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LadyKingFish · 08-02-2011, 01:20 PM

Hey Everyone,
My name is LadyKingFish and I hope you may be able to help me. My husband bought a 53 Ford Jubilee from a one family owner (Grandfather, father, son).
It was not abused but it was work horse. It was repaired only when needed and left in the elements.
My husband and I are wanting to give her a full makeover. I have been reading everything I can find on the internet and books. But I have a question that I haven't been able to find anywhere.

We have a leak in part EAF7007E Engine rear cover plate.
It looks as if this is a weep hole but I can't figure out to what. I don't think it should have any fluids around it to leak. Can anyone tell me the purpose for this?? and what may be wrong to cause the leak??? or if this is just the way it is suppose to be???

Thank You for any help you can provide.

**tractor beam** · 08-02-2011, 01:32 PM

Could be the photos but it don't look to major to me.

sixbales · 08-02-2011, 04:43 PM

That hole is an access port for checking timing on the engine. The timing marks are on the flywheel (which is immediately behind the port). Your picture shows the cover plate that is held in place with a screw to keep the dirt out.

Probably has some oil leaking out of the rear main seal of the engine, or perhaps the front seal of the transmission, that is being thrown up there by the flywheel. There is a drainhole with a cotter pin in it at the base of the bell housing to drain this oil out of the cavity. The cotter pin is intended to keep dirt from plugging the hole.

If you get down under the bell housing at the rear of the engine, you will see part of a cotter pin sticking out of this drain hole. Wiggle it around to ensure that it is not plugged with dirt. If there is no evidence of oil leakage out of the drainhole, shove a short piece of wire up past the cotter pin to open the drain.

LadyKingFish · 08-03-2011, 05:20 PM

Thank you both for the super quick response.

Six Bales
A very special thanks for the invaluable information about the timing mark and drain port.
I have located the timing section in the Service Manual and will have hubby on his knees looking under her as soon as he gets home. LOL
This is a take me back to my childhood project for me and I am attempting to learn all I can about her and am very glad to have all ya'll around to ask. My Grand Daddy had a Dextra and this takes me back when.....

vze55zjt · 12-28-2011, 08:24 AM

I have the same problem on my Jubilee, except worse, since the oil leaking out is milky even though I have changed the engine and transmission oil. No milky color in the engine oil after the change. Not sure about the transmission oil since it is very hard to see and I have yet to find the "check transmission oil" level hole. Can someone tell me where the overfill hole is? Thanks

timddeb · 01-04-2012, 06:00 PM

"I have the same problem on my Jubilee, except worse, since the oil leaking out is milky even though I have changed the engine and transmission oil. No milky color in the engine oil after the change."

Was there Milky colour in the oil before the change?
How long had it stood before you changed the oil, and what type of oil was it? Assuming neither of these questions present a solution:-

Do you know if the Engine is a Wet Liner type? In the UK Fords of that age were, and this is a common problem.
If it is, the "right" solution is expensive, involves a strip down and new liners, and often does not work as the sleeves won't reseat properly as the cause is corrosion caused by lack of proper antifreeze over the years. The quick and simple solution that works is to fill the radiator (not sure of the US term) with engine oil instead of water, or anything else cheap you have to hand that won't react badly with the oil in the sump. Dirty engine oil tends to have impurities that will cause bearing failures, but if you can still buy "filtro" or similar this would be fine as if the leak gets big enough to cause a problem the engine is soon to expire in any case.

Sledge740 · 01-05-2012, 05:28 AM

Fill the radiator with oil? I've never heard of that before. I've got a drum of mineral oil. I guess that would work.

timddeb · 01-05-2012, 05:50 AM

We have a lot of Fordson / FordsonMajors in the UK which invariably leak water from the rad into the sump via the liners. Experience of several of my friends convinced me it wasn't worth the strip down, hence the oil in rad solution. Make sure it's not a fault like a porous plug or similar first though.............. although oil in rad won't hurt even then.

PSJ · 01-05-2012, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixbales

That hole is an access port for checking timing on the engine. The timing marks are on the flywheel (which is immediately behind the port). Your picture shows the cover plate that is held in place with a screw to keep the dirt out.

Probably has some oil leaking out of the rear main seal of the engine, or perhaps the front seal of the transmission, that is being thrown up there by the flywheel. There is a drainhole with a cotter pin in it at the base of the bell housing to drain this oil out of the cavity. The cotter pin is intended to keep dirt from plugging the hole.

If you get down under the bell housing at the rear of the engine, you will see part of a cotter pin sticking out of this drain hole. Wiggle it around to ensure that it is not plugged with dirt. If there is no evidence of oil leakage out of the drainhole, shove a short piece of wire up past the cotter pin to open the drain.

I agree, I had the same problem until I put in a new rear crank seal. New Holland gave me the new type split seal and after installing it, the leak was worse! I dropped the pan again and re-installed the original type rope seal and it hasn't leaked a drop in 5 years. Thought you might like to know that. PJ

vze55zjt · 01-06-2012, 06:19 AM

Thanks for the help....I am still fiddling with the cotter pin solution. It would appear that by propping up the cotter pin with a long screw driver for two days, the collection of oil and water has drained out. The tractor, before I bought it, was left out in the weather so anything is possible as far as rainwater seeping in. I am not "counting my chickens" just yet....Thanks for all the suggestions and I hope that this helps the next person with the same problem.

vze55zjt · 01-09-2012, 08:56 AM

I have read at another site that spraying Carb Cleaner into the peep hole would get rid of any oily substance that may be on the flywheel and clutch plate. Does this sound like a good or bad idea? Thanks

ErnieS · 01-09-2012, 02:10 PM

It may help a bit, but there isn't much clearance for the carb cleaner to flow between the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, even with the clutch fully depressed. I'd suggest letting it dry out for a day or 2 as well. I don't think you want to be starting a fire in there.

vze55zjt · 01-10-2012, 03:07 PM

I will let it sit for a few days. Things are improving. Thanks:

vze55zjt · 01-11-2012, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ErnieS

It may help a bit, but there isn't much clearance for the carb cleaner to flow between the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, even with the clutch fully depressed. I'd suggest letting it dry out for a day or 2 as well. I don't think you want to be starting a fire in there.

Ernie: Guess who lived in Magnolia Springs and Fairhope for 25 years? I just noticed where you live. I do miss the warmer climate. Biker? I have a Honda Shadow....

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