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Old 02-04-2005, 04:36 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by shutt24
That is the diagram I am using. I am not for sure on the ignition switch to which color wire to attach to the top left post on the terminal block and which color to attach to the bottom post. There is a black wire and a yellow. It may not matter. Thanks.


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Old 02-05-2005, 05:42 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by shutt24
I'm at the point that I need to purchase a shop manual. Is there one out there that covers everything? I saw an IT FO4 on ebay that has 102 pages and another that only had 36 pages. Someone tell me where and what to buy. I want to be able to see diagrams of all the parts and how to sections. Hope I'm not asking for too much.
I have the Manuals on CD.. They work great for me, you can print out the parts you are working on and take them down to the shop..

http://grogansports.com/satsoft/
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Old 02-05-2005, 06:31 PM   #43
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manual

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=378&item=4525717745&rd=1

didn't see Ken's post when I posted mine.
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Old 02-05-2005, 06:36 PM   #44
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The one funkyford posted looks like it covers everything
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Old 02-06-2005, 02:18 AM   #45
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The one funkyford posted looks like it covers everything
Its the same CD, only he is also selling them on E Bay..
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Old 02-06-2005, 02:50 AM   #46
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OK i didn't hunt around long enough
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Old 02-07-2005, 09:27 AM   #47
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Thanks everyone for the tips about the manual. I just purchased the CD. I did some more work this weekend. Not as much as I would like, but I did make progress. Before I do much more I'm going to wait on my CD just to make sure I am doing things correctly.
I tore the steering apart and found that it needs new bearings in the top of the shaft and in the housing about 3/4 the way down the shaft. I also took out the valves and disconnected the motor from the tranny. Going to take the motor to a friend and we are going to go through it. Took off the right fender looks like it needs to be replaced. Almost rusted through at the bracket. Had some difficulty getting some of the bolts off, several looked like pins and I ended up just cutting them off with a grinder. Is there an easier way to get those out?




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Old 02-07-2005, 09:41 AM   #48
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Shutt!!!!

GET THAT BLOCK OUT FROM UNDER THAT AXLE!!!!!!!!!
Very unsafe, I have seen them crumble and you could be wearing a tractor. If you must use cement blocks at least turn them upright and put a piece of 2x6 wood on them. The way you have placed it is the block is extremely weak. Please find some wood blocking or buy some cheap axle stands. You are doing a wonderful job on the Ford and I for one am enjoying watching your progress, so if you get hurt it will slow down the job.
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Old 02-07-2005, 09:53 AM   #49
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The block is coming out tonight! I have another stand to go under there. I just ran out of time to change it out.
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Old 02-07-2005, 10:36 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally posted by shutt24
The avatar picture is a Carolina Panther Cheerleader. I pull for the Panthers and thought a pleasant picture to look at would be nice. I'll have to pull for the Eagles on Sunday. I'll have some more pics of the tractor on Monday. I plan on doing some more tear down this weekend.
I don't watch football, so apparently I missing a lot. I'm more of a baseball fan, and cheerleaders that looked like that would liven up baseball

Slipshod is 100% right about how unsafe using a block is under a jack, especially with the block turned to it's weakest side as you have there. Please be carefull! We all want you to finish your tractor.
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Old 02-23-2005, 06:42 AM   #51
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Thought I would let you all know how things are going. I have pulled the motor and removed everything. The block and the crank are going to the machine shop today for cleaning and checking. The governor has been rebuilt. I removed both axle housings, in process of cleaning all the brake and axle parts. Here is a picture of some of the parts I have cleaned and painted.


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Old 02-23-2005, 07:44 AM   #52
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Looks like you are a week or two ahead of me.


As foir the dash panel. Any tricks to removing it? I think I have all the bolts off [4 on the steering box] and I know the steering wheel has to come off, but I cant get it to budge. Am I missig something???
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Old 02-23-2005, 08:06 AM   #53
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Make sure you put some penetrating oil around the shaft after you remove the nut. I took a hammer and tapped around the base and it came right off. The manual says you may have to use a puller. I ordered the cd that has all the manuals, if you need a picture, diagram or instructions just let me know. I noticed you asked about getting the sleeves out. The manual says to a small flat screwdriver and cave in the sides of the sleeve. Use it like a chisel. Be careful not to damage the block. I'm going to have the shop mic mine first to see if they need replaced.
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Old 02-23-2005, 10:08 AM   #54
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sorry that came out wrong. Not the wheel I cant get off the dash itsself. Anything hiding that holds it on
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Old 02-23-2005, 11:04 AM   #55
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Seems like the battery box has a couple bolts attached to it and you have to disassemble the throttle shaft. There may be a bolt or 2 attached to the steering box.
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Old 02-23-2005, 11:12 AM   #56
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I got the battery box off, and those bolts. also the ones that went in to the steering box. I did not remove the throttle stuff yet, so that may be my problem. It looked like it all came out together.


Does that reinforcement peice come off with the dash??
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Old 02-23-2005, 01:08 PM   #57
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Yes it does. See if these diagrams help.


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Old 02-28-2005, 04:50 PM   #58
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how are you coming? The machine shop ok everything?
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Old 03-02-2005, 06:54 AM   #59
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Things have been a little slow. I've been a little under the weather for the last 2 weeks. Did not get to take the block to the machine shop yet. Just been doing some cleaning and painting in my basement. I hope to get it there next week. I want to get completely well first. Thanks for asking.


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