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Old 07-10-2011, 04:25 AM   #1
TecumsehBriggs
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Recent '99 Yard Machine purchase...

This is my second time writing this. I don't know what happened, but as I typed, the spacebar acted as a backspace button & deleted the next letter in line. I re-booted, then got kicked off the internet. When I restarted a second time, I had some updates to install. Maybe that was it, I don't know. Anyhoo...

Picked up a 1997 (thought it was a '99) MTD/Yard Machine, 18.5 Briggs Twin, 42" mulching deck, hydro trans. I bought it knowing there was a problem with the engine stalling when the blades were engaged. I pressure washed everything awhile back & replaced a hood pivot bolt that was missing so she would at least look presentable. She sat while I worked on the '99 Murray that I sold recently, then the Craftsman. I'm just about finished with the Craftsman (progress posted in the appropriate section), so I started on the MTD before the lights went out.

I removed the deck & immediately found out why the engine stalled when engaging the deck. The spindles are rusted fast! There's also evidence of several generations of rodent nesting. YUCK! Took the deck to my outdoor workbench & used PB Blaster on all the nuts, bolts & spindles. I doubt the spindles are salvageable, but at least they're available & relatively inexpensive. I also found a broken lever for the brake pedal. Guess I'll have to take that off & weld it back together. Not sure what is loose in the steering, but as I continue to go down the line, I'll find it. So far a tie rod end is worn out...

The rear fenders & battery box are rusty, but I plan to do a paint job on this mower like I did to the Murray. Found some machinery gray paint that matches to a tee. The battery found its way to the Murray, since I couldn't afford to go out & buy one right away. I'll need one soon, though. After I sold the Murray, it freed up some cash to fund the Craftsman project. Hopefully, I can sell the Craftsman soon so I can finish off the MTD. I plan to paint the grille with the same color paint as the Craftsman grille (black metallic Krylon Fusion). I really like the way it looks. Pics to follow, I promise.

Sorry about the long-winded posts, but I had alot of caffeine today. I find working on these to be like therapy. I was in a severe depression for a long time after my dog Bear died. I still miss him & always will. Alot of things went to crap around the house, including my 1996 Central Park, 18/46. She's in good hands now. TractorWrangler has spent alot of time (and a few bucks) to get her going again. from the pictures I've seen, she's back on the road (or lawn) again.

Good night for now. TB



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Old 07-10-2011, 10:43 AM   #2
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Priced the deck spindle assemblies today. So much for "relatively inexpensive"...Willard's has them for $66.95 each! YIKES! I've even seen them for more than that. Found some on ebay for $36 each including blades. I'll probably go that route. Maybe I'll get lucky & the old ones will magically free up...
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:04 PM   #3
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If you can manage to free them up,you can match the bearings at most NAPA,or car quest outlets.Try this trick,to free up the bearings:get a farmer's syringe from a farm-supply,and use the needle-type grease injector on it.fill it with PB Blaster,and inject it into the bearing,betweenthe spindle,and the seal lip.Then,just work it back and forth,and use some more PB.This has worked for me several times.Make sure,after freeing them up,you inject bearing grease into the bearings.Good luck.
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Old 07-11-2011, 04:18 PM   #4
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Here are some "before" shots of the Yard Machine, deck removed. Some rust issues, but not bad.
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Old 07-13-2011, 10:21 PM   #5
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Took the rear fender assembly off today. I have plans to de-rust & paint it, along with the rest of the mower. Checked over all the linkage; found a broken spring on the drive belt idler pulley which forced the pulley into the frame, effectively ruining it (need a pulley, too), a couple springs that weren't even installed & a broken brake lockout bracket. Now I have to track down the part numbers so I can replace the defective parts. BTW, it's a model 695. More to come...

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Old 07-13-2011, 10:51 PM   #6
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I wish I had the time to work(play) on my machinery as much as I need to, I am jealous of you TecumsehBriggs.
I have to travel 70 miles to get to my property before I can do anything and then only on weekends (at the moment)

I think I will come and visit all you guys on my next holiday so I can play over there!!!!

Cheers
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Old 07-14-2011, 09:08 AM   #7
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Come on over, by all means. I'll even make an amusement park ride called "Tinker On TB's Tractor". I'll provide the tools, you provide the labor. It's a win/win situation! Hours of fun for the whole family...

