fordman

Just wanting to talk about what happened to our TW-30. THe tractor had sat in the barn for about 2 months and then when we cranked it up it took off. pushing in the clutch would not stop it. we assumed that we would have to split it apart and see what had happened? We talked with a local mechanic and he said that he thought there was a chance that the clutch was just stuck to the flywheel. So, we cranked it up in 6th gear and revved it up pretty good and started getting on the breaks with the clutch pushed in. Sure enough, it broke free all of a sudden.

We had never had this happen before, so I thought that some of ya'll might just like to read what happend.

Has anyone else ever heard of this or had this happen?

olds

Yep, seen this happen alot especially on older tractors. (yeah, 99% of my work has been on Fords!) I had it happen on a 641 that was sitting for years. I tried pulling the starter, spraying solvent etc. It finally popped free after driving it awhile. If you idle it down you can jam it in gear. A dangerous at least IMHO way that some people I have seen do it, is start in highest gear comfortable then attaching a plow, starting it up and then engaging the plow and depress it, wait for the BANG...and hold on. I find that a little nerve-wracking and would rather either the mild pop, or doing it right and rebuilding the unit properly.

HarryG

Quite a few tractors suffer the stuck clutch disc to flywheel syndrome after sitting for long periods of time.
I'd try wedging a block of wood (like some tractor manufacturers suggest) so it partially holds down the clutch pedal thus preventing the disc sticking.

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Fordfarm

Yep! That'll happen to 'em! Had a friend who went through the barn door on one!

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BILL CROOK

I've got the same problem with my ford 3000. Did you start it in gear or start it and force it in gear ?? I've tried forcing it in gear but i'm afraid of shearing the teeth.
Bar bill

sixbales

Start it in gear (4th, 5th, 6th). Make sure you have a clear/planned path to travel, preferrably on hard surface where the brakes will work best. Get it going good then push in the clutch and stand on the brakes.

BILL CROOK

Thank ya sir --- i'll give it a try.
I have a hard road just outside my drive.

BILL CROOK

I'm not having any luck breaking the clutch loose. I've tried driving and using the brakes -- didn't work. I chained it to a tree --- all it done was dig holes. Evidently it is really rusted tigh. There is a small "inspection plate" (i'd guess you'd call it) centered under the motor / trans. Could i get to the clutch plate thru there to pry it loose ??
It is a ford 3000.
Bar bill

6thGeneration

On something small and light like a 3000 I would just split it and fix it. Could maybe get away with a good floor jack on the front, a bottle jack and stands on the back, and a real clean concrete surface. 3000 shouldn't take a near-rookie much more than a day to split after setup.

BILL CROOK

I had one reply that mentioned "break er' in two and fix". That will be my last resort --- i'm not a true "weekend mechanic". I'd have to hire it done --- many bucks. I just finished plowing (two bottom) for an hour. No luck. Those old boys in the day had it tough !!!! Can't imagine doing that, on a tractor this size (ford 3000), hour after hour --- day after day. Anyways --- while plowing, i left the clutch engaged and pushed the pedal once every minute or so. I was told this would save the "throw - out bearing". Wouldn't want to "blow" that. Should i have tied the clutch down the entire time i was plowing ??? Would that over work the "throw-out bearing ??
That --- is my question at this time.
Or ---- any other ideas ???
Thanks guys.
Bar bill