Hey y'all- new to forum- I have a '85 Ford 1910 4X4 that was my late dad's. I've had about a year now. I used it this summer doing bush hogging without incident. Tried to use it the other day after 8" snow to scrape a driveway and lift picked up scrape blade very very slowly. I checked the hydraulic fluid and it was very milky looking. The temp outside was about 30. I drained the fluid, which had a lot of water in it and replaced hyd. filter and fluid the next day. Temp that day around 45. Let tractor run for 30-45 min. and lift would try to lift blade but would not lift scrape blade off ground. I checked the fluid again and was milky also. I drained fluid with a lot of water( I think some had frozen and had just thawed out), replaced with new fluid the next day. Temp that day was around 54. Let tractor warm up for 30-45 minutes, tried lift and the same thing. The lift tried to raise but not enough to get Scrape blade off ground. I checked fluid again, and it seemed normal colored (hopefully all the water was gone). I did loosen hydraulic lines and tried to flush out with new fluid best I could. Still just partial lift on 3ph. I read an earlier post about a model 2110 had a screen on return line from sump that had similar problems and screen was cleaned and worked like new. I have an IT Shop manual but it shows nothing of a screen on model 1910.Does anyone know anything about this or have any suggestions?? When I first drained fluid from tractor there were two plugs, one under transmission the other under rear axle. The one under rear axle acted like there was some sort of screen in botton of sump. I could slightly push up on it with a screwdriver and more fluid would run out. I was too small a hole to get a finger up there to feel exaxtly what it was...........maybe it was ice in the bottom of the sump from all the water???????................ANY help would be appreciated!!!!!!
I didn't see that you hanged the hydraulic filter on the tractor...they run about 50 bucks for my 2110 ...went thru the exact same thing till i changed hydraulic filter and all is well now....added some "sea foam hydraulic water remover" to system when i refilled hyd system....sea foam available at napa store.or wall mart...cheaper at napa.
My 1910 does the same thing. There are three drain plugs for the manual transmission. Make sure you get the hidden one under the draw bar. I suggest changing the hydrolic oil on a warm day along with the filter. This will minimize the water retained in the hydrolic oil sump. Some time I have to let the tractor warm of for some time to get the oil to work. Also try to drain all the pistons if possible when changing the oil. KC
Hi, Im wondering if anyone out there can help me? I have a Ford 1910 with a quick release female at the back for a tipping trailer. I have just purchased a log splitter with two male conectors,obviously one goes to the female, would anyone know what I should do with the return one? Is there a conversion kit? Heres hoping Rodger
Many guys install a pipe "tee" into the filler port of their hydraulic reservoir. The filler cap goes on top of the tee and the hydraulic return line goes into the side of the tee. You'll have to find a tee with the correct threads.
Does anyone out there have an owners manual for a ford 1910 compact tractor that I would be able to download ?. I have recently inherited it and would like to have a better understanding of the beast, now that I may have sorted my wood splitting issue out, thanks to sixbales. Fingers crossed Ratman
I have the same problem Pops 1910 described. Did the filter change fix the problem. Also I developed a Hydraulic leak at the line / fitting connection into the steering block. Can't tighten the fitting to stop the leak. Even took it completely apart, cleaned the pieces and replaced everything. No cross threading but it leaks worse.
Probably a cracked flare (fatigue crack) on the tube. I have had this happen several times on my 3600. Mine are double-flared. I bought a double flare kit. About $45. Cut off the old flare and re-flare it.
Attached are hydraulic diagrams for a Ford 1910 and a Ford 1900. Note that the 1910 has a a hydraulic filter and NO SCREEN. The 1900 has a large suction screen and NO FILTER.
When your 1910 hydraulics slow down, the first thing I would do is change the hydraulic filter.
If that fails to improve hydraulic performance, I would check to see if your tractor happens to have a suction screen. Ford/New Holland parts diagrams are not always correct. These are Shibura built tractors, and I'm sure there were some communications problems.
Thanks to Sixbales. It was a crack on the line below the flare. Cut it and re-flared the fitting. Fifteen years ago I would have been able to see that, when I had it off the first time. Good thing I took it apart. Gave me a chance to replace some worn parts...Bushings, etc. I'll find out tonight if the filter and changing the hydraulic fluid fixes the issue with raising the lift arms on the 3 pt. Hope so... Anybody know a good site for parts? I've used Messick's with success.