jbwannafish

Need some help here as I am not a mechanic and not really good at troubleshooting either. I have a 1985 2110 Ford diesel. As I began mowing my pasture, the engine just slowed down and died. It would start back up but would only run four or five seconds and then stop. I have only had the tractor a couple of weeks and cannot give you any background (inherited from deceased father). Now I have checked fuel and there is plenty in the tank. I have also had lots of problems with the tractor overheating. I have flushed the radiater twice and filled with coolent. Did not get to run it long enough to see if it was fixed when the tractor just died. Can anyone give me some place to start and trouble shoot this machine to get it to running?

tractor beam

Fuel filters first then air cleaner. Radiator fins cleared?

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sixbales

Change the fuel filter, and purge the air out of it. There should be a purging plug at the top of the filter housing. Open the plug and let fuel & bubbles flow until there are no more air bubbles coming out. If it won't start thereafter, additional purging of the system may be necessary (post back).


Your radiator fins may be plugged with chaff and debris causing the overheating problem. Pull the front grill off your tractor. Carefully clean any debris off the radiator. Take a garden hose and thoroughly wash through the fins on your radiator to remove any dirt trapped within. Also try to to wash forward from behind the radiator. Do not touch the radiator fins with the hose nozzle, as they are delicate.

Thomas

Maybe time for new thermostat or rad.cap,also rad. hose and notice it still firm.

jbwannafish

Thanks. I went out this morning and removed the fuel bowl and filter. The bowl was very dirty. I did not have a new filter so I cleaned it out best I could and replaced it. The hose from the tank to the IN side of the bowl/filter had a sludge like substance in it. I cleaned this out and then removed the two bolts on the IN and Out side of the filter. There was some sludge there also. I replaced the two bolts and attempted to start the tractor. No go. But I believe I may have gotten air into the line. If I loosen the IN bolt and turn key until fuel comes out, will this purge the line?. Also thank you and the other guys for their responses. If I get this fuel line taken care of I will work on the radiator problelm. Please advise as to how to purge.

sixbales

The first thing you have to do is to get a new fuel filter and install it.

When you removed the bowl and filter, you should have had fuel flowing out (if you failed to close the shut-off valve on the bottom of the fuel tank). If fuel does not flow freely at the filter, then you have a blockage between the filter and the fuel tank.

Your question "If I loosen the IN bolt and turn key until fuel comes out, will this purge the line?". This should be a gravity flow situation from the tank through the filter. The key should have no affect.

jbwannafish

Ok, got the filter, pruged the line and she started right up. Started bushhogging and after about 10 minutes started running hot. Will clean fins as you suggested. Have already flushed the radiator twice. May need to install a new thermostat. Will let you know how things come out. Thanks for all of your help. God Bless.

sixbales

A stuck thermostat is the most likely culprit.

You should make it a routine practice to clean off the radiator fins each time you use the tractor for mowing. My tractor always has a chaff buildup from mowing. Be very gentle with the fins as they bend easily.

jbwannafish

Ok, I have replaced the fuel filter and that problem is fixed. Started mowing and tractor ran hot. Replaced air filter and started mowing again thinking I had this thing licked. Tractor ran hot again. Going to replace the thermostat this time. I hope this fixes the problem. If not what else can it be? Water pump?

sixbales

The air cleaner will not cause overheating, but if it is plugged with dirt it will restrict air flow and cause running problems. Probably good that you changed it.

The thermostat should be the culprit.

As already mentioned in a prior post, also check your upper and lower radiator hoses for collapse or internal degradation (just squeeze them to feel for internal blockages).

When you say the engine is running hot, is it based on your temperature gauge or are you seeing radiator overflow??

jbwannafish

Both. I spoke with an old fella that works on Ford tractors and he told me that I could remove the thermostat that the diesel did not need it. Also if the thermostat does not fix the problem, could be a leak in the block. I do not have water in the oil nor any leakage around the block. I believe it is the stat. Will change out Monday. Got church and that takes up all of my time on Sunday. SixBales will keep you informed. And again, thanks a lot and God Bless.

sixbales

OK - Radiator overflow is OK as long as the temperature gauge is running in the green. These Fords will discharge coolant until an equilibrium level is achieved in the radiator. Typically one inch or so above the top of the core, and there's no sense to refill it as it will discharge again. You will learn this as you go. Your Ford was made in Japan, so it may be somewhat different.

In the old days, I would agree with your friend that you can completely remove the thermostat and it will run ok. But I've learned that higher temperatures provided by thermostats are better.

I have since learned that diesels run better with higher temperatures provided by a thermostat. Better efficiency. And you risk developing cracks in block and head with lesser temperatures. So replace the thermostat with the correct one.

