Hoping one of you experts can help me. I stripped all wiring (a real mess)and am rewiring. I"ve downloaded several diagrams from various sources and remain a little confused as to what I"m dealing with. I have a 12V battery so I"m assuming it"s been "converted" from a 6V system. Negative ground I think. I believe it still uses the three wire generator, not an alternator, but I"m not sure that"s possible?? There was no resistor coming from the coil so I"m guessing the coil is 12V. I"m understanding that there"s no "standard plan" but I"m hoping if you see the pictures I"m posting you can give me some tips or guide me to a diagram that will work.
I drove this tractor home a couple years ago when I bought it and actually put it to work a few times before I ran into troubles with engine, etc., and decided to rip into it. Attaching a few pictures of what I was working with. The charging system seemed to be OK so I know the cobbled mess of wiring somehow worked! I have a few diagrams and I'm posting the one I think is closest EXCEPT I don't see the wire from the coil... Never been really great with wiring so starting to get frustrated. Want to make her run after a complete engine rebuild before I put the sheet metal back on!
I wonder if the generator has been converted to 12v? just because it has a 12v battery doesn't mean it been converted. I guess you'll find out once you get it running again.
Regardless, here are some drawings that may help. Even if you do have a 12 volt system, these 6 volt diagrams should at least help you figure out where you should have been to start with, then you can work at the 12 v conversion.
Ps. did you polarized your regulator as it states on the box?
Pss. Looks like a fine restoration you have going there!
Thanks Pogobill. It's been a two year project so far! The regulator is what came off it. I just cleaned it up. Would a guy have to re-polarize? I'm almost thinking that this was NEVER really converted to 12V. Could be someone just slapped a 12V battery in not knowing what they were doing. I'm posting the before pictures as well. I can't find anything on the coil or VR to indicate voltage. What would your best guess be?? Still 6V? Mostly anyway?!
I'm thinking it's 6 volt by the look of that generator. Regardless, you have a great looking clean and sharp tractor there. And with the sheet metal all removed, you can really get a good handle on the wiring. If you can get it close to what it should have been, I'm sure you'll get lucky. If you are using the old parts, you shouldn't need to polarize your charging system. Finding the right colour wire is a pain, at least around here, but if you need a red wire with a black strip for instance, use a red wire and put a small wrap of black tape on it, or whatever. As long as you know what it means.
There should also be a small terminal block in the wiring somewhere so that you don't need to be jambing wires together off of the regulator like the pervious owner had. Makes for a cleaner and better wiring job. I bet there used to be one mounted in with those two screw holes just above your regulator!?!
Thanks much! I have a terminal block ordered as I agree that I'd rather not have a bunch of wires tied together with wire nuts and duct tape! I think what happened is it had a partial conversion. The coil is reversed for 12V and I'll bet the VR is 12V also since it doesn't look original. I have some numbers off the generator that I'll post also. Forgot to bring with me... If the generator is 6V original I may just go back to 6V system. I'm trying to keep it as original as possible anyway!
Check with Google.com and a tractor spare parts internet site the voltage (6 or 12V) corresponding to the model NUMBERS of the Echlin voltage regulator, the coil as well as the 3 connections relay. No ADDED resistance in the circuit generally means a 6V system.
For the high voltage coil, unscrew the red bracket and relook at it. There must be some info or number there that will tell us if 6V or 12V with or without internal resistor.
With 6V battery systems, ALL your spark plug wires should be copper. Rust on ALL important electrical connections should be brushed clean. Need that especially in colder weather.
Ideally with 6 volts systems you should also use lesser resistance COPPER spark plugs (Champion H10C or H12C), or Autolite Copper 4316. If non copper spark plugs are used, Autolite 437 (hotter) is preferable. Autolite 216 is the last resort, may be a too ''cold'' spark for 6 volts, but OK for 12 volts. I think NAPA A-526 is also a substitute, but not sure if copper tip or not. Champion 512 is the NEW number for the old H12C code.
Everything converted to 12 volts (battery, ignition switch relay, voltage regulator, coil),
EXCEPT the 6V generator.
System should work ''in practice'', but with REDUCED amps output. This means dim lighting, slow battery charging, etc.
Not sure about other effects, such as durability of 6V generator still there.
I had a "55 ford PU, 6 volt. I had the generator converted to 12 volt using the 6 volt core. I used a 12v. regulator with a voltage reducer on everything (6v. ligts, gauges, horn, heater), but the 6v. starter. The 6v. starter lasted over 5 yrs. being cranked with 12v. The generator should be marked 6 or 12 volt. By the way several people used a 9v. battery on their 6v. systems in tractors and trucks.
Diagram for Ferguson TE or TEA20 tractor (1955) with 12V generator system. Just in case the NAA 6V generator was converted to a 12 volts, or simply they salvaged a 12V generator from an old Ford car or Ferguson TE or TEA 20 to replace the 6V. Either the Ferguson ''Lucas'' generator has only 2 terminals (different design), or they are missing 1 wire on diagram. The Ferguson 12V system seems name the parts differently: regulator becomes ''relay'' and starter Solenoid switch becomes ''start switch''. Ferguson may have an England engineering design.
NAPA (Echlin) part numbers to compare your VR and coil:
6 volts coil IC7 ($48)
6 volts coil IC7SB ($23)
6 volts voltage regulator
NAPA VR950 is the A Circuit 8N-10505C replacement for the late 8N tractors
The VR951 is the B Circuit FAG 10505A (or B) (Ford part no) for 1953-1964, 6 volts gas tractors
VR953 is the B Circuit CONF 10505A for 1958 -1965 12 volts Diesel Tractors
Jaz you're a wealth of information! Thanks very much and I'll let you know how I make out! I kinda goofed in painting the coil before I found/wrote down numbers. I checked the VR but will check it again as those seem to be the real questionable items. What troubles me is that it was negative grounded with a 12V battery and no coil resistor. Seems like something would have cooked that way if it was all still 6V except the battery...