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Old 10-04-2004, 02:22 PM   #21
Tractor Nut
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This is all I could find right now and it's not much help, I'll look again later.

http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/intro.htm



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Old 10-04-2004, 06:25 PM   #22
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Everything I've ever heard indicates that hydros are a bad choice for pulling. The pump just doesn't put out enough pressure to pull the serious weight.



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Old 04-06-2010, 12:56 PM   #23
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i run allis b-10 and a simplicity landlord 2010. its not the hp to be concerned about. its were you put the weights and body movement on the tractor. we beat the cubs around here all the time.

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Old 07-25-2010, 03:15 PM   #24
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I have a 1966 cub

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Old 07-25-2010, 03:30 PM   #25
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This my 66 cub,Mama Tried in the 12 horse stock atlered class 950 pound.This night I pulled 244 and 6.Took first place.Running alky fuel.One of the county fair fulls we have done this year.
Both my pullers,Mama Tried and Red Fever 3
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:34 PM   #26
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Hello All! Been lurking for a bit and decided to chime in on this one. My experience pulling garden tractors is about 25-30 years back, and I do remember that the early hydros were fairly easy targets. Our competition ranged from the Cubs to Wheelhorses, and Bolens models. Depending on the setup and weight class, they were all pretty tough to beat. We started with an Allis 110, then went to a B-210 Landlord, a 1968 model. After retiring it from pulling, my Mom mowed with it for another 20+ years. I still have it (pic attached) and have started the restore on it. So far, the engine has been rebuilt (interesting story in itself) and I had to install a new governor, due to the gear shaft breaking. Transmission is in good shape, but leaks just a bit. Mower deck and drive hardware have all been rebuilt with new parts or fabbed replacements. Next step is new paint and decals. The yellow on it is not the original, we had a body guy for a neighbor (also a puller) who shot it for free. The "WHIP" decal is for both my Dad and my nickname. Not sure whether to go back original or stay with the bright yellow, since that is how I'll always remember it.

But, back on original topic - I think I would search Craiglist or Ebay to see if I couldn't land one of the older, non-hydrostat tractors and either rebuild or put a new engine on it. Either way, it sure is a lot of fun.

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Old 03-25-2011, 08:15 PM   #27
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^^^ nice little Allis, there !

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Old 04-01-2011, 08:44 PM   #28
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^^^ nice little Allis, there !
Thanks! Had it for a very long time...
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:32 PM   #29
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pullers

DON'T use the hydro! They're designed to bypass oil if the pressure/torque is too high,and they just shut down!A lot of the pullers I've seen,here,in Michigan,are using the dual-ratio sears gt18 trans.They must be strong enough, because one of them was running in the Unlimited class,and was powered by a 105hp motorcycle engine!One of the guys told me that they like the dual-ratio,because they can change ranges,if one doesn't pull as well on a certain track.It's worth a try,anyway!

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Old 05-16-2011, 10:40 PM   #30
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Duel Range trans are tough

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DON'T use the hydro! They're designed to bypass oil if the pressure/torque is too high,and they just shut down!A lot of the pullers I've seen,here,in Michigan,are using the dual-ratio sears gt18 trans.They must be strong enough, because one of them was running in the Unlimited class,and was powered by a 105hp motorcycle engine!One of the guys told me that they like the dual-ratio,because they can change ranges,if one doesn't pull as well on a certain track.It's worth a try,anyway!
Hey guys. Been pulling Sears Suburbans and Ropers for a while, and been finishing in the top 5 out of 26 or so tractors. I'm the only one running them. Everyone else has Cubs and Wheel Horse. Run 16HP twin Onans and 20HP twin Onans on them, and they do very well. I run it in Super Stock Class against 25HP twin Kohlers on Cubs and keep up farily well. I'll post some pics soon.
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:16 PM   #31
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and what do YOU think we were thinking??????
Now I don't have to say it

And I have to say this gets the wheels a turnin. This might be a lotta fun. AND cheaper than a NASCAR!
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:55 AM   #32
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posi traction

I was wondering if anyone knew how to make a cub cadet posi traction. I have a 129 and its only one wheel and I want it to be posi. I dont know if you can weld the rear ends or what. Just please answer me because i have a pull next week end and i want it posi by then.

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Old 10-07-2011, 02:57 PM   #33
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My son has been running a 1969 ss12 sears that used as much oil as gas and still placed often. With proper weight placement you go far with any 70s or earlier tractor. cast iron engines are more stable under the stress. A light tractor lets you distribute weight where necessary. we have a video on you tube ss12 pulls forklift its a 6 ton + machine. we also have a cadet 111 lawn tractor thats doing well ie full pulls and some first and second place standings against wheelhorse johndeere and craftsmans. do your research experiment O and dont go hydro there good gaming tractors not pullers. the pumps arent made to handle it. the ss12 weight was 610 lbs as I recall we had it entered in a 2500lb class we only could get 2300 lbs of weight on it and were only 1 inch behind the jd tractor with a rebuilt 14 hp kohler

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Old 10-14-2011, 12:11 AM   #34
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I have been wanting to build a garden tractor for pulling in competitions. And it seems everybody is using a Cub Cadet with a kholer engine as the base tractor to start with. I assume that has to do with the drivetrain that it uses.

What I am wondering is there any other garden tractor besides a Cub Cadet that would make a competitive puller? Any ideas?
You are correct in your assumption of drivetrain and Cub Cadet tractors. The clutch setup seems to be a little (or a lot) more favorable for pulling, in the Cubs. The Sears line of early Suburbans and Super Suburbans have a very heavy frame, and make great pullers in the stock classes, in my opinion. These tractors use a belt drive, though....which makes it tricky to find the right combination of pulley/spring tension/lever/belt and gear ratio. If you can find that combination, which is a small window, then they pull pretty good. In our club, the top three tractors (in Youth stock) are a John Deere, a Cub Cadet, and a Super Suburban.
Me, if I wasnt hard headed and already running the Sears....I'd lean toward the Cub. After that, if I had a good deal on a Deere, as bad as I hate to say it, I'd probably go green.
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:18 AM   #35
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Exotic plant nursery

How do I organize value engineering function in a tractor manufacturing firm?

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Old 11-30-2011, 10:56 AM   #36
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Nothin' runs like a Deere! Dude... get a diesel

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Old 12-22-2011, 10:41 PM   #37
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Just about any old tractor (pre-1975) can be built to pull. We have three that we ran last year, our first year of pulling, that we had a lot of fun with. A cub 125 that my son runs, an 857 Wheelhorse, and a Simplicity/Allis Chalmers that is painted to look like Moline. The Cub is a hydro and has won more money than the other two combined. In fact in the last pull of the year that little 12hp Kohler out pulled the adult 850 turf tire class by 20ft. Balancing the tractor and getting the power to the ground seems to be the trick.

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Old 12-23-2011, 06:10 AM   #38
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Thats having to much fun right there.

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Old 01-18-2012, 07:17 PM   #39
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Welding Differential

I have a international 1282 as seen in my profile picture, i was wondering if it would be a good idea to weld my differential so i have all-time possie traction? Would this be smart for pulling?

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Old 01-27-2012, 10:10 AM   #40
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Tractor Pullll!



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