Found the part numbers & prices...about $47 with shipping & that doesn't include the deck spindles I need, which would cost another $72. That's $119. I could save about $20 by buying a used complete deck for $50. A few cans of spray paint...$15. Considering I paid $150 for this unit, I'll have $300 into it. Not alot of profit margin when I sell it. Well, that just figures!

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Old 07-14-2011, 02:27 PM   #8
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Pop just went thru having to buy a mandrel assembly for my white LT12- we bot an original OEM style mandrel from a guy selling tractor parts- then he ordered a 'new' mandrel from where i originally bot the tractor from - both were around $60 - which was the same price years ago when i bot one for it .

MTD's seem to have the metal sleeve oblong when berings go bad ( one style of MTD mandrel) - even putting new berings in they still dont tighten up.

Ive managed to 'reuse' a couple rusted berings - they were the type with a plastic side cover- i pryed the cover off, sprayed em with carb cleaner, then repacked em with heavy duty wheel bering grease- they lasted another couple years.

Ive come across two different mandrel types- ones the type of all metal- it bolts together - the other is a cast aluminum housing - my 96 MTD has those- the rest use the metal type.


Sounds like my 97 mastercut- the original deck had a huge hole in it with bad mandrels- i picked up a clunker MTD few years back for $25 with a recently rebuilt deck ( new blades- fresh paint) - i put that deck on instead.
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:14 AM   #9
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Update...

Found a used rear fender for $10. It's red, but I found some Machinery Gray paint that is a perfect match. I'll have to cut a slot in the right fender for the shifter, but that's within my scope of abilities. I already have it marked out, ready to cut.

Found a used spring, for $2, a new pulley for $10 & both spindles with blades for $36 each. Still need the brake lockout bracket, though. Funny thing, both spindles were frozen soild. After a week of 90 degree heat & repeated soakings with PB Blaster, both spindles freed up! I was amazed. I'm not going to change them at this time, just the blades. Maybe I'll sell them or just save them for future use.

Sunday I cleaned & painted the deck gloss black. Came out nice. Sure was hot...

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Old 07-19-2011, 10:21 PM   #10
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Today I installed the drive idler pulley & its spring. What a PITA! Turns out, it's way easier if you remove the variable drive pulley, install the idler, then re-install the VD pulley. It also helps if you remove the seat assembly. The spring went in with the help of a Vise Grip. Figure it out as you go...

If it wasn't so danged hot & humid, I'd start on the paint. Lots of peeling paint & some rust underneath. Gonna get the undercoat treatment, then some new Machinery Gray paint on top & semi-gloss black on the chassis as needed.

The deck is finished. Painted it Sunday, touched up a few spots & installed the new mulching blades today. It'll have to wait until I get the paintwork done & install a new brake lockout bracket before it gets installed.

After that, an oil change, new spark plugs & a new air filter. Soon to be whole again...

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Old 07-23-2011, 06:44 AM   #11
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Yeah I had to take the back of the white apart to get to everything - same for my 97 mastercut in the shed when i dropped the transaxle - its a pain but easier to get at things .

Itll make it easier to paint the chassis tho .....
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Old 07-26-2011, 09:43 PM   #12
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I straightened out the brake lockout bracket today. Came out ok. Tomorrow I'll dig out the welder & see if I can weld it back together without goofing it up. Would it be better to arc weld it, or MIG?

Hopefully tomorrow I can also start on the rear fender. I have to cut the opening for the shifter, prime & paint. I also have to paint the hood, footplates & chassis.
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Old 07-27-2011, 08:52 PM   #13
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Brake lockout bracket...

Mig welded the brake lockout bracket today. This thing was bent at a 45 degree angle & snapped off at the spring hole, twisted at the end with the mounting stud & slightly bent where the brake release rod goes. Took a few tries & a couple adjustments; had to locate my spare welding tips which was no easy task, but in the end it worked. I saved myself $10 + shipping on a new one. I even got a coat of gloss black paint on it. For some reason it was painted green...on a gray tractor...Now (maybe tomorrow) I can start prepping the chassis & body for paint & reinstall the deck a couple days after the paint dries.
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:46 AM   #14
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Installed the bracket today, put a battery in her & took her for a drive for the first time since I bought her. Not a bad runner. I drilled the holes for the reverse cutout safety switch & the holes for the shifter trim plate, then painted it top & bottom with machinery gray, removed the mask from the rear decal. Looks great! I also had to Mig weld 2 small cracks in the rear fender. I'm getting better at it, I guess. I removed the hood & side covers to prep for paint. I sanded the rusty areas on the chassis, masked the decals & painted it semigloss black. I also oiled all the pivot points while I had it all apart.

