We need one more entry for Tractor of the Month!


Winner of Tractor of the Month- April - Pipertec

Tractor Forum > CUT & Big Tractor Manufacturer Forums > Case > Case 580B ck Help w/ Engine


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-29-2011, 07:18 PM   #1
Distantsmoke
Registered User
Tractors
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 47
Case 580B ck Help w/ Engine

188 Diesel My front two cylinders are not firing. I pulled the exhaust manifold and i got raw fuel running out instead of hot gases. The rear two are puffin' pretty good. I shot a laser thermometer into the exhaust ports and the rear are over 100deg but the front two are still staying in the 60deg range and raw fuel is dripping from the ports. I cleaned the bottom half of those two injectors and blew them out so they are not plugged up. What should I check out next??


__________________
"A man should only do half a days work...and it's up to him which 12 hour shift he takes"
Distantsmoke is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2011, 03:40 PM   #2
tractor beam
ENGLISH SPRINGER SPANIELS
 
tractor beam's Avatar
Tractors
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Hoodoo Valley, Idaho
Posts: 5,449
......Valves? Thinking that the compression is low? Glow plugs are working I gather?
__________________
Oh Beautiful for smoggy skies, insecticided grain,
For strip-mined mountain's majesty above the asphalt plain.
America, America, man sheds his waste on thee,
And hides the pines with billboard signs, from sea to oily sea. _______________________________________________ Some say I have a bad attitude...... "Screw them!"
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

tractor beam is offline  

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2011, 04:44 PM   #3
Distantsmoke
Registered User
Tractors
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 47
Does the 188 Diesel have glow plugs? Where are they located? I'm completely new to this whole tractor/diesel world, I know just enough to get myself into trouble but not enough to get out!!

I looked through the manual and didn't find anything on glow plugs, just the engine heater controled by the 1st position on the key. It mentions a 1200 watt engine pre-heater but no glow plugs.
__________________
"A man should only do half a days work...and it's up to him which 12 hour shift he takes"

Last edited by Distantsmoke; 04-04-2011 at 04:55 PM.
Distantsmoke is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2011, 05:53 PM   #4
rsmith335
RICK THE PLUMBER
 
rsmith335's Avatar
Tractors
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 988
I'm with TB. Hope it's just valves. Do you have fuel in the oil? And if you are real lucky it might be screwed up injectors, not atomizing the fuel for combustion, leaving raw fuel. Check it out quick, a injector spraying a stream of fuel on the clyender wall will cut a grove the in wall- big bucks for over haul. Good Luck:
rsmith335 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2011, 10:47 PM   #5
caseman-d
Registered User
 
caseman-d's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,026
Pull the injector and then hook it back up so it shoots out side and see if the injectors are spraying and popping correctly. Or you may take them to a diesel injector repair place and let them do a pressure test.
caseman-d
caseman-d is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2011, 09:08 PM   #6
Distantsmoke
Registered User
Tractors
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 47
Thanks for the advice guys I'll check out those injectors right away.
__________________
"A man should only do half a days work...and it's up to him which 12 hour shift he takes"
Distantsmoke is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2011, 07:05 PM   #7
Distantsmoke
Registered User
Tractors
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 47
OK guys, i pulled the tappet cover to find that 2 push rods were bent and not even under the rockers. Both were on the intake side so the cylinders were not getting any air at all. I believe the problem may have been neglect because all of the rockers are waaaay out of adjustment. I would estimate about 5/32+ valve lash, don't know what specs should be but that seems extreme to me.

Do I have to pull the water pump assembly to get the head off or just pull the long bolts that go into the head at the front just below the goose neck?

Thanks for any help or tips for what i am about to do...I really appreciate the help guys.
__________________
"A man should only do half a days work...and it's up to him which 12 hour shift he takes"
Distantsmoke is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2011, 11:08 PM   #8
rsmith335
RICK THE PLUMBER
 
rsmith335's Avatar
Tractors
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 988
Wow! I would be looking at every thing, kinda scary when you find that kind of neglect. Best of Luck
rsmith335 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2011, 11:31 AM   #9
bstrang4
Gibson Collector
 
bstrang4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: louisville, ky
Posts: 30
Bent pushrods would indicate that the valves have contacted the pistons. The head should come off to check for bent valves and/or valve guide damage. Extreme carbon buildup can cause this as can someone using starting fluid incorrectly.
bstrang4 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2011, 02:03 PM   #10
Distantsmoke
Registered User
Tractors
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 47
I am definatley pulling the head, i am hoping that the push rods are the end of the broken parts.....I'll keep you guys up to date on it..got out of work early so i will be working on it tonight yet.
__________________
"A man should only do half a days work...and it's up to him which 12 hour shift he takes"
Distantsmoke is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2011, 07:56 PM   #11
Distantsmoke
Registered User
Tractors
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 47
OK I pulled the head off the 188 Diesel. The valves are all in good shape as well as the pistons and the sleeves. I believe the head gasket failed because I have oil in the water system and nasty sledge everywhere. I plan to replace the bent push rods and put new gaskets in her and start bolting her back together. I will obviously change all the fluids and filters and lube anything that moves and then lube anything that is next to something that moves

Anyone with greater wisdom please stop me before my lack of patients makes it worse
__________________
"A man should only do half a days work...and it's up to him which 12 hour shift he takes"
Distantsmoke is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2011, 11:36 PM   #12
Distantsmoke
Registered User
Tractors
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 47
Had time to clean up the head and much to my suprise it looks like a large cast iron boat anchor.

