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Old 04-16-2010, 11:49 AM   #1
tractor beam
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Gas cans and frustration!

So I use one of those new spring loaded nozzle gas cans that allow you to try and hold up a 5 gallon can full of diesel' plus use an additional 3rd hand to hold open the nozzle while you use your 4th hand to menuver a pan under the drip stream. Is there a source you use for a decent fuel container where one can just pour without all the agony of stupid? I was looking into getting a couple jerry cans, but the moment you inquire of them, they suddenly become solid gold as the price jumps up, plus you have the rust issue. What do you use to fill up the fuel in your tractors?


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Old 04-17-2010, 11:44 AM   #2
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I just use the regular plastic 5-gallon fuel cans, & take the spout off. I have a large funnel with the screen in the bottom to pour into. (I'll sometimes fill a 2 1-2 gallon can first, so I don't have to hold that full can so high for so long!)
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Old 04-17-2010, 04:43 PM   #3
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I go to farm sales and buy real gas cans.

Whoever invented that worthless piece of CR^P spring loaded thing needs to be drug out back and shot - twice. Same goes for the moron who mandated the "ventless" pile of S**T.

Niether of those individuals are worthly of life beyond what they have already reached.
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Old 04-18-2010, 10:49 AM   #4
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I go to farm sales and buy real gas cans.

Whoever invented that worthless piece of CR^P spring loaded thing needs to be drug out back and shot - twice. Same goes for the moron who mandated the "ventless" pile of S**T.

Niether of those individuals are worthly of life beyond what they have already reached.
Every time I fuel up, I get really p'ed. Fuel running down my arm. 15 minutes just to get the 5 gallons in the tank. Are these guys for freakin' real? I thought I was the only one! More info, please, Fordfarm, on where you're going to get these cans you speak of.........Are you talking about used, vintage cans?
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Old 04-18-2010, 11:51 AM   #5
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It seems like there are always good, used cans at farm sales. I buy them and use the spouts if nothing else. I've found that some of the old spouts WILL fit the new cans. Plastic or metal, I'll buy them and use them as long as they don't have the mickey mouse spring loaded spouts on them.
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Old 04-18-2010, 02:26 PM   #6
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It seems like there are always good, used cans at farm sales. I buy them and use the spouts if nothing else. I've found that some of the old spouts WILL fit the new cans. Plastic or metal, I'll buy them and use them as long as they don't have the mickey mouse spring loaded spouts on them.
What about using steel containers such as the old Jerry cans in terms of rust and diesel fuel. I had a fellow tell me that the rust would quickly destroy the injectors, but wouldn't the 2 filters my tractor has, protect against such damage? Should I just stick with the plastic style jugs?
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Old 04-18-2010, 04:14 PM   #7
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If you have diesel fuel in them they won't rust. If you are worried about it, use a sealer on them. The only way they will rust is if they are exposed to moisture.
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:14 AM   #8
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Fuel Cans and Rules:
1 A plastic gas can works best in preventing contamination.
2 A metal can works best filtered because rust will become an issue.
3 If using metal, dump the complete container when possible because a partially filled container has so much internal surface area to form moisture condensate when stored for a couple of cool nights.
3. If using plastic or metal use a cheap moisture preventative additive to cause the water in your gas to burn like the gas and also clean injectors or carburettors.
4. Minimize, tops off the gas cans, to prevent moisture from the air, getting inside the gas can.
5. Realize that both your cans and your gas tank, if metal especially has the ability to liquify the moisture condensate on the inside walls just because you occasionally have to remove the tops. Even in the driest climates of New Mexico where I live this moisture phenomena is true, so expect water when you don't think it can be there!
6. Realize that diesel suffers from the same phenomena of moisture build-up but the rust may form less on the cans.
From smarterthanafox who has cleaned many rust plugged injectors and fuel systems due to not learning these facts early on.
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:49 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Smarterthanfox View Post
Fuel Cans and Rules:
1 A plastic gas can works best in preventing contamination.
2 A metal can works best filtered because rust will become an issue.
3 If using metal, dump the complete container when possible because a partially filled container has so much internal surface area to form moisture condensate when stored for a couple of cool nights.
3. If using plastic or metal use a cheap moisture preventative additive to cause the water in your gas to burn like the gas and also clean injectors or carburettors.
4. Minimize, tops off the gas cans, to prevent moisture from the air, getting inside the gas can.
5. Realize that both your cans and your gas tank, if metal especially has the ability to liquify the moisture condensate on the inside walls just because you occasionally have to remove the tops. Even in the driest climates of New Mexico where I live this moisture phenomena is true, so expect water when you don't think it can be there!
6. Realize that diesel suffers from the same phenomena of moisture build-up but the rust may form less on the cans.
From smarterthanafox who has cleaned many rust plugged injectors and fuel systems due to not learning these facts early on.
Living in a small town is a real plus sometimes! I stepped into a local hardware store and located, still on the shelf, 3 of the older style gas cans that have the tops that actually function. I also discovered that you can buy "for diesel" storage cans that have the original style spouts that actually work. These containers are colored yellow, to designate "diesel" only. Just a heads up to any other tractor bretheren who are sick of the stupidity too!
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:35 PM   #10
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back when i worked for my uncle, i had to go to town to get diesel for the 4440. well we used a big ass funnel and 5 gallon hydralic oil buckets, the kind with the spouts on them. once you get them on the funnel, they work great, but its easier said than done.
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Old 01-15-2011, 08:32 AM   #11
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I've spilled more diesel and kerosene in the last 3 years with these new 'safe' caps than I have my entire life prior. I cussed the regulatory idiot that mandated these last week as I cleaned up yet another kero spill.

