I own a Hus YTH 1542 w/ B&S 15HP Crown Series motor and Hydro Gear 166768 (314-0510) transaxel.
I recently had the electric PTO go out on me, burned a bearing, so i replaced it, figured while I was doing stuff I would replace the engine gaskets to stop the oil leaks. Also my front tires kept going flat and the tread was getting low on all 4 so I figured i'd get 4 new tires.
Replaced the PTO and gaskets, everything runs great now, except I can't figure where to connect one small black wire on the front right of the engine (it connects to the connector that runs over to the fuel pump, and now the engine won't turn off unless I idle it all the way down when turning off the ignition (any ideas would be great but not a huge problem, but i mention in just incase its related to my real problem, see below)
So, when i was taking the rear wheels off, i had to be pretty liberal with the force i used to get them off as the PO didn't use anti-seize and they were all stuck. Then after I put the new tires back on i realized that the tractor rolls forward and back real easy, regardless of if the brake is on or not, and the tarnsaxel won't engage to make the tractor go in either forward or reverse. the belts are all tight and spin correctly and all that, and when the rear is off the ground it won't spin the tires either, i also noticed when i spin one tire, the other tire spins in the opposite direction, which i thought was funny... I've looked under and it doesn't seem like anything is caught up on the brake rotor or anything, i am wondering if i somehow knocked something loose inside the transaxel when i wacked on the tire... i looked at the parts diagram for the axel but its not making a lot of sense to me at this point, any ideas of where i should look would be appreciated. it ran fine before also, so it wasn't a pre-existing problem. Thanks
i cleaned a bunch of dirt out from around the brake rotor, i got the rotor to stop when the brake was engaged, but the wheels still turned. but when i the brake wasn't engaged i turned the rotor by hand and the wheels spun...
Its very possible something broke inside the transmission if you pounded on the axles with a lot of force. First, check to see if your dump valve may have gotten released. There should be a lever or pull that you can move to make the unit easier to push when its not running. They are usually towards the rear of the machine, either at the back, underneath in the rear, or under the seat. If that doesn't do it, then you'll probably have to remove and disassemble the transmission to see what broke. You didn't tip the unit on its side by chance when you were working on it? Doing so could allow air into the hydraulic system in the trans. If you did, then block up the rear of the unit so the wheels are off the ground and work the hydrostatic control lever back and forth slowly to work the air out.
As for that black wire, do you have a picture of it in relation to the engine? Sounds almost like your ignition kill wire or a ground wire for the switch maybe. If I could see it, I might have a better idea of what wire you are referring to.
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The wire was the kill/ground for the spark plug, hooked it up this morning when i looked closer at the coil and saw the tab underneath it, it now shuts down like it should.
The dump valve, yea its at the back, and it doesn't matter if its in or out, it rolls easy either way. I didn't tip the tractor on its side no, at one point i tipped it way back, held the brake and pushed it up so that i could look under at the blades, but i am pretty sure that didn't do it as i have done that before to change blades. I'll try working the hydrostatic control lever anyway b/c hell that'd be much easier than tearing into the tranny.... thanks.
I followed the purging procedure in the manual, working the lever back and forth 5-6 times with the bypass (dump valve) open and then again with it closed with the rear wheels jacked up. I got the wheels to spin forward and back when i put the control forward and back, but not with much force, it definitely wouldn't have moved the tractor. But when I checked the oil level it was fine, at the top. that makes me think that nothing inside it busted, or it wouldn't move at all right? unless i just knocked a few gears loose and now they don't mesh up very well so they can't get good grab on each other? maybe?
Well i thoguht i had the prob pegged, when i opened it up the brake shaft wasn't lining up and wasn't in all the way, i put it all back together but still no joy, realized later the the shaft prob'ly just pulled out when i split the cases. so its back on the bench draining right now, we'll see when i open it again.
broke it all the way down today, nothing jumped out at me as being out of place or inoperable, and everything passed inspection as per the manual, so i buttoned it all back up and am letting the gasket set, we'll see if i works when i fill it back up...
nope. still nothing, no movement of the axles at all... the only thing I didn't break down was the center section/filter assembly, everything else was just gears, shafts, pistons, bearings and springs... so its got to be something in there right? but its so far removed from the axles i don't see how my hitting the wheel with any amount of force would jar something loose in there... doesn't make sense, and the odds that something in there would go out at the exact same time as my PTO... i mean come on...
I did actually have a missing axle key when I took the one tire off, but right now i don't have the tires on, i've just put the transaxle back on and left the tires off to see if i could get any movement at all at the axles when the tractor was put into forward or reverse with the engine running.
The only other thought I had was that maybe when i put the engine back together, i wasn't getting pro speed to work the transaxe, says input needs to be b/w 1800-3000, but i can't imagine i'm not within the ballpark enough to be in tolerance from that aspect, i mean i don't have a tach hooked up to the mower, but i sure sounds like its running at/near where it was before...