At each of the ports for the injectors there are multiple cracks that look as if someone used a very large hammer and tried to drive the injectors right down through the head. One is cracked right into the valve seat. I don't expect to find another head for this antique so i will probably fire up the TIG and start replacing bad with better. Any tips tricks or miricle info would be greatly appreciated at this point. My first thoughts were to haul the whole thing down to the PADNOS yard and cash it out for scrap. I guess I got nothing to loose at this point so I'll try to repair the head myself, I was told by the sellor that the motor was overhauled not too long ago.....B S no doubt. The wife is much less than humored at this point. Really, I'll be hoping for some wisdom from those in the know about head repair. I just have too many irons in the fire right now to spend any money on it so it will have to happen in house.
__________________
"A man should only do half a days work...and it's up to him which 12 hour shift he takes"
Distantsmoke is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2011, 10:16 AM   #13
bstrang4
Gibson Collector
 
bstrang4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: louisville, ky
Posts: 30
I would save up for a used head from a tractor salvage yard. Welding is a bad idea as it will cause further cracking in the cast iron. The only way it might work is if the head was oven heated before welding and the head was gradually cooled back down in the oven over several hours.
bstrang4 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2011, 12:56 PM   #14
BelarusBulldog
Registered User
 
BelarusBulldog's Avatar
Tractors
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: , ( The ROCK )Newfoundland Canada
Posts: 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by Distantsmoke View Post
Had time to clean up the head and much to my suprise it looks like a large cast iron boat anchor.

At each of the ports for the injectors there are multiple cracks that look as if someone used a very large hammer and tried to drive the injectors right down through the head. One is cracked right into the valve seat. I don't expect to find another head for this antique so i will probably fire up the TIG and start replacing bad with better. Any tips tricks or miricle info would be greatly appreciated at this point. My first thoughts were to haul the whole thing down to the PADNOS yard and cash it out for scrap. I guess I got nothing to loose at this point so I'll try to repair the head myself, I was told by the sellor that the motor was overhauled not too long ago.....B S no doubt. The wife is much less than humored at this point. Really, I'll be hoping for some wisdom from those in the know about head repair. I just have too many irons in the fire right now to spend any money on it so it will have to happen in house.
DON'T weld it yet! Take it to a machine shop that does cylinder heads and ask them for their opinion. If they say nothing can be done with it, go ahead and try to weld it yourself. Then you will have NOTHING to lose!
__________________
Plowing, it's snow much fun!
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

BelarusBulldog is offline  

 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2011, 09:14 PM   #15
rsmith335
RICK THE PLUMBER
 
rsmith335's Avatar
Tractors
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 988
Quote:
Originally Posted by bstrang4 View Post
I would save up for a used head from a tractor salvage yard. Welding is a bad idea as it will cause further cracking in the cast iron. The only way it might workow it's going is if the head was oven heated before welding and the head was gradually cooled back down in the oven over several hours.
You need to find a old timer that knows about the oven process, it can be done. It takes alot of time. Let us know how it's going.
rsmith335 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2011, 09:14 PM   #16
Distantsmoke
Registered User
Tractors
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 47
Thanks for the input guys..I'll check out the pre-heat process and follow that rabbit hole for a while..not alot of 188 heads layin around in better condition then the one i have. I helped with a cracked case weld many years ago...held a torch along with 2 other guys while a third welded the crack. i was quite young but remember that i was told if i let that heavy torch down i'd get smacked in the head...one of the other guys kept reaching over to my torch and moving me further and further away after the welding was done until we were able to let it cool down on it's own. I guess they couldn't fit the whole case into the oven!!
__________________
"A man should only do half a days work...and it's up to him which 12 hour shift he takes"
Distantsmoke is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2011, 09:35 PM   #17
rsmith335
RICK THE PLUMBER
 
rsmith335's Avatar
Tractors
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 988
Sounds like you know what your up against. A lotof real heavy machenery is repaired that way. I would go for it! Good luck, let us know how it works out. Thanks Rick
rsmith335 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2011, 04:12 PM   #18
Distantsmoke
Registered User
Tractors
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 47
Here are my thoughts...
I plan to weld up a steel box for a furnace. I have an electric heat/blower from a commercial bath fan/heat unit. I plan to use charcoal with the fan unit blowing into it to increase the temp and when the charcoal burns out the heater will provide heat for the cool down process. I am thinking that if i bring the whole head up to 500-600 deg before welding it won't crack any more. I have to do some checking into what rod to use with my TIG to stitch her back together.
__________________
"A man should only do half a days work...and it's up to him which 12 hour shift he takes"
Distantsmoke is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2011, 04:18 PM   #19
Distantsmoke
Registered User
Tractors
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 47
Hey Bulldog, i will check with a machine shop before I start on it as you have suggested.
__________________
"A man should only do half a days work...and it's up to him which 12 hour shift he takes"
Distantsmoke is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2011, 04:56 PM   #20
BelarusBulldog
Registered User
 
BelarusBulldog's Avatar
Tractors
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: , ( The ROCK )Newfoundland Canada
Posts: 691
Be sure to let us know how things turn out. I love following along on projects like this.


__________________
Plowing, it's snow much fun!
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

BelarusBulldog is offline  

 
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Some useful facts about diesel. tractor beam Petroleum, Oils, Lubricants, Additives, Chemicals 22 05-13-2012 10:30 PM
tired engine on 4450 rancherman John Deere 2 03-01-2012 06:30 AM
Case 730 engine in pickup truck - want more HP Biodieseler Tractor Pulling 6 07-07-2011 10:08 PM
Case 1957 Tractor/ Engine Knocking noise Napolean046 Repair & Technical Discussion 0 02-02-2011 03:53 PM
A Case Tractor’s Story Keith A NNY Case 2 01-03-2011 11:23 AM

FOLLOW US ON
PHOTO OF THE DAY
after painting in my basement