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Old 10-28-2011, 11:56 AM   #1
dave1shere
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ford 3000, power steering problem

I am having a problem getting my power steering to work. Disassembled it to change out the oil seals top and bottom because of the leaking seal on the top. I found that my steering shaft was worn out at the top at the seal area, so I bought a new steering shaft, because of this I had to disassemble the entire steering. I have everything put back together, but I cannot get the power steering to work. I have a shop manual, and I reassembled everything according to the manual. My only question is the steering hydraulic spool has several plungers and check valves. I have tried every configuration I could, I first put it back the way the book shows. Still no power steering so I tried swapping the check valves with the plungers. Still no power steering. I have plenty of pressure from the power steering Pump, so I'm not worried about the filter being clogged or anything like that. Does anyone know if the check valves in the spool have little ball bearings in them. Well that's it for now, any help would be appreciated. I am at my wits end and Haven't been able to resolve this problem.



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Old 10-28-2011, 09:14 PM   #2
sixbales
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email me at sixbales@yahoo.com



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Old 11-15-2011, 05:16 PM   #3
sixbales
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Compliments of ultradogMN

Have a look at the photo.
Set your block so the fitting is on your right side. That's the starboard side for you land lubbers. See the yellow pencil.
There are two types of plungers in the block.
I call them the special plungers and the plain plungers.
Notice the green pencil. That is the hole where the two special plungers and two balls go.
All the rest of the holes get two plain plungers with a spring in the middle.

Additional clarification from ultradogMN:

If you set the block onto the steering column just like it sits in the picture you could load it from the top.
On the 3 holes with the plain plungers you would load the bottom plunger, then a spring, then the second plunger.
The special plungers have 'horns' on one end.
So you would load that hole with the first plunger horns up, then the two balls, then the second plunger horns down. There is no spring in that hole.
One other thing I should mention; The spool in the center of the valve does have a top and a bottom. On the inside of the spool there is a slight groove machined on one end. That end goes up.

ford-power-steering-valve.jpg  
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Old 11-18-2011, 07:32 AM   #4
sixbales
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Regarding plumbing of your power steering system:

Your power steering valve has two connection ports for the PS cylinders on each side. An UPPER and a LOWER connection.

Your cylinders should have two connections facing up. An INSIDE and an OUTSIDE connection.

The UPPER conn on the PS valve connects to the INSIDE conn of respective cylinders.

The LOWER conn on the PS valve connects to the OUTSIDE conn of respective cylinders.

Use a 7/16" Flare Nut Wrench on these connectors (to avoid rounding off the nuts).

The tubes have DOUBLE FLARE Connections. Sometimes they develop cracks/leaks, and have to be re-done. Buy a kit and do these yourself, as a shop charges too much. Kits are about $40

Hope this all makes sense to you. Let me know if you have problems.

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Old 12-10-2013, 05:18 PM   #5
cyclone30
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mr sixbales...any idea- after doing all of this, what could cause power steering fluid to pour out of the Gear Adapter housing Vent? I am positive everything is put back together as you directed. I cant for the life of me figure out why all of this fluid is going in there?

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Old 12-10-2013, 05:30 PM   #6
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I am working on a '77 ford 3600 power steering unit. I replaced a broken Gear Adapter Assembly, and of course when taking apart the valve assembly I wasn't prepared for the valves, balls and springs to fall out.. that's how I came across this thread.. after putting everything back together I now have fluid coming out of the vent,, what could cause this to happen? the only thing that I am not sure of or if it could be the culprit, is how to correctly tighten the control valve pre-load? any ideas?? the new Gear Adapter Assembly came with a new seal already installed.

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Old 12-10-2013, 08:15 PM   #7
sixbales
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Is the fluid coming out of the steering column? Give us a clue where fluid is coming from.
Use attached diagram to describe where the fluid is venting.

My manual says to use a new locknut, and to tighten locknut so all end play is removed, then loosen 1/6 turn and stake nut to locating slot in steering shaft (using a hammer and punch). My manual has a photo illustrating this procedure.

Seal #28 in the bottom of the steering column is to be installed "lips down" towards the control valve.

Seal #7 in the top of the adapter assembly is supposed to be installed "lips up" (towards the control valve).

I suspect that you have a seal backwards.

Or maybe incorrect seal. Seal #28 P/N E1NN3N632AA. Seal #7 P/N 86531349.

Or maybe a damaged seal.

Hope this all makes sense to you. Look at the bright side - You will be an expert on this subject when you get it all done.

To be honest, the control valve can drive guys crazy, without Ultradog's writeup. He is an EXPERT in many areas, but he is the ACE when it comes to power steering control valves.

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Last edited by sixbales; 12-11-2013 at 07:48 AM. Reason: Added seal P/N's. Mentioned possible seal damage.
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Old 12-11-2013, 06:58 AM   #8
cyclone30
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fluid is coming out of housing vent valve assy #11

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Old 12-11-2013, 07:07 AM   #9
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seal #7 was already installed in part #5 when I purchased it . I will double check to make sure lip on seal is up.... without a doubt fluid is getting past this seal, it appears to be forced out by the heavy constant flow out of the vent... to answer previous question, NO fluid leaks out of the steering column, ONLY getting past seal #7... I bought #5 directly from Ford.

