chinmusic8

Tractor was runnin fine. Stopped to run inside for a drink. Came back out and it wouldn't start. Acts like it isn't gettin juice, hour meter won't even come on. Battery has 12V on it, even when the ignition is turned (brake is down and I'm sittin on it). Not sure how to check it with a load on it.
The deck does need to be cleaned but it isn't awful.
Extreme novice with motors, but I did put a meter on the plug goin to the starter and it's gettin 10 or 12 volts (sorry, can't remember exactly). then took the starter out and checked it for continuity. Meter sings when the switch is on. Checked the B, S and A1 circuits.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

wjjones

I hate to ask, but is the pto to the deck pushed in? Disengaged..

chinmusic8

Sorry...
Yes, the deck is not engaged, PTO is pushed in and it has gas in it. All connections seem secure. And thanks for replying to my post.

chinmusic8

Would anyone be able to tell me how I could check the solenoid??

stickerpicker

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Well chinmusic8 I'm not much on this new type of equipment but from what I've experienced there are two styles of solenoids. They both function the same, when working correctly, by the electromagnet internally being energized and closing a high amp switch that is located within the solenoid.

The two styles - one style has two small wires - one wire from the battery positive and the second small wire goes to ground (tractor frame usually) which completes the circuit to the negative battery terminal energizing the internal magnet and closing the switch.

The second style has only one small wire from battery positive and the solenoid case being bolted to the tractor frame completes the circuit to ground and therefore to the negative battery terminal.

A test jumper wire (or two) from the battery to the small solenoid terminal (s) should close the switch and supply current to the starter.

chinmusic8

Hey thanks. I'll certainly give it a shot. Also, gonna double check the wiring and make sure it doesn't have anything to do with the seat cutoff switch.
Any other ideas from anyone would greatly be appreciated. And thanks in advance.

dangeroustoys56

Also check the inline fuse from the battery to the ign switch - sometimes those pop for no reason .

Country Boy

The seat switch shouldn't affect the starting circuit. Your starting circuit consists of a neutral switch or brake switch (depends on the model), the PTO switch, and the key switch. The current usually travels from the key switch through the two safety switches, and then back to another point on the key switch, then through the key switch and down to the solenoid. You can try jumping a wire from the positive battery terminal to the positive activation terminal on the solenoid. The activation terminals are the small ones that the light gauge wires hook to, not the heavy wires. Some solenoids have one terminal, others two. The ones with one terminal ground through the frame of the solenoid, and the single terminal would be the positive one. If you have two terminals, then one is ground (negative) and the other positive. You need to connect to the one that doesn't ground to the frame.

If jumping from the battery to the solenoid causes it to crank over, then you have a problem with the start circuit on the tractor. If the procedure doesn't do anything, then the starter or solenoid is bad (or your battery is shot). You can bridge the main terminals on the solenoid to bypass the solenoid entirely (and all the safety systems for that matter) and see if the starter is good. I built a "jump start switch" for at work with a heavy duty momentary push button switch and wires with alligator clips on the end for just this purpose.

Remember, the battery may show 12v, but that doesn't mean its good. That battery may be dropping to 9v or below when you try to crank it. Also, check the inline fuse in the power system. Its usually a blade type fuse somewhere between the battery and the key switch. Had a Cub Cadet tractor that wouldn't start last year. Pulled the fuse, popped it back in and it cranked right up. Had a corroded connection at the fuse that was causing issues.

__________________
'76 IH 1066 Turbo Diesel, '73 IH 766 Diesel, '72 IH 574 Utility Gas, '56 IH 350 Utility Gas, '46 Farmall H Gas, '08 Bobcat Toolcat 5600 Turbo

Nobody puts that "C" word in front of MY International!

chinmusic8

Wholey schnickes!! I think we've actually figured it out!!!! Seems the solenoid was the problem. I arched over the solenoid contacts and it started turnin over. Gonna try replacing it and see what happens. I'll make sure and all ya'll know how it turns out.
Just wanna let ya'll know how much I appreciate the help!!!!!

wjjones

Your Welcome these guys are full of information..

chinmusic8

Well, swapped out the solenoid for a new one (Briggs & Strat, 4 terminal). No luck, but the lights are working now and I can hear a click in the front of the engine when the starter key is in the on position. Also, I can still arch the solenoid and it fires right up. Now looking at the starter switch. I've gone so far as to check the clutch connector now and that seems fine. Any ideas before I get the new starter switch?

chinmusic8

I did notice a lower than 12 volt reading on the solenoid(off the white wire going to the Clutch /Brake.... Not sure if that means anything, reading was like 11.80v,as oppossed to the 12.50v into the solenoid (new and old one).

wjjones

Ignition switch or dirt in the ignition switch keeping it from getting contact you are loosing the start position on the switch. I would say the wiring is loose, corroded, or the ignition switch itself is bad.

dangeroustoys56

Ah, the old electrical gremlins again.... sounds like the ign switch is due for replacement.

Last year i had to change the original OEM ign switch on my 29 year old 1982 dynamark - cause the whole inside of it just fell apart - shows how good the old stuff was made.


It doesnt make sense that the seat switch isnt part of the start circuit- after all for saftey the driver should be in the seat for it to actually start - otherwise why bother adding it in the first place?

leb1264

please post the problem. I am having the identical same problem. with my lgt2554. I can start it jumping across the solenoid and runs fine but if i shut it off it wont start back. The hour reader is not lit. I have replaced the Solenoid, and key starter switch still nothing. I am stumped on this one.. I have check all the safety switches. The seat switch, the clutch switch still nothing. WHen i switch it on i can hear the fuel pump click but thats it. I found a Voltage regulator mounted to the motor. It gets 12v from the switch and then sends it back up to the switch i think. That could possible be the problem. Help!

wjjones

I hate to ask but is the pto button pushed in? If so it sounds like a safety switch keeping the engine from starting because the fuel solenoid still clicks...this means you are getting power but not to the starter..

chowdahed

Newbie here at Tractor forum.
Have a 2005 8 speed Manual GT2254. I thought I had a pain in the a*s problem on a restart too. Realized that it won't start if - 1) I was not in seat,Safety switch that I later bypassed 2) PTO was Engaged and 3) I had to fully depress Brake/clutch pedal. If any of these were not in proper it would not turn over or start.
I don't know if the hydros have the same safety switches but that is what it takes to start my manual transmission Husky.

chinmusic8

It's looking like it's the starter/key switch. I haven't replaced it yet, but I've been 'jumping' it off the solenoid and it's started getting to the point where I either have to giggle the key in the off position to stop it or engage the PTO and step up off the seat... So, I feel pretty good thinking it's the starter switch. However, keep the ideas coming.... I I can't use it maybe someone else can.

wjjones

I have heard of these ignition switches going out sometimes so maybe that would be a good place to start.. It seems kinda sure that it is most likely the switch though..

Bill Kapaun

There should be a WHITE wire going to a SMALL terminal on the solenoid.
When 12V is applied to that, the solenoid should engage.

Simple way to test a solenoid BEFORE replacing it.

That also means, to test the " crank system" from the key switch, the WHITE wire should have 12V at the various safety switches when the key is in the crank position.

A 12V test light works great when you don't have 3 hands.