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Old 02-17-2005, 04:36 AM   #1
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8N engine rebuild. Many Q's

I jummped in with bolth feet!!!

After dealing with the smoking sence I have had the tractor, and just this last week it doing some STRANGE things, and making odd noises, I decided its time. Better to rebuild it now, then to wait till something pops in the summer, when I have les time, and more need for it.

Few things I have Q's about though. here is the list.......

Rebuild kits. What are my options, and were is the best place to get them?

Sleves. I have a lot of cyl wear, so I will be replacing the sleaves. How do I know if I have the cast, or thin tin ones? The searal number is REAL early[ 8N14644] but the motor has been into before, so it may have been updated.[already has the new style adjustable valves in, so someone has been in there before]

Any tips, or tricks for me? I have rebuilt many engines, but never one of these.


I have many pictures of the tear down, and I will take more of the rebuild, but have not had a chance to upload them yet. but there coming.



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Old 02-17-2005, 06:39 AM   #2
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You should be able to mic the sleeves and that will tell you what you have. The number escapes me but I think it is .4 and the thicker sleeves are .9. If you have the thinner ones go ahead and have the block bored to accept the thicker ones.

Here is a good link on rebuilds Ford N Rebuilds .

For kits and parts check here Just 8n's .



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Old 02-18-2005, 04:36 AM   #3
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Thanks PS. I had seen that site a few years ago on the rebuild, but had forgot about it.

Well, I am sending the head out today to get hot tanked, checked for cracks, and if all is well, give it a slight cleanup cut. Also I am picking up an engine hoist tomarrow morning, so I should be able to get the block off the tractor, and on to the engine stand.[Hmmm my 351W blok form my Mustang is on there, going to have to take that off also]

As for the head. How much can be saftly cut off of them? Any concerns over clearances, or being to thin?

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Old 02-20-2005, 07:52 AM   #4
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Here are some pictures....


dsc01026.jpg  
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Old 02-20-2005, 07:58 AM   #5
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Coming along nicely

dsc01030.jpg  
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Old 02-20-2005, 12:20 PM   #6
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YUCK!!!!! a bit of an oiler as you can see!


dsc01031.jpg  
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Old 02-20-2005, 12:29 PM   #7
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Here you can see a rust line about half way up the bore. Also there is a ridge at the LOWER part of the boor. Thats a new one on me. Is that common with these N's?




BTW can you tell from these shots if its the thin sleaves?

dsc01036.jpg  
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Old 02-20-2005, 12:43 PM   #8
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ready to come off..........................

dsc01038.jpg  
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Old 02-23-2005, 04:46 AM   #9
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Out and on the stand....




Biggest problem so far has been gerring the valves out. Force turned out to be the only answer

dsc01039.jpg  
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Old 02-23-2005, 04:52 AM   #10
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Here is a shot of where the Sherman combo trans lives. I have read a bit about them, but have not seen many pictures of where it mounts. Well here you go.....

dsc01040.jpg  
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Old 02-23-2005, 04:57 AM   #11
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YUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!





The last three valve holdouts. Finly got them out, but it took a LOT of time, and a fair amount of force!!!

dsc01042.jpg  
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Old 02-24-2005, 04:39 AM   #12
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NASTY wires!!!! From looking at the wires on this thing, I am suprised it ran. All the wires that have not beed replaced are cracked, corroded, or stripped bare. YOUZA!! All the wires that have been added, are just laying around, taped up, or just badly spliced, or crimped. So I will be installing a new main harness, and also rewireing all the lights so everything works, and is a bit neater, and safer.

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Old 02-24-2005, 04:53 AM   #13
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OK motor is all stripped down. I am sending the crank out to be checked/turned. With a quick mic up at home, it looks like I will need to go .030 under on the crank. As far as I can see, it seems to have been turned to .020 under at one time in its life, and now pretty groved. Any problem with .030 under on these cranks? Are there bearings avable?

I am also sending the head out for a quick skim. I dont want to cut to much, but does need a little. Also the flywheel will be going out. That also is not bad, just kinda falls under the "while its out" law.

Now I am going to haul the block to the car wash, and give it a quick cleaning with engine cleaner, and the high psi spry. I will then attempt to remove the sleaves, and get a good eyeball on the valve seats to see if they need to be replaced. So far she's going pretty smooth. Except for the valves, she has pretty much fell apart. My only REAL problem is knowing where to stop. I was just going to paint the motor, but now figure I will do the dash aera also. Now I am thinking eaven though I have some work to do on the lift aera, I might as well paint the whole thing. Guess it snowballes doesnt it?

dsc01044.jpg  
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:19 AM   #14
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Great detailed Pix. It is a documented history of what was done and available to anyone who want to buy your tractor.....that is if you ever sell it.

Can't wait to see more during reassembly.

Mark

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Old 02-24-2005, 07:50 AM   #15
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Thanks Mark

I plan to keep posting more as I make progress. Pretty much waiting to see how the crank makes out, and how the sleve removel goes, then I will order up all the parts.

Till then I will just work on clean up, and get it ready for paint.

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Old 02-24-2005, 11:45 PM   #16
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Great pictures Paul!

You look to be making good progress. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that no surprises show up at the machine shop.

Mark

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Old 02-25-2005, 04:20 AM   #17
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Thanks Mark.

I am a little scared about how the crank will turn out. I did a quick mike up on the crank, and the mains look like they have been turned .020 under already, and quite a bit of wear. I think .030 will JUST bring it in line, but will be close. The rod jernels wile not turned down as much, looking like they were done .010 under when it was last done, are REAL scored. I am hoping a .030/.030 under wil do it. I REALY dont want to have to get a new crank.

Real bad news is that my michane shop I work with has not been answering the phone this last week. Dont know if they are busy,closed, or maybe on spring vacation. I do have a number two shop that I deal with, but they are WAY down the list, and I would much rather use that one. Oh well, I will try next week, and if not, I will use the other one.

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Old 02-27-2005, 04:33 AM   #18
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I got the dash off. Thanks for the tip on the throttle linkedge. Once that was off, it came right off. I now have to clean and strip the dash pieses. Clean and paint them off the tractor, then install my new gauges.

I am thinking of instaling the temp guage also. I know the N's are not known for running hot, but I have the guage, and it will fit perfect in the lower right part of the dash[where the profmeter would be in the later tractors] I just have to figure out if I want to dril, and tap the head, or rig something else up.

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Old 02-27-2005, 04:42 AM   #19
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Not much left to it huh? I just hope I remember how this all goes together



Looks like I have a lot of cleaning to do. Pretty much decided I will paint the whole tractor sence I am here. The tin is pretty much junk, but at least the red part will look nice.

dsc01046.jpg  
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Old 02-28-2005, 04:35 AM   #20
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Well, the pile of parts is getting bigger, and bigger. Kinda hard to explane to the wife how an engine rebuild turns in to a compleate strip down.

Fenders are coming off next. then I will spend some time cleaning the parts up, and get ready for painting.



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