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OleGrandWizard · 01-23-2006, 06:51 AM

I am in the midst in the next few months to construct a new workshop building. My last building which was on one of my properties was destroyed in Katrina. I would like something large enough not to outgrow -- thinking in the neighborhood of at least 20 or 30' by 40 or so. I could use some good ideas and pictures of all of the workshops you have and what might work best. Was think either 2 large metal barn doors from floor to ceiling (would like about 10 foot ceilings at minimum with much larger peak at roof) - probably a wood frame building with metal covering.

Show me some pictures!

Glenn9643 · 01-23-2006, 07:52 AM

What are your uses for the workshop? Mechanic work? Woodworker? Painter?
All of the above?

Fordfarm · 01-23-2006, 07:59 AM

Well - I like to go the cheap route! I built an open side shed15"32" for under $40. The ONLY thing I'd do different (if I had the cash), is to buy new tin. I used old, used barn tin. It is basically a pole barn, but instead of 2x6 stringer os the sides, I used pallets. Using these, you actually end up with a STRONGER wall (stop by and swing on it!). It is also easy to insulate (I'm not going to, though) and put up drywall or OSB on the inside (didn't do that either). Wife's dad built 1/2 his house like this in the early 70's and it's better than the other half! Cover mine with some good tin, and you'd have a right purty shed!

olds · 01-23-2006, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Glenn9643
What are your uses for the workshop? Mechanic work? Woodworker? Painter?
All of the above?

Welcome Glenn!
Good to see another LA coonass on the board! Along with several others including Jodyand, CatDaddy and myself...proud to be from the Katrina state. Well, MS too!

Just found out on a side note that the crawfish season will be horrible this year...only expecting about 20% production and those will be >$3/lb. Apparently far too much salt water got into the marshes and inland areas and destroyed most of the farms in the area. Some 5000 seasonal jobs are toast and looks like no crawfish parties this year....well, maybe one big expensive one!

Glenn9643 · 01-23-2006, 11:35 AM

Thanks. I'd already noticed several on the forums from LA.
Speaking of the salt water, looks as if it's a big problem with the rice and cane growers too.

OleGrandWizard · 01-24-2006, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Glenn9643
What are your uses for the workshop? Mechanic work? Woodworker? Painter?
All of the above?

Thanks for the replies. Mostly general storage and tractor storage, some rebuilding/painting = you know general shop use.
I would like a decent workbench and shelving storage area. Thinking of new and different ideas to make it nice. Maybe like 2-story storage units, really good interior and exterior lighting, tons of outlets, maybe a central steel I-beam with hoist for engine work and hanger for painting?

Any ideas?

Glenn9643 · 01-25-2006, 09:47 AM

Sorry, but I don't have pictures available right now.

My shop is 24x40 and 10' ceilings. Rather than sliding doors or rollup I built double swingout doors for automototive access and the clearance is absolutely minimal for my MF1455v tractor w/canopy. Be careful of this, because you might end up with higher clearance requirements down the road. I think some of the small cab tractors are 106" in case you might ever go there.
I added 24x24 drop sheds on each end of the shop, a 40x16 on the front, and a 40x22 on the back for additional covered storage... golf cart, mower, implements, boat, trailers, etc.
Doesn't appear that you intend to finish the inside? I finished with sheetrock and plenty of insulation, but most of my endeavors involve making sawdust.
I built shelving brackets for 24" deep shelves around the perimeter of the shop at 8' height, plenty strong to support about whatever I can get up there. It's handy because you can see it from the floor but stuff is not in your way.
For lighting I bought 8' flourescent high-output lighting at Lowe's. Don't remember the specifics, but they're designed to come on and work adequately in coolers. No problem with them coming on in cooler weather and they give good light. A little more expensive but worth it.
I built a workbench/storage cabinet along the wall about 24'long just inside the double doors for storage of "mechanic" type tools and equipment so it would be near the vehicle I brought through the door.
120v receptacles around the perimeter of the building inside at 8', and at least one on each exterior wall. 220v outlet for welder near the double doors so I can move the welder outside if needed. Spot other 220v where you think you might need for specific applications such as A/C, compressor, etc. I would run the 220v circuits with wire suitable for 50amp even if the final application might not require it. You can change the receptacle to fit.
Put your compressor outside under a shed and plumb the air through the wall and make drops as needed.
Run water when you're digging trenches and at least have a sink to clean up. Speaking of trenches, will you ever need telephone, networking cables, TV coax? Run adequate wiring in large conduit while your ditch is open. Generally the cabling is cheap.
What about outside lighting? I installed all my outside lighting at the shop on 3-way switches so I can turn them off/on from the back porch at the house or when I go into the shop. This was to help with security... If I think I hear something I can turn on lights from the house that will illuminate any or all sides of the shop and in addition I have lighting going to and from. Mine is about 100' from the house.

Live Oak · 01-25-2006, 10:14 AM

Let me add my welcome to Tractor Forum as well Glenn! We'll be looking forward to the pictures or your shop.