While I was oiling everything, I took apart my '96 Ranch King & oiled her up, too. Same machine, pretty much. Different sheet metal.
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:04 PM   #15
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Saturday & Sunday were "work on the tractor" days. Today, I disassembled the grille, hood & side panels; masked off decals; removed rust (quite a bit); primed & undercoated, ready for paint. Hopefully tomorrow (Monday) I can paint the remaining panels. The battery box is undercoated & painted, ready to go back in.

I also bought some satin black Krylon Fusion for the grille. I was going to use the metallic textured paint I used on the Craftsman, but I wanted to do something different. I'll have to decide if I want to swap the grille with one from a "race mower" I picked up on Saturday. It has a good grille. Mine has pieces broken off where it meets the frame. The quick fix is to change it. I would then have to repair 2 grilles before I could use them on future projects...
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:04 PM   #16
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Today I reinstalled all the body parts (hood, side panels, grille from another unit & rear fender) & touched up the paint as needed. So freaking hot I showered 3 times; once after I woke up & twice after working outside. I washed the rubber footplate covers & reinstalled them, too. Removed the masking tape. Wow, what a difference! Looks like a new machine. The starter decided to take a dump, so I removed one from a different unit & will install tomorrow. I'll post pics tomorrow, I'm beat.
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:13 PM   #17
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Changed the starter today, started right up. While watching the belts as she ran, I noticed the idler pulley jumping around like crazy. I removed the drive belt & found a very worn spot that was causing the malfunction. So, I picked up some parts; a used deck belt, pulley guards & a choke cable for another unit I'm working on, and a drive belt for this one.

Found a guy who repairs small engines & equipment fulltime and sells parts. We probably talked about tractors & stuff for about 2 hours. He offered me a couple of garden tractors he was going to fix, but would rather just sell. We'll see...
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Old 08-06-2011, 01:05 AM   #18
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Looks sharp- fresh paint makes things look tons better.

Yeah those plastic MTD grilles crack easily - ive used flat metal on the inside to fix them- one i sorta liked ( by the PO) - they used a piece of metal kindorf ( square metal with perforations and one side is open - electricians/plumbers use it to hang pipes in the ceilings )- i painted it black and it sort of looks like a mini air dam.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:48 AM   #19
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Replaced the drive belt Saturday, not too bad. Installed the deck & adjusted it,replaced both spark plugs & went for a mow. Nice quiet machine, smooth ride. Still need to fine-tune the deck adjustment, then change the air filter. Seems kinda finicky...

Got a guy interested in it. Called a couple times, but he wants to trade 2 of his older tractors & "maybe some cash". I told him I could "maybe give him $100 apiece" for his & accept $500 cash. I just don't need a crapload of tractors sitting around. He was thinking quite differently, I guess. I sent him a few pics via email, but haven't heard anything back. I'll finish adjusting everything, then take some pics & post it on craigslist. That's actually where I found it, but nowhere near the condition she's in now!

Here's a pic of the finished machine before the deck got installed.
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:32 PM   #20
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Looks brand new- i have ( well its in pieces now) a '96 MTD that's exactally the same color /deck/motor - mine was $50- motor ran, but tractor was a serious rustbucket.

Ive done a deal like that one guy - i had a rebuilt 90's murray RER for sale - was near mint- cept a dull spot where gas spilled in the back - swapped a decent motor on, hooked up the ign switch ( PO tore all that out) - shined it up and sat it out front for a reasonable $300 - guy stops by and said he'd give me his broken tractor and cash for it - so i said " okay $200 and your tractor - its yours" - he brot his broken 99 murray over - gave me the cash and the deal was done . I had to swap a 13.5HP briggs on his tractor and new blades ( motor had a thrown rod) - had it mowing 3 days later.


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