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Old 04-06-2010, 02:08 PM   #1
Nlesslove
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Help Changing Hydraulic fluid

Hello All,

Can anyone guide me through changing my Hydraulic fluid on my 8N Please?
I am a newbie and i am not an auto mechanic. I have already read some threads about how to do it, However i must admit i am still a bit confused. Here is what i know so far.. It is best to change the fluid while it is still warm to flush as much crap out as possible. There are 3 plugs on the bottom of the tractor. This I do see, but one of those plugs is underneath the motor. Would that be engine oil?
I saw someone mention a pipe plug. Can any one help and maybe include some newbie friendly pics
Any and all help is greatly appreciated. I know this one has got to be an easy one for you guys. Sorry to be such a noob.

Thanks in Advance



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Old 04-06-2010, 10:07 PM   #2
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The three plugs that you need to take out are all under your butt when you are sitting on the seat, there is no plug in front of the transmission that should be taken out. There are two big plugs and one small one. If you lay down on your back and crawl under the tractor from the rear you will see a huge plug there and then another just a ways in front of that and the small plug will come out sideways not just from the bottom. After you get all the plugs out and drain all the fluid (about 5 gallons) you then need to flush it with diesel fuel before putting new fluid back in. I have done mine quite a few times because it kept getting water in it. I finally found the cause for that was the rubber boot around the shifter was cracked and letting water in.



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Old 04-07-2010, 12:17 PM   #3
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Hello Morgan,

Thank you for the quick reply, much appreciated.
I do have a few questions.. Should the lift arms be in the up position or down when draining the fluid, or does it matter?
Also, when you say flush with Diesel after i have it drained, what exactly do you mean? How much Diesel fuel and do i start the motor once the diesel is in there, Lower and raise the lift arms etc, and for how long?

Where do i put the new fluid, the big plug by the starter button?

Also, i am having a problem steering one of my Ns to the right, almost seems like it does not want to turn to the right of course especially while the tractor is not moving.

Thank again in Advance for your time and help.

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Old 04-07-2010, 08:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nlesslove View Post
Hello Morgan,

Thank you for the quick reply, much appreciated.
I do have a few questions.. Should the lift arms be in the up position or down when draining the fluid, or does it matter?
Also, when you say flush with Diesel after i have it drained, what exactly do you mean? How much Diesel fuel and do i start the motor once the diesel is in there, Lower and raise the lift arms etc, and for how long?

Where do i put the new fluid, the big plug by the starter button?

Also, i am having a problem steering one of my Ns to the right, almost seems like it does not want to turn to the right of course especially while the tractor is not moving.

Thank again in Advance for your time and help.
I do mine with the arms DOWN.
Basically after you drain the fluid you would put something down to catch the diesel and leave all three holes open and pour the diesel in the top fill hole beside the started button. This will get rid of any loose metal shavings that didnt come out when you drained the oil. 1 to 3 gallons of diesel should be fine, you are basically flushing the metal shavings. You will not start the tractor during this process. Finally put the plug back in all three holes and pour in approx. 5 gallons of gear oil. 90weight is fine, I use 85W145 in mine but 90weight is what it calls for.
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78 acre hay farm
1965 John Deere 4020
John Deere 1209 Mower Conditioner
Woods MD 315 Batwing Bushhog
1952 8N Ford Tractor
1990 Yazoo 60" Deck with a 20 HP Wisconsin.
I work on a 1000 acre sod farm.

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Old 04-07-2010, 09:13 PM   #5
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Since you live in a colder climate, the 90 wt might be a little too thick in the winter.

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Old 04-09-2010, 09:35 AM   #6
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I purchased a 5 gal bucket of the fluid from the Ford New Holland dealer. It is not the 90w gear oil. The Gentleman said he sold me what they use in the N tractors. I was concerned it would not be the right stuff. I see some people use the gear oil and some do not.
Any thoughts?

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Old 04-09-2010, 12:36 PM   #7
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As long as it conforms to Ford M2C134D fluid, you will be ok.....

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Old 04-10-2010, 08:09 PM   #8
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Are there any gaskets for the drain plugs?

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Old 04-10-2010, 09:20 PM   #9
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Yes. You can get them through Just 8N's
It's just a simple flat circle gasket - you could even make it yourself.

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Old 04-11-2010, 09:25 PM   #10
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OK, so I drained the hydra fluid, and flushed it twice with 2 gallons of diesel before filling her back up. I removed the bolt from the inspection plate and waited to see the fluid weep out.

There was an initial blast of heavier crud when i opened the large drain plugs and some water.
I mounted a 7ft heavyduty rear blade and started to lift. When trying to lift the blade it stutters and lifts very slow. Once it reaches the max it falls back down to about half way.
That is what it was doing before i changed the fluid. Does it need a pump rebuild? Is this a job a noob like me can handle? This tractor may need more work than i thought. I would love to hear some of the possible issues this N may have. Here are the symptoms, aside from the hydraulics.

She smokes a bit (kinda white)
Trouble turning the wheel to the right, it is very tight. I do not remember this to be a problem a few months ago when I first got the tractor.
Clutch may need some adjustment or work, it does not seem to be as smooth as the other N.
On another note, can you guys tell me what the average weight is for an implemnet for an N series tractor be lifting? That 7ft blade I have is very heavy.
Thanks for all the help

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Old 04-14-2010, 08:53 PM   #11
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me too! rebuilding pump now dont know if thats it or not though. cost me just over 400$ .looks very easy to rebuild!

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Old 04-16-2010, 08:55 AM   #12
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Ok, so the weekend is here and it is the only time i get to work on the tractor. Can anyone tell me what to do next? Do I pull the inspection plate off? Not sure what to look for, or what am looking at. Does it come off easy, does it go back on easy? Please Help !!!

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Old 04-16-2010, 11:31 PM   #13
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I paid a guy to rebuild my pump. He rebuilt mine for about $400.00, a new pump cost over $800.00.

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78 acre hay farm
1965 John Deere 4020
John Deere 1209 Mower Conditioner
Woods MD 315 Batwing Bushhog
1952 8N Ford Tractor
1990 Yazoo 60" Deck with a 20 HP Wisconsin.
I work on a 1000 acre sod farm.

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Old 05-25-2013, 09:19 PM   #14
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Does this process of draining the hydraulic fluid get rid of the yuck in the pump?



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