Archdean · 01-25-2006, 10:31 AM

This isn't near as big as you fellows are talking about!! It's just the last one I built and needed to make it fit my lake property !!
Maybe the doors will give you an idea,,,,Make sure you measure your ROPS height!!

Needed a Place for my Yard Thingys so here it is in progressive order.

This link will bring up a slide show and you play it like a VCR at the top , it contains 30 slides!!

Slide Show Here

OleGrandWizard · 01-25-2006, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Glenn9643
Sorry, but I don't have pictures available right now.

My shop is 24x40 and 10' ceilings. Rather than sliding doors or rollup I built double swingout doors for automototive access and the clearance is absolutely minimal for my MF1455v tractor w/canopy. Be careful of this, because you might end up with higher clearance requirements down the road. I think some of the small cab tractors are 106" in case you might ever go there.
I added 24x24 drop sheds on each end of the shop, a 40x16 on the front, and a 40x22 on the back for additional covered storage... golf cart, mower, implements, boat, trailers, etc.
Doesn't appear that you intend to finish the inside? I finished with sheetrock and plenty of insulation, but most of my endeavors involve making sawdust.
I built shelving brackets for 24" deep shelves around the perimeter of the shop at 8' height, plenty strong to support about whatever I can get up there. It's handy because you can see it from the floor but stuff is not in your way.
For lighting I bought 8' flourescent high-output lighting at Lowe's. Don't remember the specifics, but they're designed to come on and work adequately in coolers. No problem with them coming on in cooler weather and they give good light. A little more expensive but worth it.
I built a workbench/storage cabinet along the wall about 24'long just inside the double doors for storage of "mechanic" type tools and equipment so it would be near the vehicle I brought through the door.
120v receptacles around the perimeter of the building inside at 8', and at least one on each exterior wall. 220v outlet for welder near the double doors so I can move the welder outside if needed. Spot other 220v where you think you might need for specific applications such as A/C, compressor, etc. I would run the 220v circuits with wire suitable for 50amp even if the final application might not require it. You can change the receptacle to fit.
Put your compressor outside under a shed and plumb the air through the wall and make drops as needed.
Run water when you're digging trenches and at least have a sink to clean up. Speaking of trenches, will you ever need telephone, networking cables, TV coax? Run adequate wiring in large conduit while your ditch is open. Generally the cabling is cheap.
What about outside lighting? I installed all my outside lighting at the shop on 3-way switches so I can turn them off/on from the back porch at the house or when I go into the shop. This was to help with security... If I think I hear something I can turn on lights from the house that will illuminate any or all sides of the shop and in addition I have lighting going to and from. Mine is about 100' from the house.

Sounds quite impressive Glenn! I too am looking forward to more details of your place and pictures!!! Thanks for sharing! It sounds like I can get some good ideas from you. Did you work off of a plan or design one? It sounds next to ideal for what I am looking to build here in MS.

Glenn9643 · 01-26-2006, 07:44 AM

I just drew up a rough plan, but I've done a little building...
Built my own trusses after I had the slab poured and finished. Hired out the cement finishing work. Used 12" Hardiplank siding and 29guage Galvalume roofing. Hired a couple of democrats to help with raising the trusses. Everything else was strictly my job.
Something else I didn't mention above is be sure your slab is high enough above ground elevation to prevent any water entry if possible. Before my time in this area, in I believe 1991, they had a flood that brought waters on our place to about 10" deep where my shop is located. I raised the foundation area with fill dirt about 12" so the finished floor is about 16" higher than the natural grade. This also helps to give more clearance for my dropsheds which is important in order to get the tractor underneath.

Fordfarm · 01-26-2006, 07:55 AM

Quote:

This isn't near as big as you fellows are talking about!! It's just the last one I built and needed to make it fit my lake property !!Maybe the doors will give you an idea,,,,Make sure you measure your ROPS height!!

NICE shed, Dean! How close do you get with your ROPS? Doesn't look like you have very much extra to spare!

Archdean · 01-26-2006, 08:46 AM

Thanks, I have about an inch on both doors , more if I leave the tiller or Hoe or something on the back!!

OleGrandWizard · 07-12-2006, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Glenn9643
I just drew up a rough plan, but I've done a little building...
Built my own trusses after I had the slab poured and finished. Hired out the cement finishing work. Used 12" Hardiplank siding and 29guage Galvalume roofing. Hired a couple of democrats to help with raising the trusses. Everything else was strictly my job.
Something else I didn't mention above is be sure your slab is high enough above ground elevation to prevent any water entry if possible. Before my time in this area, in I believe 1991, they had a flood that brought waters on our place to about 10" deep where my shop is located. I raised the foundation area with fill dirt about 12" so the finished floor is about 16" higher than the natural grade. This also helps to give more clearance for my dropsheds which is important in order to get the tractor underneath.

Just getting round' to building it now....do you have plans/layout
materials list or even a ROUGH APPROXIMATE cost for building this? I thank you so much in advance!

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