012, 11:36 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 18
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That looks like Gator Blades to me.
BTW... What's the need for the tool? Not following the need.
I zip mine off with an air gun, clean the deck and flange, put the new one's on, and tighten with a torque wrench to the necessary spec. I have an old foot long 2 X 4 I use as a wedge to block the blade when tightening.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daniel2229
I saw a photo of rod type blade remover on the web, but when I actually did a search for something else, I saw this guy. It was the only one that Dayton stores carried. However, once I found it, I didn't go out to any of the local shops like JD or Gravely which are nearby.
I torqued it down pretty good, so there was no movement. Before I used two large C-Clamps. They didn't move either, but that was sure clunky.
The opening that receives the blade is 4 inches, so it may accommodate blades larger than the one on my LTX 1040. I did not seem a tight fit, so I guess my aftermarket mulcher blades from Home Depot are not that wide.
I saw some unusual mulcher blades at Lowes that have fingers instead of sails. Has anybody used those? Are they good for leaves or just grass?
Daniel
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05-21-2012, 05:52 PM
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#12
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daniel2229
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Dayton area, Ohio
Posts: 72
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
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I a compressor but no air gun. I know they are cheap. I guess I need to get one. How do you keep from over-torquing?
Daniel
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05-21-2012, 07:13 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 49
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
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The best I've found for blade retention that is quick and stays in place is a section of 3" PVC pipe inserted through the discharge chute with the blade in the pipe. Works equally well for all 3 blades.
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05-22-2012, 07:28 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniel2229
I a compressor but no air gun. I know they are cheap. I guess I need to get one. How do you keep from over-torquing?
Daniel
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I use a Torque Wrench.
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