Hope all of this makes sense to you. Let me know if you are confused.

jbwannafish

Ok I have received a new thermostat and installed it today. Started to mow and noticed the temp. steady going up. Had to stop. I just do not know what to do now. You ask if it was running hot on temp gauge and the answer is yes. I noticed some over flow but not much. As you may understand I am too afraid to run it on hot too long. Do I need a new water pump? Radiator? What next? The old thermostat did not look bad, wasn't rusted or corroaded. Hoses feel good, flexible. Prior to putting in the new thermostat I watched the water flow in the radiator and after sufficient warm up the water did not rise and fall in the radiator. New thermostat I did not see any rise and flow also.

sixbales

The only problems I've ever had with water pumps is the front seal & bearing going out and it starts leaking where the shaft goes through. The impeller is just heavy metal blades to circulate water. Not much can go wrong with it. So I doubt that it's the water pump.

Is your fan belt reasonably snug?? Could the belt be slipping on the pump/fan?? With the engine off, turn the fan with your hands to see if it is real loose. The belt adjustment is with the alternator mount. Don't make it too tight, as this will wear out alternator and pump bearings prematurely.

You flushed the radiator twice? Did that include flushing the block??

Have you blown out the radiator fins with compressed air, or flushed them out with water??

I started my 3600 and let it warm up to compare observations. There was no fluid movement observable in the top of the radiator.

sixbales

Is the engine oil milky?? This would indicate coolant in the oil. When it gets hot, have you pulled the radiator cap (use a rag) to see if there is air (combustion gas) bubbling out of the coolant?? This would indicate a head gasket leak. Take care as the coolant is hot.

Do you have a radiator repair shop locally?? I would take the radiator off and take it in for cleanout.

You can get a new aftermarket radiator on ebay for about $350.

jbwannafish

Well sixbales let's review. I used water to clean out the fins on the radiator. I removed all of the hoses and checked them and they are fine. I installed a new thermostat. I tightened the belt on the radiator fan. It was loose by the way. I removed the pet cock on the block and flushed out the block. I installed a new air filter. After your last post, and completing the above, I ran the tractor at 1500 rmps for 23 minutes. The gauge did not move off 1/4. I then engaged the pto and ran the rpms up to 1800 for 15 minutes. Gauge barley moved past the 1/4. Yesterday I brush hogged my north pasture with the cutting high and the rpm at 2000 in low 2nd gear. Temp stayed steady. Lowered the cutting and this put more torque on the tractor. Finished cutting after one and half hours. Temp had moved up to a little over the 1/2 mark. Seems to rise when the tractor is placed under load. Without pto engaged, temp remaiins steady and can run all day. So this is where I am. What do you think?

sixbales

Congratulations!! I think you've got 'er fixed!! Have you decided what the problem was??

My tractor goes past 1/2 way on the temperature gauge when it's working hard. But it's still in the green area on the temperature gauge. That's normal. The engine is working hard and producing a lot of heat.

Does your gauge have a green operation range on it?? On my temperature gauge the scale is green for about 3/4 of the range, and red for about the last quarter of the scale. When I see temperatures running a bit too high, I take the load off it, let it cool down and then clean the chaff off of the radiator by hand

Diesels like hard work, and are more efficient at higher temperatures.

Good luck with it!! Remember to clean the chaff off of the radiator fins after each use, and blow through it or wash through the fins to clean the dust out. I do this after every use.

fredh

I found your thread searching for a similar stall problem. I will check everything as you did. Now, I mow 22 acres in the fall (now) and my diesel overheats after about 2 hours. The proble for me is simple to solve: my 2110 has a fine screen forward of the radiator that captures all the chaff. All I need to do is clean that screen with a small branch or my gloved hand (with engine off!!!!) and as I run the machine it cools to tyhe proper range. If your 2110 doesn't have that screen you should get one. The screen holder should be in place.

Good luck.

jbwannafish

Thanks for the info. Well I cannot seem to keep the engine from running hot with the pto engaged and cutting heavy grass. I was on the tractor today for over two hours and needle stayed in range. I was plowing and not using the pto. I have the screen and I appreciate the info but that is not my problem. One day I cut for 2 hours and then it ran hot, the next day 20 minutes and it ran hot. There was no chaff. I think I might have a female tractor, very tempermental. LOL.

fredh

Ok. What speed are you mowing at. I mow 22 acres with my 2110 without over heating. I mow in 2nd/2nd gear. On flat light grass I can move to 2nd/3rd. BUT...I set steering wheel throttle high about 1/2 inch below the PTO symbol. If you are mowing at too slow a throttle setting the mower is not getting enough power and makes the tractor work too hard. Try it.