daniel2229

I noticed the last time I mowed that the mower did not want to go my long hill at full speed. It slowed down to about half as I ran it up the grade. The hill is about 9 degrees.

I also have a shorter hill that falls within the 15 degrees maximum slope. It didn't want to go up that hill either.

It was also colder out while I was mowing. Could that have a bearing on the drive not working well?

Is there some belt that maybe isn't tight enough? I didn't think to check the belts from the engine to the pumps.

Daniel

Mickey

Would help if you mentioned which model you have. Lower end models use a vert shaft engine with belt drive to HST. Higher end models had a horiz engine with shaft drive to the HST. Knowing what you have makes a big diff on possible causes.

__________________
Yanmar FX 24D
Yanmar RS 1300 tiller
Cub Cadet 3204
48" HD mower
Bolens 1257 w/36" tiller

daniel2229

I have a 2010 or 2011 LXT 1040 with the Kohler Courage 19. It appears the crank shaft is vertical.

jhngardner367

Does it make any sounds,IE whine,or does it just seem to lose pulling power?Does it have a hydro filter,or not? With the engine OFF,push against the longer run of the belt,near the tensioner.Does it feel loose,or like there's less resistance,than normal?Does the tensioner spring feel weak,if you move it by hand? These are all things which could cause slipping/loss of drive.

__________________
" I'm busier than a one-legged cat in a sandbox!"

God gives only that which we can handle......."WHAT'S He drivin' that DUMPTRUCK for!!"

"I can't fix what ain't broke...you want I should break it?"

daniel2229

No noise, just stopped moving forward at one point on the steepest hill. Twice slowed to a crawl while going at full speed on the more gentle slope.

I have search the web all over for a diagram of what I should be looking for. Not finding anything. My manual really only shows how to remove the deck and service it.

Some sites make it sound like I have a pump, and others sound more like a CVT transmission.

Here's the kicker. I bought the Cub Cadet 1040 over the comparable John Deere because the saleman said the Cub Cadet had a stronger pump than the JD. Mmmmmmmm. Maybe they just had more Cub Cadets to sell that day.

Mickey

Just took a min to look up the features, specs.

Riding Lawn Tractor - Cub Cadet LTX 1040

This tractor comes with a CVT using 2 belts.

__________________
Yanmar FX 24D
Yanmar RS 1300 tiller
Cub Cadet 3204
48" HD mower
Bolens 1257 w/36" tiller

daniel2229

So the saleman was giving me a load-a-dung when he said the Cub Cadet had a stronger pump than the JD.

OK, so it has twin belts. I guess I need to get down under and locate them, check for slack, then tighten the belts up. Is there a danger in tightening them too much? There must aslo be an idler pulley somewhere in the mix.

The fact that the manual does not speak of the belts or give any indication of their location makes me wonder why.

A photo or a diagram would have helped.

daniel2229

I searched for more than an hour today for "adjusting Cub Cadet LTX 1040 CVT transmission" and on the third page, I found a pdf of Cub Cadet Illustrated Parts Manual.

In case the file size is too large for this forum, here is the url Cub Cadet LTX1040 Parts Diagrams

The parts do show clearly, but the method for adjusting the CVT does not. Ay least it is a step in the right direction.

Attached Images

complete cub cadet parts list.pdf (4.70 MB, 76 views)

daniel2229

Mowed today and mulched leaves. Found out that if I let up on the foot pedal and press down again the belt kicks in and the mower moves faster. Maybe it is just a matter of finessing the foot pedal when it slows down.

wjjones

The last time I had a similar issue like this the belt was stretched. I have also had the belt jump out, and run on the pulley shaft instead of the pulley. Another possible problem would be the hydro needs purging, and lube up the clutch/ brake pivot point.

daniel2229

My understanding after seeing the drawings of my chasis is that the drive system is totally mechanical; there doesn't seem to be any hydro involved. Not sure there is a clutch either, or at least none in the drawing, just the foot pedal that makes the CVT disc get narrower or wider, therefore making the mower travel faster. The drawing is not clear on how the CVT actually works. There is a lever from the pedal and a spring, but that is about you can see in the drawing. Go to the pdf in my post above.

My hope is that some mower tech will stumble onto this thread and tell me if there is anyway to adjust the belt before the next mowing season arrives. I don't want to take off the seat and just try something on my own even though I am somewhat mechanically inclined.

A pox on the salesman who told me the Cub Cadet was his favorite because it had a better pump. Turns out no pump!

Mickey

Never seeing one of these all I have to go on is the diagrams.

Looks to me like item #46 is the "clutch" Being mounted to item #49, when #49 is pivoted it either increases or decreases the tension on the long belt. Not as clear is item #47. Appears to mount to item #49 and as that pivots, it changes center to center distance with item #76 which changes the ratio between the input speed and the transmission.

I could be all wet but that is how I see the operation from the diagram.

__________________
Yanmar FX 24D
Yanmar RS 1300 tiller
Cub Cadet 3204
48" HD mower
Bolens 1257 w/36" tiller

daniel2229

Mickey,

I think you are right. The foot pedal is connected to the #46 pulley in front. Not sure what the #46 pulley directly behind it does. Maybe its just an idler. When the pedal is pushed down, it pulls the belt tight placing tension on the groove below the #76 pulley. When pressure is exerted on the belt on the bottom of #76, it forces the moveable variable part in the center of the pulley upwards creating a squeeze on the pulleys on the top which drives the power to the #45 pulley which goes down to the read end. The center of the #76 must move up and down according to the tension placed on it by the belt. When the foot pedal is in its "home" position, no tension is on the belt, and the mower sits at rest. When pressure is placed on the pedal, tension on the belt moves the variable portion of #76 up or down causing a ratio to change.

Next time I mow, I am going to crawl under to see where the long belt works its way under the seat to make sure there is no grass on the face of the pulleys from the PTO. I get lots of grass that blows out under the mower due to the fact that I am using a mulching kits. Maybe grass gets coated on the pulley in front. I am hear no squealing of belts at all, so that does make me wonder about the efficiency of #76 or the amount of stretching of the PTO belt.

wjjones

This increase, and decrease tension on the belt is what causes it to strech over time ( Wear, and tear) I just think the belt would be a part that would wear faster. As you mentioned though wet grass, and or debris on the pulleys can cause it to slip as well.. It could be a combination of the 2 factors...

phogbound

Unless something else is obviously worn or loose, just replace both drive belts.

daniel2229

Only time will tell. I'll know more when I first mow. That could be in the next month the way the weather has been here in SW Ohio.=-)

daniel2229

Well, good news! I have mowed twice and no belt slippage. Had a rough time getting up the hill the first time I mowed as my back yard had a healthy crop of wild onions, and by are they slippery! By the time I mowed the second time, the onions have died off enough that there was no problem getting up the hill.

Hope the belt stays in good shape throughout the mowing season. Will keep you all posted.
Daniel