So who knows someone that has a plastics injection mold company? Seems that there is a real need for a spout that 'converts' gas/diesel/kero cans to 'water' cans. I mean really, once you put one of those kind of free pouring caps on, it wouldn't be safe to use the container for flammable liquids

In the meantime, on the ventless plastic cans, a drilled hole and synthetic rubber stopper in the top opposite the pour spout works just fine.
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Old 01-15-2011, 09:57 AM   #12
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Already did it!
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Old 01-15-2011, 02:41 PM   #13
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Same here
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Old 01-15-2011, 03:46 PM   #14
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I hate those new cans

I use the old time REAL metal gas cans
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:10 AM   #15
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Guess I need to get out more.....I have NO IDEA of what you guys are talking about I still have the plastic pull out spouts that for the most part work fine for me.

I do have one of those funky spouts with the lever that you have to hit the thumb button then hold the lever down to get fuel is that the ones your talking about ? if so I have little trouble with it.

I do have two 5 gallon cans that have no vent but the other two are vented.
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Old 01-16-2011, 11:06 AM   #16
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Guess I need to get out more.....I have NO IDEA of what you guys are talking about I still have the plastic pull out spouts that for the most part work fine for me.

I do have one of those funky spouts with the lever that you have to hit the thumb button then hold the lever down to get fuel is that the ones your talking about ? if so I have little trouble with it.

I do have two 5 gallon cans that have no vent but the other two are vented.
These cans made today have a spring loaded spout that must be pulled back to pour. If you have a filler neck, as I do that is in excess of 4 feet off the ground, you have to not only hold the 5 gallons of fuel up in the air, with one hand, while pulling the nozzle back with the other, while an aggrivating intermediate trickle of fuel goes in the tank, followed by long pauses of nothingness as the can tries to suck in air to displace the escaping fuel, while you wait. Then there's the steady stream of fuel running down your arm and dripping off your elbow the whole while. It's fun!
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Old 01-16-2011, 01:50 PM   #17
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Hmmm....doesnt sound like fun to me......or even something I'd deal with more than once.

The one funky, goofy spout I have with the lever does actually allow air into the can so it works just OK with the two non vented cans I have.

4 feet is a bit high to be pouring fuel, the highest thing that takes gas here is about 3 feet and those are our motorcycles.


Maybe your using the type of fuel cans we have at work.

Steel with the little round spring loaded cap and the floppy handle you have to pull back to open the can.They have funnels that fit around the round cap base and make it very easy to pour with.
We have 2 gallons cans like that and use them to fuel up the concrete saw and they work very well even without the funnel but the funnel makes it a breeze.
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:30 AM   #18
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I have the normal plastic gas 'cans' 3 5 galon ones and two 2 galon ones ( for my 2 cycle weedwacker) - actually one i found at the end of the street where we used to live- i picked it up, filled it with water to test it, since it didnt leak i called it a new freebie gas can.
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:06 AM   #19
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Years ago, like 20 or so I bought and still have two steel sto-&-go cans that are I think 1-1/2 gallons and have a tool box storage area that clips onto the bottom of the gas can.

I dont really use them since I dont run a chainsaw or weed whip and that is what they would be best suited for.Probably rusty inside now.
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Old 01-17-2011, 05:04 PM   #20
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These cans made today have a spring loaded spout that must be pulled back to pour. If you have a filler neck, as I do that is in excess of 4 feet off the ground, you have to not only hold the 5 gallons of fuel up in the air, with one hand, while pulling the nozzle back with the other, while an aggrivating intermediate trickle of fuel goes in the tank, followed by long pauses of nothingness as the can tries to suck in air to displace the escaping fuel, while you wait. Then there's the steady stream of fuel running down your arm and dripping off your elbow the whole while. It's fun!
They have a piece of plastic sticking out on the spout right? That goes on the lip of what you are filling, press down, no hand required, and then just pull up and it stops.

I love mine, hey have cut out my spillage issues.


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