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Old 01-07-2006, 01:07 PM   #1
chrpmaster
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tree removal

I am slowly clearing my back woods of trees that are either dead or just in the wrong place anticipating putting in a pond in the next year of two. I have a Case SC tractor that has been a great workhorse for me but I am a novice when it comes to pulling trees so that I don't have lots of roots/stumps all over. I know its better to leave a tree taller if you want to pull it out but I was looking for pointers on the best method to pull them. I also have a backhoe, which I call my digger, pictured in my avatar that would be useful for digging out bigger ones but I want to minimize the size of the hole I have to fill when I am done. Any suggestions?



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Old 01-07-2006, 01:56 PM   #2
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What kind of trees and how large? Some of the cedar trees you can hook LOW on your 3 point and they will pull out without even cutting. Smaller (2"-3" dia) hardwoods can also be done this way. Larger stumps can be dug so they can be "cantelevered" over and broken off below ground. If they are REALLY huge, I leave the tree standing! Also, around here, the cedar and pine trees that are to big to pull, I just cut the trees as close to the ground as possible and forget the stump - in a year or so, it will rot to the point a swift kick will dislodge it!My JD Brush Hog also does wonders on the stumps!



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Old 01-07-2006, 02:10 PM   #3
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Fordfarm

they range in size from a 2" to 30" mostly hardwoods and soft maples. The real small ones I can probably pull. the bigger ones are my problem.

I am not familiar with your description of "cantilevered" what is that and how do I do it?

Any of them that come down need to come down or have died already so leaving them up isn't an option.

I have waited on some of these to rot and they are still solid. I have cut them close to the ground but they never seem to rot. At least not fast enough for me to get them out in my lifetime!

I have tried burning and grinding them with mixed results.

my question has to do with how to dig/pull them out efficently.

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Old 01-07-2006, 02:57 PM   #4
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There is no easy way for stump removal. Its either dig it up/pull it out and deal with the mess or live with the stumps or use a grinder. I usually just cut as low to ground as possible and cover with soil. The soil helps break down the wood in a few years. I have a couple I swear at every time I trip on them.
You could cut several feet above ground and pull using leverage to uproot the tree. Be careful as this can be dangerous. We don't need any more tractor flip-over accidents.
Being that you are planning a pond it might be more cost effective to contract this out to someone with a dozer for a day or two. I've seen a good man on a dozer clean out a large area that would take a tractor weeks or longer especially if its a cash deal if you know what I mean.
Either way its costly, time consuming and just a PITA.

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Old 01-07-2006, 04:00 PM   #5
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Cantelevered - cut the stump 3-4 foot high, trim the limbs off, if there are any. Dig down on one side ( downhill) to 1-3 feet below ground. Hook to tractor LOW, hook to stump high. You may have to cut some of the roots, but the stump SHOULD tip over. Like Harry said - the best way is with a dozer! With the large ones, especially. BE CAREFUL!

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Old 01-07-2006, 10:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fordfarm
................you can hook LOW on your 3 point and they will pull out.................
Chrpmaster,

I have to respectfully disagree with Fordfarm. Do not use your three point hitch to pull stumps. When you do, you are asking your tractor to flip over backwards on you and pin you to the ground.

Kinda scares me when I hear someone say “I am a novice when it comes to pulling trees” then proceed to describe how they are planning to pull stumps or trees. I don’t know how Case SC tractors are equipped, but if yours has a three point hitch do not hook to it to pull stumps. Most tractors have a swing drawbar. Hook to that, then be extra careful.

Now pay real close attention to this under no circumstances fasten one end of a chain, rope, strap or cable the top link and then fasten the other end to anything When you do this your tractor will flip over backwards on you and pin you to the ground. Lost a neighbor who did just that two years ago. He was just attempting to pull his pickup truck out of a little bog hole. He died with the tractor on top of him.
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Old 01-07-2006, 10:30 PM   #7
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John -
While I did mention 3 point in the first post, the point I was trying to get across was to hook the chain LOW on the tractor, high on the stump. This is a recommended proceedure! By 3 point, I meant the drawbar, not the top link! Sorry for any confusion! Also, it is benifical to pull downhill as opposed to uphill. You must also consider the "size of tree vs size of tractor". Most accidents occur when both of these rules are ignored. It's the old "proper tool for the job" thing! A good D-9 comes in handy once and awhile!

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Old 01-08-2006, 07:59 AM   #8
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Thanks guys for the suggestions. I agree that caution is always the correct procedure. I grew up driving tractors so I am familiar with thier operation. I will give the catilever method a try on some of the small/med sized ones and go from there.

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Old 01-08-2006, 08:06 AM   #9
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When you're done - zip on over here and help out! I got a ZILLION trees I need to get rid of!

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Old 01-08-2006, 03:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fordfarm
When you're done - zip on over here and help out! I got a ZILLION trees I need to get rid of!
I think when I get done here my beard will be so long and grey that I won't be able to mount a tractor safely!
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Old 01-08-2006, 04:25 PM   #11
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Then it would be TWO old cripples doing battle with the trees!

I decided I need a shear. Cheapest one I found was $1500 used, so I built one out of scrounged material (of course!). Bee working great, so far! The most expense was the hoses/fittings, everything else was scrounged, including the cylinder.

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Old 02-06-2006, 11:00 AM   #12
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Been grubbing the upper quarter of my 2.33 acres.
Probably have it about 70 % done.
Done it all with my BX23 and a 10 foot and a 12 foot chain.
Did saw down maybe 6 or 8 2 to 6 inch trees.
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Old 02-06-2006, 01:51 PM   #13
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For smaller trees up to about 3 or 4 inches in diameter, I use a log choker cable to pull it out of the ground but I hook the cable to the DRAW BAR............. NOT the 3 pt. hitch. The 3PH is too high up and can flip the front of the tractor up and over if too much pulling force is applied not to mention you can serverely damage your 3PH as well.

choker

You can use a smaller diameter cable for smaller stuff.

For really large trees I use a 100 ft. choker cable that I mount to the tree as high up as I can get it and the other end to the tractor draw bar. I have a trailer hitch ball mounted to the draw bar to put the cable loop on. I called Bailey's and had them custom make me a 100 ft. choker cable out of some 1/2 inch wire rope. They swaged the choker and thimbal on the end for me.

Wire Rope 1/2" 6x26 IWRC / 0.46 lbs/ft / 13.3 tons

A 100 ft. of wire rope is a royal pain to unwind but it will give you enough length to safely be out of the way of the tree when it comes down and allows you to pull on the tree at a sallow angle as is reasonably possible.

On the bigger trees, you will need a bulldozer or back hoe to dig up the roots on the opposite side of the tree you are pulling from.

Really big trees you will have to do a LOT of digging prior to pulling them down or just cut the tree as close to the ground as is safely possible and then grind up the stump with a stump grinder.

After the tree is pulled down you can cut the root ball off as close to the bottom of the tree as you can and let it dry out and the rail wash most of the mud off. Then push the root balls into a pile and burn them. The trees you can cut up into firewood or just burn. If the tree are marketable and you have a saw mill close by, you may be able to buck the logs into 9 ft. lengths or whatever length the saw mill wants and haul them to the mill and make a few bucks but I think the amount of labor and hastle won't be worth it.



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