Wishbonez51

Hello gang,

Ok I have the bug to build my very own front end loader. I have been on a couple of sites and see some really good builds. I have also been on Youtube and found a dad and his son completely deck out a garden tractor I think just like mine I will get the link to the video so maybe somebody could direct me to that kit to build or a set of plans.

My tractor; 1992-94 Craftsman Special Edition Indy 500 with an Onan 20hp twin.

In the youtube video they definately installed a hydrolic system which would work off the pully system and thats exactly what I would like to do.

So I could use some help into how and where to purchase and install the hydrolic system using my existing system.

Things needed to solve.

Hydrolic rams sizes for the FEL
Hydrolic manifold
Hydrolic pump
how the system kicks into neutral when not using levers
How to install pump

thanks for all the help and there will be plenty of pictures and hopefully instructions into how we were able to design, build and impliment my new FEL.

THANKS WISHBONE

BelarusBulldog

1/The size of your hydraulic cylinders will be determined by the distance you need to move the arms and the force required to do so. 2/Hydraulic manifold, not sure where this is used? 3/Hydraulic pump, needs to be the correct GPM at your rated speed. 4/Your "Neutral" as you call it, is simply a bypass valve built into the lever valves. When in the neutral position, the fluid simply flows back into the system. 5/How to install pump. To answer this you're going to have to supply more information and some pictures of your setup.

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Marcintosh

Thinking about this project, wouldn't it just be easier to use linear actuators instead of hydraulic's?

IH farm boy

northern hydralics has a web site with some , hydralics . when buying hydralics make shure you get open center valves . they will have your neutral position . they make closed center stuff as well and it will raise hell, if your not set up for it . use a gear pump for your hydralics there cheaper and more compact and take more punishment and have lots of flow. something around 5 to 8 gallons a minute should work pretty well if your just running the loader . you dont want to get real carried away with flow . cause you can run into cooling problems just for the fact that its hard to get a large storage tank on a garden tractor . we build trucks at work that have plows and sanders and other stuff , on 15 to 30 gallons a minute . electric actuators would work but are painfully slow , and tear up a charging system on a garded tractor if it will handle it at all .
.

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nothing runs away like a deere! If it has tires, tracks, or propellers your goin to have problems .

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IH farm boy

my dads skid loader has dual three inch cylinders on the bucket and boom i wouldnt go much bigger than that deffinetly not smaller . we can lift about 6 to 700 lbs easily with a 22 hp onan . when you look at pumps they rate them at varying rpms try to find them as close to 3600 rpm as possible but since your using a pulley system yopu can alter the operating rpm

__________________
nothing runs away like a deere! If it has tires, tracks, or propellers your goin to have problems .

cub cadet 70,73,100,1320,1640, david bradley plow and brinly hardley disk

farmertim

It is my undertsnding that normally the hydraulic cylinders are sized by cylinder diameter, rod diameter and overall extended length.
so something like 3" x 1 1/2" x 30"
I am open to correction on this
Cheers

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Einsteins theory of insanity; doing the same thing repeatedly and expecting a different result

G'day from Tim in Australia.

tractor beam

Need to factor in how much weight that front axle will handle too.

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Oh Beautiful for smoggy skies, insecticided grain,
For strip-mined mountain's majesty above the asphalt plain.
America, America, man sheds his waste on thee,
And hides the pines with billboard signs, from sea to oily sea. _______________________________________________ Some say I have a bad attitude...... "Screw them!"

Boudreaux4

[QUOTE=Wishbonez51;133246]Hello gang,

Ok I have the bug to build my very own front end loader.

WishBone, keep in mind your building a loader on a Garden Tractor,
It doesn't weigh alot thus it won't lift alot. With that being said the "Bore" of your cylinders needs to be about 2" this will give the shaft 1".
Now the most important part by far other than GPM vs RPMs is the distance where your lift rams are in relation to the pivot of your loader arms.
Lower they are more power they will have "more perpendicular to the loader arms I should say" BUT them being mounted closer to the pivot will give you higher lift.
My suggestion would be SMASH THE BUG build the loader first, then with a engine hoist etc move the loader up and down to determine mounting points.
Parker pumps are great gear driven pumps yes as said below a single gear pump 6-10 GPM is about what you need. Less the better GPM will ultimately determine how fast your loader operates. Too many GPM will make u scrap the whole idea.
And as said by others here heating probs resivor size problems etc.
Pump PSI never changes, GPM determines how fast the pump can build that pressure up in your cylinders. Worst case scenario with a pump with too little GPM is the loader will bore you to death and be very slow, but just as powerful. Northern tool sells "joystick" type valve with spring detent return to nuetral w/ nuetral bypass
All valves, cylinders, etc need to have about the same GPms.
If your familiar with PSI and CFM of air compressors and air tools? It's the same beast!! Just imagine you using Hydro oil instead of air
Hope this helps!!!!