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Old 12-11-2013, 07:48 AM   #10
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sorry about this,, Ford gave me a parts diagram and parts list,, the diagram looks to be the same as the one you provided but the #s are different. omit my previous numbers.. i will start over using your part numbers. again sorry I didn't catch this sooner.

Fluid is coming out of housing adapter vent #18.

the seal #14 was already installed in part #12 when I purchased it. I will double check to make sure lip is facing up... without a doubt fluid is getting past this seal, it appears to be forced out by the heavy constant flow coming out of the vent... to answer previous question, NO fluid leaks out of the steering column, ONLY getting past the lower seal #14... I bought #12 directly from Ford..

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Old 12-11-2013, 08:12 AM   #11
sixbales
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Your Ford dealer gave you a parts diagram for a Ford 3000. The diagram I gave you above was for a 3600. See attached diagram for a 3000, to get everyone on the same page, regarding changes. The part numbers we are talking about are the same.

Let us know how you make out.

One tip for the future. DO NOT use the steering wheel to pull yourself up onto the tractor. The steering column is not designed for lateral loading imposed when guys pull themselves up onto the tractor. You can damage seal #28 in the bottom of the steering column, or possibly break adapter assembly #5??

I have trained myself to avoid using the steering wheel to pull myself up onto the tractor. The last time I was into this steering assembly was 20+ years ago. I guarantee this practice works.

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Last edited by sixbales; 12-11-2013 at 08:48 AM. Reason: Added Parts diagram for a 3000.
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Old 12-11-2013, 01:05 PM   #12
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Here is what happened, the said 3600 was being loaded onto a trailer, everything was working just as it should until the guy driving the tractor got the right side front tire against the side of the trailer and tried steering away from the side of the trailer. that is how the part #12 got broke. the wheel against the trailer couldn't turn thus all the hydraulic pressure snapped all three of the mounting "ears" right off of part#12... this is how I came into the picture,, I was told to fix it. so I went to Ford, ordered what parts I thought it needed,,then I went thru the details above,,, all in all with your help in looking for the non-obvious- the new part#12 came with needle bearing and seal already in place from the factory... Guess what?? they put the seal #14 in upside down allowing fluid to go right past it.. this job was just completed about an hour ago, works perfect.. you were a great help in figuring this out.. I cant thank you enough for getting me on line,, I never would have second guessed the factory on this one.. thanks again-- very well explained,, hats off!!!

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Old 07-15-2014, 09:12 AM   #13
columbogid
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Ford 3000 control valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixbales View Post
Regarding plumbing of your power steering system:

Your power steering valve has two connection ports for the PS cylinders on each side. An UPPER and a LOWER connection.

Your cylinders should have two connections facing up. An INSIDE and an OUTSIDE connection.

The UPPER conn on the PS valve connects to the INSIDE conn of respective cylinders.

The LOWER conn on the PS valve connects to the OUTSIDE conn of respective cylinders.

Use a 7/16" Flare Nut Wrench on these connectors (to avoid rounding off the nuts).

The tubes have DOUBLE FLARE Connections. Sometimes they develop cracks/leaks, and have to be re-done. Buy a kit and do these yourself, as a shop charges too much. Kits are about $40

Hope this all makes sense to you. Let me know if you have problems.
I purchased Ford 3000 1966 model at auction. The power steering did not work. I purchased new pump and was not problem. I seen post on control valve and took apart and cleaned and polished all parts. I assembled back according to picture posted, which was a great help. When I started the power steering went all the way to one side and locked and is not bypassing any oil. The unit seems to be building pressure and pulling down engine at idle. Do you think the check valves are sticking in control valve yet. Let me know what you think. Thanks
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Old 07-15-2014, 04:47 PM   #14
sixbales
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Howdy columbogid,

Welcome to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum.

First thing you need to do is check your plumbing. Jack up and support the front axle for ease of manual steering. Disconnect the PS cylinder rods on both sides and support/tie them loosely with baling twine on the radius rods so the cylinder rods can extend and retract freely.

Start the engine and steer right. The right hand cylinder rod should extend and the left one should retract. Steer left and the opposite should occur. If not happening, double-check your connections between your control and cylinders.

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Old 07-16-2014, 03:03 PM   #15
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i realized this is an OLD thread, but i'm working on my steering control valve now and was looking at the comments here about assemlby. sixbales said "One other thing I should mention; The spool in the center of the valve does have a top and a bottom. On the inside of the spool there is a slight groove machined on one end. That end goes up." are you positive about that? the manual says the groove goes down. mine isn't working right so i'm thinking about trying your way to see if it's better?

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Old 07-16-2014, 03:56 PM   #16
sixbales
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Hello Jethrox,

Welcome to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum.

The grooved end of the center sleeve goes DOWN. My manual indicates the same thing.

Apparently this is not a fatal flaw in the procedure, as many guys have used this old procedure with success.

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Old 07-17-2014, 06:27 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixbales View Post
Howdy columbogid,

Welcome to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum.

First thing you need to do is check your plumbing. Jack up and support the front axle for ease of manual steering. Disconnect the PS cylinder rods on both sides and support/tie them loosely with baling twine on the radius rods so the cylinder rods can extend and retract freely.

Start the engine and steer right. The right hand cylinder rod should extend and the left one should retract. Steer left and the opposite should occur. If not happening, double-check your connections between your control and cylinders.

We did have the lines crossed at the control valve. We reversed and the power steering is working great. Thanks for the help.


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